Crankshaft Pulley Removal

[UrbanRedneckKid]

You all are nuts. It's a 20 second job. Just brace your breaker bar against a frame rail, and turn the key. Stop being sissies.

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[Rainmaker]

I know it's an older thread but it saved me a ton of frustration this weekend. Big +1 to the high gear method. We attacked this thing with air tools, breaker bars, and PB Blaster before finally blocking the wheel and putting it in 5th. Took me one good pull on a breaker bar and the thing broke loose.

Cranking the engine sounds like too many ingredients in a recipe for disaster.

Thanks y'all.

 

[Mikel89us]

I have never had much issue, we had some that were pretty tight, but we got them off without having it in a vehicle. We just take a big hammer(2-3 pound sledge usually) and smack the ratchet handle. We use our craftsmans so if it breaks we can just go to sears and replace it.

 

[tomw]

Whoever reads this far, do NOT use 5th gear. The strongest gear in the transmission is 4th or direct. The power comes in and is locked directly to the output shaft. The OD or 5th gear uses ratios that make it harder for the engine to turn the rear wheels, or actually reduced torque multiplication of the 3 lower gears, and lower than direct. Thing is, the gears are not that strong. Use 4th.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

Or just jack the back wheels off the ground and use first...but the motor will spin with the transmission in neutral regardless...so...I didn't think it would matter whatsoever...

but I guess you want some resistance there...too iffy for my liking...having your starter lock out on you would scare the carp out of anyone even attempting this in gear...

 

[Mikel89us]

But tom, the strength of the gear isn't what makes 5th work best, the resistance to the motor spinning is in fact greatest in 5th.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Still 4th is better like Tom said, the difference in the ratio between 4th and 5th is only like 10%, the difference between 4th and 1st is like 375%... that's why 1st doesn't work

In the junk yard where there wasn't a transmission, or it had an auto and I needed to get the crank pulley off I've taken off a spark plug and shoved that in the cylinder like the rope method, it worked just fine with my 24" breaker bar on the crank bolt. Other than that I usually use the starter method, just strap the breaker bar to the bottom of the passenger side frame rail and you are fine. If you want to do it the safer way on an older truck with the starter relay on the fender, remove the top terminal and short it to the power post with the key off and the truck out of gear.

 

[tomw]

I was not looking for the 'best' ratio that would keep the crank from turning as much as I was commenting on the weakness, relative, of the 4th gear straight through, and the more altered route that power/torque must pass through in 5th[OD]. Fourth is a lockup of the input shaft to the output shaft using the 'collar', while 5th uses a couple gears which do indeed lessen effective torque, but the gears are not as strong and could be damaged easier... unlikely, but possible.
If you have the owners manual, it says 'do not tow in 5th gear'. Because the gearset is designed for low-load conditions. Overdrive, cruising on flatland, easin' on down the road, etc etc etc.
tom

 

[Mikel89us]

What I've never understood, is why manufacturers don't make a 5 speed where 5th gear I direct drive with four underspeed gears...

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've wondered that too, the 6 speed truck trannies are that way with an overdrive (5th is direct). On my F350 I tow all the time in 5th, but I have to with the way it's geared, and I imagine the ZF5 is a little more stout than a M5OD

 

[Mikel89us]

It just makes so much sense to me to have the most efficient gear for the gear you will cruise in for mileage.

 

[DJ Freddy]

That's a good way to break a bolt or a foot too :-(
I'll give you the easy steps ( may be a little late but it may help some one later on )
Leave all the belts on and tight.
Spray the 4 crank pulley bolts with PB blast or another penetrating oil. Use a 10mm socket ( I think its a 10mm ? ) to LOOSEN the bolts, remove the belts and remove the 4 retaining bolts on the pulley. The pulley will still be stuck on their good but a puller is not required. DO NOT TRY AND WHACK AT IT WITH A HAMMER. All that will accomplish it damaging the pulley and your timing marks if its really stuck on there ( most are). Simply use a breaker bar against the block and the pulley to pop it right off. It wont take much force and it will pop right off.

The part that pertains directly to you:
Now you'll need to remove the pulley hub from the crank to get the shield off and so the timing belt can be slide off and back on. To do this put the truck in 1st gear and push down the E-brake. Remove the belt tensioner with a T50 torx socket. again spray her down with PB blast before hand.( removal of the tensioner arm and pulley is needed to gain clearance to the alternator pulley to do the next step) Then you will simply need to take a large pipe wrench and bite it down firmly on the FLATS toward the outer edge ( in the spaces if possible ) of the hub and rest the handle of the pipe wrench under tension so it holds its bit on the alternator pulley. Spray the crank bolt down with PB blast and let her sit a little while. Spray it down again and let her sit a little more. Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with an extension cheater pipe on the end and have at it. It will break loose. The cheater bar and breaker bar combo will do it if you put some rear behind it.

I don't trust the old start bump method at all. To many things can go wrong causing bodily harm to you, your truck or your tools IMHO.

To get the outer cover off remove the center retaining screw with a LARGE philips head screw driver then work your way around the cover releasing the tabs. After its loose and hanging there work it out towards you straight toward the core support by twisting it side ways a little and jaring it up or down as needed to slide it out. Install it the same way. At 1st you will be like " damn it ! the lip cast in to the block is stopping me from getting the belt on or off ! " LOL ! just pry the old belt out and push the new belt in. It will slip right in there with no harm to the belt with little effort if you go at it the right way. Just play with it until you hit the spot.

Using the steps above you do not have to remove the power steering, AC, brackets, Alternator, drain the coolant and remove the hoses or any of that crap.
Thats exactly how I did it on my 93 2.3L 5spd and it worked like a charm. Less work, faster job. ;-)

I almost never sign up for forums. I am however a Ranger owner and I qualify I suppose to this one. I specifically joined to thank Duane867 for the heads up getting my crank bolt off of my 1993 4 Cylinder Ranger. I had tried everything exept the pipe wrench. I wedged it in there and with some leverage I was able to remove the crank bolt and complete the timing belt project that had left me stranded. I am on disability and would not have been able to have a pro wrench do this job for me. Thanks Duane. You saved my Butt Bro!