• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

clutch problems


Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
19
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
I have a 00 ranger 4wd 5 speed 3.0. Tore reverse gear out so i bought a used tranny with slave still on it. Put it in and seems as if slave was bad. I took it to a shop because i had no time to work on it so i bought a new clutch kit with a new slave, new line from the master to the salve and a new master cylinder. The shop took old slave and clutch out and had flywheel turned. tried manual bleeding but no luck. So i went in and looked and we tried a pressure bleeeder. noluck. another shop in town had another type of pressure bleeder but we still had no luck with it. any ideas???? no air is coming out into the fluid wheen bleeding, just clean, new fluid.
 
Not sure I understand the problem. Are you saying the bled clutch isn't working correctly? And the fluid is coming out clear with no air?

Or are you simply trying to bleed it and its doesn't have any air coming out? If this is the case maybe its bled.
 
you have to jack the front of the truck waaaaaay up (best done at the shop with a 4 post lift) and then bleed it. otherwise you will never get it bled.

i work in a shop and this is standard procedure for me whenever i get ford trucks. works great
 
the clutch wont fully disengage. the slave will push on the fingers of pressure plate but it is as if it its too weak to press fingers> i was told by another mechanic that tolerance on flywheel is very small so it may have been turnes down too far? is this true or do you for sure think its just air in the line?
 
its air in the lines. i've never seen one of these that did NOT do this after replacing the slave/master. it will pump out clean fluid until you jack up the front very high and retry bleeding, then you'll get a ton of air and then you'll have a working clutch.
 
so approximatley how high should i jack the front end up? and should i use a pressure bleeder or try manual bleeding it first? thanks for all yalls help. its savin me time and money lol
 
I would pull the master cylinder and the line out of the truck and bleed it. It will probably take less effort and time.
 
you can manually bleed it. you jack the truck up until the master cylinder is level or as close as you can get it. or like HareRazor said you can remove the master cyl and the hydraulic line and bleed the master out, then put it back in and bleed the slave.

to do this you would need an assistant to push on the master cyl rod and you would take a screw driver and push in on the check valve at the end of the line
 
Ok. I called the shope and they are saying its a manufactuers defect on slave cylinder. It will move about a quarter inch but its not pushing far enough to disengage the clutch. The pedal is very soft. If there was still air in the system would the slave move at all or would it more likely be a defect. I need my truck back asap and I'm running out of money to put into it. Thanks
 
yes it would still move with air in the system.

you replaced the MASTER, and the SLAVE. the master cyl still has air trapped in it because of the way it is mounted. if the shop wants to warranty it and waste their time with another slave then they must not know what they are doing when it comes to these. everything you are saying has happened to me until i properly bled the air out.
 
Yep, I have my money on air in the system too. They will probably replace more parts and you will be in the same situation.
 
ok well me and the mechanic had a go-round because he didnt like being told what to do. i explained to him and he just said he bled it how the book said and i need a new slave. so i told him not to touch the truck and i would pay for what he had already done ($867.00). so i am going to have to fix it in the parking lot i guess. do you think i could just pull the front up on a trailer or will that not be high enough? also could you give me a step by step procedure for doing this correctly. I dont want to be making one small mistake that is going to cost me more time and money
 
Jack the front up like he said, then try what i did...see post 12 http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45660

You have to unbolt the master from the firewall, disconnect the foot pedal...bungee cord it at an upward angle or have someone hold it, run a clear tube from the bleed screw back up to the reservoir, then pump the master again and again and again till no more air is running through the line. Close up the bleeder fast after wards.
 
And ps...what book did your mechanic use....the $20 haynes manual? LOL.....almost everyone knows that method doesnt work for rangers.
 
ok well me and the mechanic had a go-round because he didnt like being told what to do. i explained to him and he just said he bled it how the book said and i need a new slave. so i told him not to touch the truck and i would pay for what he had already done ($867.00). so i am going to have to fix it in the parking lot i guess. do you think i could just pull the front up on a trailer or will that not be high enough? also could you give me a step by step procedure for doing this correctly. I dont want to be making one small mistake that is going to cost me more time and money

You were charged $867 to put the parts in you supplied, and resurface the flywheel?
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top