Need opinion on crack in engine block...

[scotts90ranger]

This is the engine from my Geo Tracker, it's a 1.6L aluminum block with sleeved cylinders, before I pulled it it did not leak coolant into the oil or anything else like that. The reason I pulled the engine is excessive oil use from worn pistons and/or rings, it has 297k miles on it but the bores are straight...

My question is, should I put the $300 in parts into this engine or find another to rebuild for the thing? There's another on Craigslist for $200 for a long block or $300 for another that has injectors and such (but isn't the right intake or exhaust manifold)... I'll be rebuilding no matter which way I go, kinda hoping the engine I have is fine but being in the #2 main bearing kinda makes me leery... I know the best solution is to not run a broken engine, but funds are tight, although if I'm building it I kinda want it to last so I'm torn...

So, rebuild my current engine or get a different one?

 

[RangerSVT]

Get another block, start with a stronger base...

SVT

 

[rangerbum]

I have to agree on that one. The stress of the rotating assembly could very well chip a chunk of that off. I know I wouldn't want the possibility of shards right in the main bearings on a fresh rebuild. Might not happen at all, or it could happen first time turning it over. Luck of the draw But I don't think I'd risk it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

it's most likely been like that for a year or 20k miles when it got to 9*F here and my coolant wasn't up to snuff...

That said, I sent an email to the guy with the two engines... gonna try to pick one up on Monday if he's around... I know it would probably still work but I don't want to pull the dang thing again, there's a lot of room in the engine compartment but it's all in the wrong place to work on it

 

[Andy D]

New block time. I know of a 1920s RR estate wagon that suffered the fate in Ukiah CA many yrs ago. I drove my BIL's Tracker once, I was very impressed. It is what a Jeep should be. I'm an old time Willys fan.

 

[txgocartB3000]

The block on the 1.6 is the same for the 16v and the 8v.

Pistons (valve reliefs) and head are different.

Go with a good block from the get go.

Ray

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'd learned that much in the research I'd done, wasn't expecting this issue when I decided to rebuild the thing... There isn't a whole lot of force in that area but I don't want a coolant leak into the crankcase... I'm meeting the guy tomorrow night so I'll do it right, the rebuild kit with pistons and oil pump is silly cheap ($277 and change) at rockauto.com and I'd like the thing to go for a few more years, now all I gotta do is figure out how to get the bearings in the transmission to last more than 2 years...

 

[txgocartB3000]

Sorry to go over some of the things you had researched already.

In your research did you happen to read this link?

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,88177.0.html

Very good read here but if already seen please disregard.

Ray

 

[scotts90ranger]

Wasn't trying to be ungrateful, it's a good piece of information , these engines are just super hard to find apparently... That's a pretty sweet link, quite the list going. The engine I just got has a PS pump and A/C pump on it, so I might just have to have a go with those .

Hopefully I'll have a chance to dig into this engine tomorrow night, I need to get this thing back on the road...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Replacement engine has the same dadgum crack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The same guy had another, I'll see if he'll give me a deal on it, even though that one is gonna be more work as it's less similar...