cooling system flush questions

[IRKillroy]

*sigh* whatever...

 

[Fast Fords]

could there possibly be a vacuum issue? when the engine idles, maybe there isn't enough vacuum?? I am taking a wild stab in the dark as i have NO idea if the ranger's HVAC controls use engine vacuum to actuate the blend doors..i know in newer trucks that they are electronically controlled...

look into that blend door issue. If you dont have coolant on your floor or, in my case, coming out to your truck and there being STEAM in the truck and coolant residue on the windshield, then your heater core is alright.

hope you find out the issues!

 

[Fast Fords]

oh and the old fashion flush way works great..if you use a flush kit yourself it will take a while to get it all out; i tried it and it did dic* all. I even let it sit after driving it for 15 min like intructions said..i spent the next 4 hours trying to get it all out..not fun lol..

and if you bleed the air out of the system properly, the water you use to flush it won't do any harm. I say this because the system is pressurized when the engine is running and besides, most metals need oxygen to oxidize. I believe the miniscule amount released in water/glycol systems will not harm anything.

also check your rad cap

 

[IRKillroy]

the oxygen in water makes it rust... and if you don't have a 50/50 mix the anti rust capabilities of the water glycol mix is moot.

soooo, you should always flush with 50/50 mix... but if you don't care... neither do I.

 

[Fast Fords]

the oxygen in water makes it rust... and if you don't have a 50/50 mix the anti rust capabilities of the water glycol mix is moot.

soooo, you should always flush with 50/50 mix... but if you don't care... neither do I.

i totally get what you are saying..unless your engine performs an electrolysis procedure where the hydrogen is seperated from the oxygen, the water stays as water. if there is air in the system, then heck yes it will rust. 50/50 is the only safe bet mix, and i would say check then check again for proper mix properties.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

the oxygen in water makes it rust... and if you don't have a 50/50 mix the anti rust capabilities of the water glycol mix is moot.

soooo, you should always flush with 50/50 mix... but if you don't care... neither do I.

If you don't have close the right mix around here, it will freeze and then rust will be the least of your worries anyway.

I made sure to drain mine out, the cup or two that MIGHT have been hiding in there won't hurt a darn thing.

 

[kossdust]

wait... you said your blend door isn't working.... it's possible that it's moving around when you are driving and you are getting the hot air then... you really should get that fixed before you go spend all that money for a heater core... if everything else is working fine, then it's probably the simplest thing... the only broken part of your heating system!!!

fix that first then let us know if everything is working the way it should.

No the blend door stays in place. It has been broken for years and only now has become a problem. I usually would just disconnect during the summer when It was not needed. I am not saying something could not have changed but I do not think it has. I have been meaning to do the blend door fix posted on the net but have not had time then this started up and have been afraid the heater core was going bad and if I have to open my dash up why not fix both?

The only reason I wanted to flush my system is I have stuff floating in it and thought maybe the heater core had become clogged or something.

 

[shadetree]

oh and the old fashion flush way works great..if you use a flush kit yourself it will take a while to get it all out; i tried it and it did dic* all. I even let it sit after driving it for 15 min like intructions said..i spent the next 4 hours trying to get it all out..not fun lol..

Exactly. Not worthwhile. A water flush is fine, and does as much good. It removes the loose stuff and that is what you want.

and if you bleed the air out of the system properly, the water you use to flush it won't do any harm. I say this because the system is pressurized when the engine is running and besides, most metals need oxygen to oxidize. I believe the miniscule amount released in water/glycol systems will not harm anything.

also check your rad cap

Engines run for years with plain water. Does it rust? Yes. Does it still cool? Yes, until the eventual rust clogs the radiator. The rust scale that forms in the block doesn't really hurt anything as the radiator will clog long before an accumulation of any consequence will stop up the block. Dirt is another matter.

Much of the problem with aluminum radiators and blocks is electrolysis, not water, not rust.

The small amount of rust that may accumulate in the coolant will not affect the coolant. The main purpose of the mix is to not allow the coolant to freeze during cold temps.

A radiator is cleaned by a process called "rodding out." This is simply removing the end caps, or tanks, and running a metal rod down each tube knocking out the build-up in the tubes. If there was a chemical that would take the place of this process it would be in use.shady

 

[Fast Fords]

koss

after much debate between members, i have come to the decision that yes, you should flush your cooling system; yes, use water to flush it out till it comes out clear; and yes, the rad flushes are a waste of valuable parts store shelf space. If your minor concern is chunkies, take off the upper rad hose, remove the thermostat housing and then remove the thermostat, re-install the thermostat housing, and completely remove the lower rad hose. Pour water into the thermostat housing and watch the fluid (and its contents) come out of the adapter for the lower rad hose. You will be flushing the block. Then, take the upper rad hose, re-connect it to the rad, and turn it so you can pour water into the rad. watch the content again. also pour water through the rad cap hole. Remember to drain and flush your overflow container. If you want, fill the engine with water, purge the air, drive till it gets to operating temp, then drain water. i did this method on my 95; it worked great. If your heater core is going or gone, your coolant level will be down too btw.

oh and your sensor may have gone poop too? do the flush though, its a good maintenance thing

 

[IRKillroy]

Exactly. Not worthwhile. A water flush is fine, and does as much good. It removes the loose stuff and that is what you want.

Engines run for years with plain water. Does it rust? Yes. Does it still cool? Yes, until the eventual rust clogs the radiator. The rust scale that forms in the block doesn't really hurt anything as the radiator will clog long before an accumulation of any consequence will stop up the block. Dirt is another matter.

Much of the problem with aluminum radiators and blocks is electrolysis, not water, not rust.

The small amount of rust that may accumulate in the coolant will not affect the coolant. The main purpose of the mix is to not allow the coolant to freeze during cold temps.

A radiator is cleaned by a process called "rodding out." This is simply removing the end caps, or tanks, and running a metal rod down each tube knocking out the build-up in the tubes. If there was a chemical that would take the place of this process it would be in use.shady

you do agree that water boils at 212 degrees yes? and that every pound of pressure put on your system increases the boiling point 1-2 degrees right? so your old radiator cap at 10 pounds means your cooling system is set-up for 225 degrees at most... but since it's old, you probably have 219... so with the elevation aside, you are looking at having your coolant do nothing other than boil in your engine and burst a heater core or radiator if the cap pressure release isn't working.

an article for those who don't know

this will back up the importance of getting your system done correctly with 50/50 mix... the money is worth it as it also lubricates your water pump...

 

[shadetree]

you do agree that water boils at 212 degrees yes? and that every pound of pressure put on your system increases the boiling point 1-2 degrees right? so your old radiator cap at 10 pounds means your cooling system is set-up for 225 degrees at most... but since it's old, you probably have 219... so with the elevation aside, you are looking at having your coolant do nothing other than boil in your engine and burst a heater core or radiator if the cap pressure release isn't working.

an article for those who don't know

this will back up the importance of getting your system done correctly with 50/50 mix... the money is worth it as it also lubricates your water pump...

As in your other thread, you are too anal about what you do. You do things "by the book,", but after years of doing this stuff, seeing what works and what doesn't, you learn how things really work. Flushing with water does the same as flushing with a mix. You waste money with the mix. As stated before, the system is sealed after changing, and rust is not a factor. It is not necessary for the average Joe.

This is a "self help" forum, and in most cases "taking it to the shop" is not an option as you suggest in a couple of your posts.

What part of the water pump gets lubricated by coolant?shady

 

[Fast Fords]

koss

a thing you could check out for the heater core clogness (no where near gramatically correct, i know) is remove the return line coming from the heater core an look at what comes out of the hose..if its just coolant with the white chunkies you describe, just flush it a bunch of times..that should help. if sludge comes out, or anything that may worry you, flush it and re-fill with coolant, then check it again. if its still not clean, then there is a possibility that the heater core is plugged..or other issues.

 

[RobbieD]

Kossdust, I don't think there's anything wrong with doing a good flush with plain water and a garden hose. And, if the radiator and heater hoses are suspect, old, or even the originals, you may want to consider replacing all of them with new as part of the excercise, and if you can afford it. If your cooling system is gunked up, new rubber would eliminate a lot the crap right out of the chute.

Fast Fords- As far as I'm concerned "clogness" is indeed a word now, as you just invented it (why let scholars have all the fun?). I like it; even makes me wonder if there's ever been any scientific studies on the clogicity of antifreeze mix as it ages. Keep on truckin'!

 

[Fast Fords]

Kossdust, I don't think there's anything wrong with doing a good flush with plain water and a garden hose. And, if the radiator and heater hoses are suspect, old, or even the originals, you may want to consider replacing all of them with new as part of the excercise, and if you can afford it. If your cooling system is gunked up, new rubber would eliminate a lot the crap right out of the chute.

Fast Fords- As far as I'm concerned "clogness" is indeed a word now, as you just invented it (why let scholars have all the fun?). I like it; even makes me wonder if there's ever been any scientific studies on the clogicity of antifreeze mix as it ages. Keep on truckin'!

ahaha thats great! and to think we have to PAY for education..damn, they should be paying US!!!!

the reason they don't make a good flush is to let the part stores and aftermarket suppliers make money..its all an intricate balance IMHO

 

[kossdust]

Well I am going to flush it with some good ol water till it looks good. Then I will refill with distilled water. While I am at it I think I will replace the heater hoses. Can I just by a length and cut to size? I figure the only two unique ones would be my houses coming from the radiator to the engine. since they have some bends in them.

I am hoping it should not cost to much for the hoses