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Crack in PLASTIC portion of radiator reparable?


I have "fixed" three radiators with JB Weld before. The first was an all metal one from a dodge truck which is probably irrelevant and the other two were on a Hyundai Excel and an Aerostar which were plastic. I've only ever done it as a quick fix and eventually replaced the radiator when I got time to hunt one down at the junkyard. If you're just looking for a temporary fix to get you to work and back for a little while then try using epoxy on it, but there is no way for anyone to tell how long it will last since nobody has ever had the same EXACT crack in their Caravan radiator and used the same EXACT epoxy that you would use. Replacing the radiator in any generation of Caravan isn't that hard, but if you take it to a "Junk Chrysler" Dealership then expect to get raped.
 
I have a couple untested ideas.....

Today I was helping a friend install a radio. In the midst of the install I found myself with a soldiering iron in my hand performing "plastic welding". The piece I was "welding" had ABS stamped on the back of it. The weld seems solid and strong. Maybe its worth a shot on the radiator. The heat would also relieve all the stresses in the cracked area (unlike metal welding that introduces more stresses). The way I would weld it is to use the iron to move plastic from the left and right of the crack and smear it on top of the crack while trying to work it down in the crack. Once thats done all the length of the crack, then find some ABS plastic to use as donor and beef the weld up a bit. You could even finish it off with epoxy. It should hold if enough plastic is built up. I don't see why it wouldn't. (you can find donor ABS if you just pull off the piece surrounding your radio. On the back of it is donor ABS :) ).

Another idea is fiberglass resin. That stuff sticks to anything! Grinding is the only way I know to remove it.

I've always been curious if that Mighty Putty that Billy Mays pumps on tv is worth anything.... https://www.mightyputty.com/spark/index.php They show it on tv fixing wet leaks and pulling trucks around. Here's the wiki take on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mighty_Putty

Some other stuff Billy Mays interupts my tv watching with (middle of page): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billy_Mays

Btw, Seal All is a total and complete waste of money and time. .... unless making a big mess is your goal. I guess it could be used for that,,, but I can't think of anything else.

Wiki ABS: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abs_plastic

This place: http://www.solder-it.com/solderpaste.asp offers a product called Solder-It Plastic Weld (near bottom of page). Here's a quote, "Some common uses of Plastic Weld include repairs to ABS radiator tanks, overflow reservoir tanks, fan shrouds,,,,," Seems to imply that radiators are indeed ABS.
 
That's some good insights there Randy & Co... would need a junker rad to practice the plastic welding on. I'm sure Mighty Putty isn't any stronger than Marine-Tex, etc., just more CONVENIENT, but that's not to be ignored "on the side of the road". Will be including some Billy Mays putty in my truck kit... again, it's only 15 PSI, and what, 215degF max?... gotta be solutions other than "swap it out". ;')

Often Walgreens will have an "As Seen On TV" aisle, with the goods at HALF the price, plus NO s&h charges... note to self.

The deal with the Caravan is brother had to hit the road in 36 hrs. for 1200 mile trip... needed a sure-fix... OTOH, the worn-out beast has 140k on the odo and is slated for replacement by Nov. at the latest... oh well.

Illustrations/pics would've helped loads, but couldn't find them in small town store, nor online. Even so, it's a LOT more "embedded" than a Ranger rad, as any FWD will be, no getting around that.
 
Just some thoughts from appalachia.... :D

I'm not sure that it matters, but if antifreeze does anything to the boiling point of water it would have to be higher than 215. The PSI would be a bit higher than whatever the radiator cap says. And I can't help but to wonder why it cracked in the first place if the conditions were so mild. :icon_confused:

I'll have to check that out at Walgreens... I wouldn't mind trying some of that Mighty Putty... Its gotta be good for something.
 
abs plastic welding

i wonder if a harbor freight plastic welder will work for you. i've fixed everything from kayaks to trim panels and even those stupid prndl brackets on the steering coloumn, bet never tried to make it hold pressure. look up abs kayak or plastic repair for information on how and i think harbor freight has a welder for like $30.00
 
Grandpa came over today for me to help with a radiator hose replacement. While in there I noticed he had the radiator repaired with some type of hard epoxy. He said he went to get a new radiator and the guy said that was too much money for a little pin hole, so he put that patch on it for him. Its been holding for a few years. Nobody knows what it is though. Just some black, shiney epoxy.
 
When you think about it, EVERY piece of plastic, including our beloved(?) Ranger rad end pieces, were once some sort of liquid resin, which was poured into a mold, and hardened by some process, chemical or thermal, thus:

a) there SHOULD be some resin/epoxy/etc. out there that will bond to a radiator, if conditions are right; and

b) resins/epoxies might stick to MOST things, but NOT EVERYTHING, or else parts made of them would never release from the molds, lol.


Still like my original drill-and-tap idea, but hope I never have to test it on MY truck, lol... would always be worried I didn't get all the plastic sawdust flushed out.
 
I'm not sure that it matters, but if antifreeze does anything to the boiling point of water it would have to be higher than 215.

Yep, I think Prestone and that lot say like 235F, so epoxy should be rated 250F minimum, eh?... OTOH my OBD-II scanner says my Ranger never gets above 202F...

The PSI would be a bit higher than whatever the radiator cap says.

Why is that? Given failsafe design principles, I'd think the actual PSI would be lower, if anything. My point is that it's WAY lower than what your kitchen sink sprayer or toilet Flushmaster is dealing with all the time.

And I can't help but to wonder why it cracked in the first place if the conditions were so mild. :icon_confused:
I dunno, maybe the hood actually makes contact when it's slammed shut? This can actually happen with an aftermarket cap that's larger/taller than OEM. More likely stress molded in during mfg. that finally "worked its way out", and/or CHEAP ass ABS barely adequate to begin with, gets AGED by heat, vibration, chemical exposure... or it just misses its mommy, and wants to cry, LOL!


I'll have to check that out at Walgreens... I wouldn't mind trying some of that Mighty Putty... Its gotta be good for something.

You'd hope... then again, they make wild claims withOUT proper units, e.g. "holds 350 lbs."... um, is that 350 lbs./sq. INCH? Per sq. FOOT? Sheet, kid's safety paste will hold anything too... if you have enough surface/interface area to apply it to. "Watch it pull this 80,000 lb. tractor-trailer!"... um, OK, mind putting a tension SCALE in your towline? It's not like it takes 80k lbs. to pull a rig slowly on level ground. Silly ass commercial.

Will have to rig up my own destructive tests if I get the putty.
 
The psi of the system can be a fair amount higher than the pressure needed to open the relief of the radiator cap. Its possible for the for the water to boil enough that the cap can't let the steam out fast enough, therefore I was thinking the patch should be able to hold back a bit more than what the cap says. Steam can be quite powerful.

I thought it was neat how they made a link of mighty putty to connect 2 pieces of chain and lift a weight. I wonder if that Quik Steel from Walmart will do that.... Another thing I thought was cool is the mighty putty can patch wet leaks.

Pullin the truck didn't impress me either. Seeing Billy Mays pull it with his teeth.... That would impress me! Not because he could pull it, but because someone got him to shut up for 2 seconds. :D
 
The psi of the system can be a fair amount higher than the pressure needed to open the relief of the radiator cap. Its possible for the for the water to boil enough that the cap can't let the steam out fast enough, therefore I was thinking the patch should be able to hold back a bit more than what the cap says. Steam can be quite powerful.

OK, now I see what ya mean... yepper, yer whiz-bang rad-patch "goo" needs to harden into some serious toughness.

Another thing I thought was cool is the mighty putty can patch wet leaks.

Yes, a key feature to be sure... but IIRC, Bondo, Marine-Tex, etc. will do the same... wonder how long the Billy Mays putty can ride around in a HOT truck bed without SELF-mixing/hardening?... I'll let ya know. ;')

Pullin the truck didn't impress me either. Seeing Billy Mays pull it with his teeth.... That would impress me! Not because he could pull it, but because someone got him to shut up for 2 seconds. :D

LOL... he does get annoyin'... and quickly.


"As Seen On TV" at Walgreens, EXAMPLE:

Perfect Pushup exercise device: $40+$11 S&H on TV,
$20+$1.20 sales tax at Walgreens! Less than HALF! WTF!

Let's face it--no sense driving a Ranger if you don't have Migh-Tee PECS, lol!
 
jegs bro, you should hit them up , the time youll spend fucking around with patching over and over again will isnt worth more than a new radiatior and hoses check out my shit , easy project i spen $400 for the radiator, new water pump, thermostat and all the hoses and i even bought the radiator mounting kit $99 BUCKS, ( NOT WORTH MORE THAN 25$) and it took about 2 hours 21 and a half at most
95708301kd9.jpg
 

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