Coolant leak from timing chain cover?

[aspevacek]

That is in fact a freeze plug. I would be concerned about the entire cooling system if a freeze plug has rotted thru.

The snapped off easy out could be cut out pretty easy with a dremil and tungstun carbide cutter. It will rip right thru the hardened steel easy out. they come in both a flat tip and a rounded nose cutter. I would suggest the rounded nose and slowly work it so you do not slip and gouge the intake.

 

[aeidian]

That is in fact a freeze plug. I would be concerned about the entire cooling system if a freeze plug has rotted thru.

The snapped off easy out could be cut out pretty easy with a dremil and tungstun carbide cutter. It will rip right thru the hardened steel easy out. they come in both a flat tip and a rounded nose cutter. I would suggest the rounded nose and slowly work it so you do not slip and gouge the intake.

Got the freeze plug out, punched it back, then pulled it out. It wasn't THAT easy, but for the sake of time that's pretty much what I did. Not knowing the size I needed, I guessed on a 1.5 one, because that's what it looked like to me. Seems I was right, kind of. Parts store didn't have the universal one in my size, so we went with the silver dollar ones. He brought me a brass one and I really didn't like the idea of that, my experience with brass is that it smooshes real easy and not worth it. He had one just like it in steel, and then a deep well one also in steel. I bought them all.

Started with the brass one, against my better judgement. Not having the handy dandy swivel tool to put them in with, I used a 1" socket, a swivel, and a couple long extensions to beat it in with. I didn't get it perfect all the way around, but I figured it was close enough. I was wrong. Had a bit of a leak when I first started it and when I revved it, it blew the damn plug out! I went to put it back in and really beat the sucker in this time. Ended up punching it THROUGH the hole and it dropped down in the block. Panic ensued and nearly burning my fingers off on the exhaust and the hot coolant I gave up and did some searching. Alot of people say just leave it in there, happens all the time. Some people say get it out at all costs. The cost would be taking the motor apart. I'm not doing it. I went with the deep well steel one and it seems to be holding. No leaks, no blow out.

Unfortunately now I have no damn oil pressure. Had it when I started the truck, after about 20 mins of running it, it dropped to nothing. It's always had low pressure, now it has none. I've tried draining the oil and using wire through the drain port to scrap the pickup, adding a quart of transmission fluid to clean things out, and revving the engine and driving it to try and loosen things up. None of it works. I put in 14 hours today working on this bucket, I'm gonna call it a day. Next step will probably be to take off the intake and distributor cap and jack the motor up high enough to get the pan off and inspect the oil pump and pickup. Hopefully it's just gummed up. Did have an old grand prix that sheared the end of the distributor shaft off which caused the oil pump not to work though. Hoping it's not that.

 

[Psychopete]

Next step will probably be to take off the intake and distributor cap and jack the motor up high enough to get the pan off and inspect the oil pump and pickup. Hopefully it's just gummed up. Did have an old grand prix that sheared the end of the distributor shaft off which caused the oil pump not to work though. Hoping it's not that.

Is it knocking when pressure is low? Are you sure you didn't unknowingly damage the wire to the sending unit? Really in a bad spot, easiest would be to pull the engine out and fix all issues while it's on a stand - but if you're having that many bolts snap, those exhaust bolts probably don't stand a chance.

I have taken the pan off a 2.3L with engine still in the truck (I had to remove the engine and didn't have my hoist), and I can say that it was truly a pain in the back. It didn't pull back, it had to go forward... Also had to take the pump off with the pan still between the engine and cross member because it wasn't coming off with the pick up tube in the way. I am glad I did not have to re-install it that way, sheesh.

Mechanical gauge and a prime tool is where I would start on the oil pressure problem to make sure it's really a problem with keep damage to a minimum to be able to verify pressure and not actually start the engine. What sucks is that 2.9L is not a hex like most, it's a star. I have a prime tool for this engine that was made out of an old distributor.

 

[aspevacek]

yes I would verify you truely have no oil pressure befor egoing to great trouble of pulling the motor. Get a test guage and verify. A quick check to see if the motor has oil pressure let it warm up then watch for any abnormal vibration as you rev the engine. That is a quick way to tell because if there is no oil pressure there will be too much clearance around the crank and it will hop around in the mains. Listen for knocking or excess valve train noise. If you do not have those things I would say you have oil pressure and the guage is just not functioning.

 

[aeidian]

I put a mechanical oil pressure and temp gauge on it awhile back, so no sending unit. When I first restarted the engine, the pressure went up to 40+ like it always does. After letting it reach operating temperature and idle out it dropped to 5 to 10 like "normal". I backed it off the ramps and drove about 20 feet and the gauge dropped. Its had an oil leak from the front main for awhile, so it would go through oil about a quart every couple of weeks. Replaced the front main during this venture. Once when I knew it was low on oil, but didn't drive it for 4 days, I went out to drive it and after about 15 mins the oil pressure dropped to zero and stayed there. Lots of rattling and such but I where I was there were no gas stations or anything to get oil and I didn't have any on me. Drove it home, drained the oil, tried to scrap the pickup screen through drain hole, added a quart of transmission fluid, and topped it back off. Couple minutes of death rattle and it evened out. Ran it a couple hundred miles like that and drained it out and filled it properly. Haven't had any issues since, until now. I don't think the fault is the gauge, since it was working and then stopped. The truck always has some rattle when out past 2k rpms. It did and has knocked when I first start it after the oil change, but stops after running it a bit.

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[aeidian]

Just went out and started it after letting it sit all night. I can tell just by listening to it that it's not getting circulation. Our old trucks have their quirks, little pings or rattles or such that we know is "normal", but when something is out of whack we can tell right away, right? I know I can. Might be a blockage, or gummed up pickup, or the oil pump gave out, I don't know. Revving it up sounds terrible. It doesn't knock so much as tap at idle. I've known motors to knock, like a rod knocking when it's about to go, that's not really this sound.

Far as the pulling the motor, I just don't have that option. I live in an apartment complex and I'm sure they'd frown on me turning their parking lot into a junkyard. I think they're already uneasy about the work I DO do there, but I haven't gotten any calls yet. My only option is to try and jack the motor up in the truck and get the pan off that way. I tried this once before when I changed the oil pan gasket and I couldn't get the pan off, so I fished the gasket around the pan and then put it on like that. Didn't think to jack the motor up.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Reading your posts makes me want to throw wrenches for you! I'm afraid it sounds like you're in for a rebuild, but I'm not that mechanically inclined. Hope you get it fixed.

Again, I'm no mechanical genius, but it sounds like something is not circulating the oil...have you checked the oil pump? If you pour a quart in does it read any pressure at all?

 

[Psychopete]

worst thing to do at this point is start the engine if it's really having oil pressure problems. machine shop manager gave me a word of caution on the the timing chain tensioner, that's it's dependent on oil pressure. I don't know if that's the case for sure never having taken one apart (see pic) - maybe something happened there if that's the case ??

 

[a31ford]

Those are "Frost" plugs, and they are actually made of tin, they are a convex plate that has a lip about 1/4" tall, the entire plug is about 0.12" thick (3/32" or so) they come in different sizes (Diameter).

I'm going to say this.... doing one is a "quick fix" and most times in one that is that corroded, you will most likely have a bunch more that will follow with the same problem quite soon...

Another thing, with that much corrosion, you might want to wipe a thin skim of silicone on the face of the mating area to insure a good seal, DO NOT OVER DO IT WITH THE SILICONE !!!

To remove, drive the plug in with a hammer and a socket (leave a bit of space on the socket, and a deep one works well). grip the lip of the plug with a set of channel lock pliers, with the heal of the pliers against the block and pry it out. (heal is in the "cup of the plug" acting as a lever, against the block).

Greg

 

[a31ford]

antifreeze or water in the oil will cause a "no pressure" problem, DO NOT run the engine until you find the problem as antifreeze will eat the main and rod bearings, VERY QUICKLY (2-3 hours.)

Greg

 

[aeidian]

worst thing to do at this point is start the engine if it's really having oil pressure problems. machine shop manager gave me a word of caution on the the timing chain tensioner, that's it's dependent on oil pressure. I don't know if that's the case for sure never having taken one apart (see pic) - maybe something happened there if that's the case ??

I don't see how oil pressure plays into it, its a mechanical tensioner. Soon as you pull the u clip out it ratchets out to the max tension allowed on the chain, only goes out (tightens the chain) from there, the teeth prevent it from going in (loosening the chain) as I found out to my displeasure when I pulled that clip before I out it on the block and busted the first one.

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[aeidian]

Reading your posts makes me want to throw wrenches for you! I'm afraid it sounds like you're in for a rebuild, but I'm not that mechanically inclined. Hope you get it fixed.

Again, I'm no mechanical genius, but it sounds like something is not circulating the oil...have you checked the oil pump? If you pour a quart in does it read any pressure at all?

Its got 4-5 quarts in it now, so I don't know what you mean by one quart. I don't think it is getting any circulation. Either a clogged pickup or a shot pump. Next step is drop the pan.

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[aeidian]

antifreeze or water in the oil will cause a "no pressure" problem, DO NOT run the engine until you find the problem as antifreeze will eat the main and rod bearings, VERY QUICKLY (2-3 hours.)

Greg

This is possible. When I drained the oil to add a quart of transmission fluid the oil seemed very thin. I figured it was just because it was hot as I drained it within 15 mins of shutting off the truck. I'll know tomorrow when I drain it again if its got water in it. I don't have any water loss in the radiator that I can tell though.

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[aeidian]

Checked it today, it is getting about 5lbs of pressure, just doesn't go up when you give it gas. I'm still hoping its a clogged screen.

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