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coil gets hott!!


will2045

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
174
City
Mt Pleasant, Mi
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
My 302 swap runs fine but when i first put it in, the orignal coil go so hot i couldnt touch it and then stopped workin at all. so i changed it with a new one thinking it was because it was old. I put in a brand new accell coil and today ran the motor for about 10 mins and it died the fluid had leaked out of the coil and it was too hott to touch so obviously it wasnt the coil can anyone help me with this??? thanks a ton guys
 
You probably need a ballast resistor on the positive side of the coil. I had the same problem when I did my Duraspark conversion on my 2.8, but I used a pushbutton starter instead of the key. Normally there is one if you use all the stock stuff with the key but I was missing some wiring....

Basically you just want to drop the voltage down at the coil. If you can get it running, check the voltage right at the coil...should be like around 9v. 12v is too much and overheats it.
 
or you could use one of the hei, dry type coils, they typically run at 12v.
 
or you could use one of the hei, dry type coils, they typically run at 12v.

If it doens't match the ignition type (points, TFI, Duraspark, etc) it still won't work right. The coil must match the ignition system requirements and the volatge input must be right to work correctly.
 
He didn't say what type of module he was using. I'm using a gm four pin module with a dry type hei coil and it works fine with my duraspark distributor.
 
If it doens't match the ignition type (points, TFI, Duraspark, etc) it still won't work right. The coil must match the ignition system requirements and the volatge input must be right to work correctly.

The only time its going to matter is if you are using points or a oil bathed coil.Points and oil bathed coils only use 7-9 volts to operate.If you use a E-coil then you can get away with 12-14 volts.I have been using the E-coils on my cars for years and have never had one not work or go bad from using one on an older car using the duraspark dist. or using a MSD system on my race car.TFI is the same as a duraspark its just made smaller and mounted on the distributor.It is posible to run a TFI dist. on a old school carburated car with NO computer system. The E-coil will work for any and all systems.
 
It is posible to run a TFI dist. on a old school carburated car with NO computer system.

I was under the impression that the computer controlled the timing advance on ECC-IV systems? Doesn't seem like the TFI has enough inputs to handle advancing the timing, not unless the TFI just kept the timing at base?

I had the idea once to use the pickup from a TFI distributor in a duraspark computer setup (2.9L carb conversion), but I could have sworn that I read that the signals were different, that the TFI dist outputs a digital signal.

I looked it up again, here is where I read it:

"The TFI distributor uses a Hall sensor instead of a magnetic pickup so the TFI module will not recognize the "analog" signal from a Duraspark distributor."

http://www.bronco.com/cms/node/25

Pete
 
The E-coil will work for any and all systems.

I don't think so dave..................Just had a guy over on StangNet(or somewhere else) that was running one with a Pertronix II and was having problems. He solved it by going back to the Accell Super coil he was running before. You may not have had E cores go bad but I have. It was an Accell coil on a 95 E150 van. The whole thing came apart.
 
I don't think so dave..................Just had a guy over on StangNet(or somewhere else) that was running one with a Pertronix II and was having problems. He solved it by going back to the Accell Super coil he was running before. You may not have had E cores go bad but I have. It was an Accell coil on a 95 E150 van. The whole thing came apart.[/QUOTE ]

Well Richard I know so and have been doing it for many years now. Pertronics probly requires the voltage to be reduced down or maybe you just had a bad E-coil or faulty wiring.I live in AZ where under the hood temp skyrocket and never had a single problem.I have used the Accel super coils on a couple of vehicles in the past and have had great luck with them to but they are just so big and bulky and the MSD E-coil puts out more spark voltage so I use them.I only speak from my experience and success and the many cars that I have owned and built over the last 26yrs of building cars.
 
ok guys well i replaced the coil checked the ignition module and it passed and i installed a 1.79ohm ballast resistor in the pos wire for the coil.

and it didnt fix a damn thing the coil got really hott the wires to the distributor got really hott the ballast resitor was smoking... i am so close this is killing me.

I dont know if its related but when i tryed to drive it the motor started missing when i put it under a load but if i eased it uip to speed it was fine,

and after it gets all warmed up it wont idle in gear. i take it from park to either gear and once it locks in and loads the mottor it dies. i thought that might be torque converter but it idles in gear just fine when its cold. so this is kinda urgent i need my truck driving asap so please throw me any and all ideas. I wired it exactly like the duraspark 2 diagram in the tech lib except i had no harnesses so i made mine and used the 1.79ohm porc ballast resitor. and i dont have a start bypass but it starts just fine without it. PLEASE HELP!!!
 
I Also made my wire harness for the alternator and voltage regulator and all that shit i also followed a wiring diagram i was wondering if that was supossed to have a ballast resistor or not because i just wired it.
 
Get a voltage reading at the coil for starters. That will tell you if your coil is getting too much voltage.

Are you running a stock coil? What brand ballast resistor did you use? I used the stock coil and a Mallory resistor.
 
Get a voltage reading at the coil for starters. That will tell you if your coil is getting too much voltage.

Are you running a stock coil? What brand ballast resistor did you use? I used the stock coil and a Mallory resistor.


I have Accell super stack coil and the ballast resistor is just a car quest one they looked up the ohms because i read nline i need 1.8 ohms and the one they gave me is supossed to be 1.79-1.89 I have a stock coil but i didnt think changing the coil would cause a problem especially if im putting in a after market coil. ill get the reading today fter work but im certain its getting too many volts i just dont know why. What would be a ok range of volts for my coil to get? it says its a 12 volt coil.

One thing i thought of was i didnt use a specific wire for the hot coming into the coil i found one close to the ignition switch that wasnt being used and that was hott in the run position and ran that to the +side of my coil. does it matter what wire i feed the coil with?
 

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