Cooling system tweaks.

[85_Ranger4x4]

I am in the process if changing my engine over to the Explorer FEAD from the small micro V belted Crown Vic setup.

First off I can only find the 90 degree water outlet for a Mustang, is there any reason this won't work for an Explorer too since nobody calls for it fitting? I didn't think to grab one at the JY and figured since the CV 45 degree one was $10 I would just get a new one rather than deal with it... no dice.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/9713.oap?keyword=9713

As I am taking stuff and comparing to the Explorer stuff I get to wondering, I hold the donar Explorer fan/clutch/WP pulley/water pump up to the CV timing cover and just roughing it out I have 1/4" between the fin on the clutch and the radiator. Not near enough to sleep well at night with but there is a good 3/4" with the fan... is there a more compact clutch out there that will go on the WP and ideally the fan? The electic fan works I guess but I do very much like the prospect of the clutched mechanical fan... and this way I could leave the electic pusher for backup.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I got the Mustang one since it was the only one that was available locally. I went to the JY today and checked out a '97 Explorer just for the thermostat housing since I was there. The only thing that really stuck out was the Mustang one I got had a 1/2" NPT port for a temp sender, the Explorer's was filled in and not tapped.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

On my truck wherever the engine is sitting relative to the radiator (all swaps vary) I have 1/8th of an inch between the clutch on the fan and the radiator... and the fan blade hits the tank seam. So at least on my truck the Explorer fan is a major no-go. Explorer 5.0 front drive and two core HD 91-94 radiator in the stock location.

I am however checking into alternatives.

 

[skx762]

I am using the serpentine set up that was originally on my engine when I bought it but have an Explorer FEAD in a box just in case. If I sue that though I will have to get a different flywheel. The older set up is 28 oz and I have a large bell housing c4, I also have a 50 oz but for a smaller bell housing. Both of yours are 50 oz I take it?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yeah, mine is an '87... 50 ouncer.

I think there is more to changing the balance of your engine than the harmonic balancer and flywheel.

http://classicbroncos.com/tech/explorer-5-0-serpentine-accessory-drive-belt-conversion

 

[skx762]

Thanks, I bookmarked that link.

I will have to go back over my parts list but I may already be set up for 50 oz. It's going on a year now since I tore everything apart "to just fix the Ranger, how long could that take?".

I did already know that I lose my mechanical fuel pump going with the Explorer set up.

I will be setting up the engine and test fitting this next month, I will find out what fits and doesn't fit then I guess.

To keep it sort of on topic I am running an Aerostar radiator and it had a pusher fan when I got it. I would like to switch to dual pullers or a regular water pump mounted fan if I can squeeze it in.

Necks, thermostats, fans, so many details to work out.

 

[dangerranger83]

Its those little things that just seem over wellming but taking then one at a time makes it easier.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Thanks, I bookmarked that link.

I will have to go back over my parts list but I may already be set up for 50 oz. It's going on a year now since I tore everything apart "to just fix the Ranger, how long could that take?".

I did already know that I lose my mechanical fuel pump going with the Explorer set up.

I will be setting up the engine and test fitting this next month, I will find out what fits and doesn't fit then I guess.

To keep it sort of on topic I am running an Aerostar radiator and it had a pusher fan when I got it. I would like to switch to dual pullers or a regular water pump mounted fan if I can squeeze it in.

Necks, thermostats, fans, so many details to work out.

The mechanical fuel pump was a non-issue on my truck, the steering box would wipe it out in a big hurry.

I have now backed up and am trying to figure out how I can put a low profile flex fan on the Explorer water pump. Nobody specifically says anything will fit an Explorer. I have been too busy at nights to mess with it much.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Surely there is somebody out there that has tried to put a flex fan on an Explorer water pump? Will a reverse rotation setup for a Mustang work? Will a Mustang clutched setup swap?

 

[RangerSVT]

The thermostat housing is a non issue, use an ex v8 upper hose and your good, 99 + lower ex v8 hose. Have you moved your rad forward for more clearance? Can you tweak your engine back a half inch or so? the problem with running a std rotation on a reverse (or vice versa) is your fan will not pull air from the rad, but push it instead. Try a 99+ clutch from a v8 ex, they are about as narrow as they get...

SVT

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The thermostat housing is a non issue, use an ex v8 upper hose and your good, 99 + lower ex v8 hose. Have you moved your rad forward for more clearance? Can you tweak your engine back a half inch or so? the problem with running a std rotation on a reverse (or vice versa) is your fan will not pull air from the rad, but push it instead. Try a 99+ clutch from a v8 ex, they are about as narrow as they get...

SVT

I couldn't see where the housing would make a difference, it is on the intake already... I like the Mustang one better because it has the port for my fan controller. The V8 upper hose is already sitting on the floor of the truck, the lower flexhose will probably ride again. I didn't think the V8 Explorer hose would work well on my much shorter 91-94 radiator.

The radiator hasn't been moved ahead any. The engine can't go back any more.

From what I can tell online the '99+ clutch is the same depth as the '97 I tried. The stupid cooling fins are my biggest snag...

Both the clutch and fan I have are from a '97 V8 Explorer, standard thread reverse rotation. They screw on the new pump fine, if they were standard rotation they wouldn't have (LH thread) I don't think the fan spinning backwards will be a problem.

I would like something so I didn't have to run my electric fan as much in the summer, if I move the rad the electric fan won't fit... that is why I am leaning towards a low profile flex fan.

I am also really tempted to try a regular V8 Explorer radiator. Quite a bit bigger but they are thinner and mounted closer to the core support, with the BL I do have more room vertically than a normal Ranger. $150 for a new one and I could probably have another inch and a half to run the stock fan/clutch... so theoretically barring aerodynamic differences it should then cool as well as a factory Explorer. I would probably ditch the efan at that point, dunno if I can bring myself to ram the mounts through another new radiator. I might go junkin and see how well they do fit...

 

[RangerSVT]

Check out summit racing, I was looking into a complete aluminum rad from them, it like around 130 or so. Also, you can try this. Grab another heater core from the jy or cheap one from the parts store, and about 20 feet of heater hose (what I will be doing for when i wheel). On your heater hose lines, run the RETURN line from your factory heater core to the 2nd core, and locate it the back, under your bed(where the spare tire would be located), then run the RETURN line back to the water pump. A fan is not needed on the heater core. The heat it will displace will be sufficient. By the time the hot water gets to the core at the rear of the truck and back to the water pump, the temp will drop significantly, not to mention your capacity will increase by a few gallons, also helping cooling. The reason you want the core return line and not the supply is come winter time your heater won't work as efficiently. Also, you can drill and tap the water neck for a sender. I did this on SVT, its covered in the first post of the build thread.


SVT

 

[shane96ranger]

I saw this and thought you might be interested.

When I added my s/c, I HAD to take out my OEM fan. So I went with the flex fan. My temp gauge used to sit in the middle, and after the fan it sat a little above a 1/4 with a 17" fan. Very easy to put in. Hardest thing was taking the stock fan out. It does lower you temp very good. I'm running a 18 1/2" flex fan without the fan shroud and it's keeping it just as cool. I say go with the flex fan.

Sourced from: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138944

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I saw this and thought you might be interested.



Sourced from: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138944

I had found that too.

It looks like to put a flex fan on my water pump it will take an adaptor, a spacer and the fan itself. And it is going to be the less effective low profile fan too.

After comparing around I think O'Reilly's website was lying to me about the thickness, most other places call it roughly 2" or similar to what I have now... so I don't know as that is going to be a major improvement in fitment of anything.

I did grab the shroud out of the Ex I got my FEAD out of so if nothing else I would have a template for the shroud hole. I tried it over my noon hour, with the top jammed under the core support the bottom was roughly an inch above the bottom of the frame rail... so if anyone else wants to try it, it is pretty close to working with a bodylift.

 

[RangerSVT]

I don't remember how the gen 1's mount, but you might be able to bend the mounting tab in an 'S' shape to gain clearance. I did this on my ranger and gained a little over an inch...

SVT