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Cold Start Fix, Tune up, and VC Gaskets.


The engine temp sensor is fairly easy to get to if you remove the throttle body and thermostat housing. Both are easy to do.

freedom5
 
The engine temp sensor is fairly easy to get to if you remove the throttle body and thermostat housing. Both are easy to do.

freedom5

That is certainly another option, but I believe it's about the same number of bolts, either way.

This is my work truck, so I had to minimize the potential for downtime, so I went the easy way.

It was really no big deal to pull the upper intake, and it made the tune up a lot easier.

I hate messing with anti-freeze, and t-stat bolts are notrious for breaking off. I put about 100k miles on this engine with one broken off, so I avoid messing with it, if I can.

-zz
 
I broke one bolt on thermostat housing. I wish i had the guts to take off my plenum and give it a good cleaning. but im scared ima break some bolts along the way
 
I broke one bolt on thermostat housing. I wish i had the guts to take off my plenum and give it a good cleaning. but im scared ima break some bolts along the way

If you're talking about a 2.9, there's not much reason to have to clean it. Since the 2.9 doesn't have a PCV, it shouldn't really have a bunch of build up.

If you look at the pics of my lower intake, you can still see the grind marks where it was matched to the upper intake @ 100 thousand miles ago.

The broken thermostat bolt is another thing entirely.

-zz
 
Oh No; my 360K mile 2.9 has issues!

Thanks for the great post! Wish I had your attention to detail. I have had my ranger since Nov '92. Kept her clean, and maintained well with plugs, wires, filters, etc. Yesterday she failed me. Started really rough idle, then stalled when I took my foot off the gas. Started back, very rough idle, and I limped her home. Today, replaced plugs (only 25K on old ones), wires, and air filter. Here is where ( I think?) the wheels came off; I removed the A/c compressor, lines, condenser, and tube shaped vacuum "thingy", before I started the engine. She started right up, but was erratic, fluttered, and barely idled. Should have left the A/C stuff till she was running normal, but I felt froggy and jumped to soon! I used starting fluid, and found no vacuum leaks. I pulled the PCV, and she idled better. Cleaned the pcv, no better. I then traced one vacuum line to a 3x4" inch part in the firewall. Pulled the vacuum, and she ran better again; plugged the line back up, no run. Seems like the engine wasn't getting air unless one of the 2 lines were left off? Any suggestions for this novice mecneck?
 
Thanks for the great post! Wish I had your attention to detail. I have had my ranger since Nov '92. Kept her clean, and maintained well with plugs, wires, filters, etc. Yesterday she failed me. Started really rough idle, then stalled when I took my foot off the gas. Started back, very rough idle, and I limped her home. Today, replaced plugs (only 25K on old ones), wires, and air filter. Here is where ( I think?) the wheels came off; I removed the A/c compressor, lines, condenser, and tube shaped vacuum "thingy", before I started the engine. She started right up, but was erratic, fluttered, and barely idled. Should have left the A/C stuff till she was running normal, but I felt froggy and jumped to soon! I used starting fluid, and found no vacuum leaks. I pulled the PCV, and she idled better. Cleaned the pcv, no better. I then traced one vacuum line to a 3x4" inch part in the firewall. Pulled the vacuum, and she ran better again; plugged the line back up, no run. Seems like the engine wasn't getting air unless one of the 2 lines were left off? Any suggestions for this novice mecneck?

If it idles better with a vacuum leak, then I'd probably check the idle air control valve.
Is it throwing codes?
 
Codes?

Well, I went thru and replaced the TFI/ICM, the coolant temp sensor, and checked all the grounds. She started on the first turn, but still idled rough. This time when I pulled the vacuums, she stalled out. She is running very rich, smoke (black?), even when revved to 3500 rpm she still seems rough, but the smoke clears? As far as codes, I do not even know where to interface with computer? What tools do I need? I probably need to take it to a real mechanic! I have an OBD II scanner; can I use it for codes? Thanks for the extra info!
 
Re: codes The BII uses an EEC-IV/OBD1. The diagnostic plug is located near the heater fan. You might have to dig around to find it.
I think that you should do what ever you're comfortable with, but it's not all the difficult to use the system, and it's a lot better than throwing parts at the problem.
First, though, you show take advantage of the great resource that is TRS and look in the Tech Library.
You'll find great instructions and information.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
 
Great,

I really appreciate your guidance! I am going to attempt the code reading, before I admit defeat (going to garage). I will update again soon!
 
I just noticed that you have a '92, that might be an OBDII. Not sure what year that changed over. Maybe someone can chime in.
 
Since the 2.9 doesn't have a PCV, it shouldn't really have a bunch of build up.

It does have a PCV valve/system.

mendozamm - the thermostat bolts are far more likely to snap than the upper plenum bolts.

'92 2.9 will still be OBD-I.
 
It does have a pvc. If pulled the rpms shoot up. New pvc no different. Gonna chek the codes (well, try to) tomorrow. The coolant sensor came out easily? I was worried. I assume the gizmo on the side of the intake (on a small elongated gadget) is the TPS? I'm about out of sensors in the engine bay! Where is the computer located?
 
Well, another day done. Borrowed a vacuum gauge today. I had less than 10lbs total. Pumped her up to 20, and she purred like a kitten. No smoke, no hesitation. I guess the old girl is just flat wore out, and needs to be retired. I really appreciate all the educating you folks did here in the forum. Who knows, maybe I can swap the 2.9 for a 5.0 (minus that sorry A4LD), and keep her for another 15 years!
 
are you sure you dont have another vaccuum leak??? do a compression check too
 
Compression check showed 135-140 across all cylinders. Couldn't really gauge the leak off though. My gauge held the highest pressure and I had to release the pressure. Timing was spot on. I searched for any other leaks, and found none. And like I've said, she doesn't burn any oil. She leaks off oil around the valve covers and rear/main seals, but I had hoped that the "transmission fluid" trick would stop that when I had her running again. The A4LD rebuild I had in mind won't be needed if I swap out!
 

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