Clutch Problem?

[anupaum]

Hello! This is my first time posting in this forum, so please be nice!

I've begun having trouble getting my truck into gear. The shifter simply won't move into place when I have the clutch pedal depressed at a stop, and sometimes I actually have to shut the engine off before it will work.

Does this indicate I need a new clutch?

Thanks for your help!

 

[AllanD]

That is either a clutch actuation problem (slave cylinder or master cylinder)

OR (a dark horse in this race) a bad pilot bearing.

AD

 

[Mutant Pony]

Well it wouldn't be the clutch itself. It could be master/slave related, the trans itself, or the pilot bearing galled into the input shaft.
The first thing you need to do is check the fluid level. If the fluid is full, it could be the master cylinder.
The most likely problem is the slave cylinder, the fluid will be low and you will be leaking fluid out the bottom of the bellhousing.

 

[anupaum]

Excellent! Thank you for the advice. I'll check it out.

 

[Jspafford]

A very very worn out clutch would cause the same problem, at least in my experience.

 

[anupaum]

A very very worn out clutch would cause the same problem, at least in my experience.

It's definately seen more wear and tear than average. Before going to the Megasquirt, I had a problem with "bog and stall" off idle that likely used up a bit more clutch than it should have . . .

I'm not actually looking forward to tracing a leak in the event that I find the clutch reservoir a bit low. I've heard that swapping out the slave cylinder is a PAIN!

Of course, I'll try that first. I'm hoping to have some time tomorrow, but I've got this "part time" online teaching job that is occupying more hours than is right for what I'm getting paid!

 

[anupaum]

Ok, the fluid level WAS low in the reservoir, but I couldn't find a leak anywhere. With the problem persisting after I'd topped it up, I took my truck to a repair shop and a mechanic had a look at it.

The clutch is releasing very close to the top of the pedal travel. Of course, I'm used to this, so I haven't noticed. There are no leaks in the lines, and aside from "minor" seepage in the tower (which is common on the Mazda tranny, apparently!), there is no sign of any problem.

The mechanic told me this is likely the result of a clutch on the verge of wearing out. I'm leery of doing the work myself because I don't really have a good place to do such work, nor do I have the tools to pull out the transmission, but the labor alone is going to cost me $300.

Yikes!

I just had to buy tires for this machine. I really don't have the cash to dump another $600 into it . . .

I've heard that swapping a clutch on a 2wd Ranger isn't as bad as the 4wd models. Any experience here?

 

[Jspafford]

I have done the clutch on my Bronco II once, but had the transmission out 3 times. It takes me about 3 hours to get it onto the floor. This involves, in my case, removing two driveshafts, a transfer case, transfer case linkage, then removing the tranny.

All you will have to do is unbolt the driveshaft, pull the shifter out from inside the truck. It is held on by a weird looking bolt, in order to remove it, you unscrew the nut off the one side and screw it onto the other.. It will then pull the bolt out and the shifter slide up and off. Put a jack under the rear of the motor and remove the starter. Disconnect the hydraulic line. Unbolt the transmission (with something under it to hold it) remove the crossmember and lower the tranny. You now have access to the clutch.

I think that is it, but I may have forgot something.

 

[MAKG]

The only special tool you MIGHT need is the $5 clutch release tool. You can improvise, but as a first timer, I'd suggest the tool.

Everything else needed to remove is a standard socket or wrench, perhaps with a 3/4 inch pipe on the end for leverage.

The transmission isn't that heavy. Though I find it a lot easier to use a platform jack, because it's awkward to bench press it in and out on your back under the truck. These can be rented.

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Slave cylinder, at least in my case.

Had a very, very similar problem in my Ranger for quite a while, and it really pissed me off. I have a 5.0EFI with M5OD behind it, and I had big problems with it sometimes completely REFUSING to go into first, typically at stop lights. I would usually roll up to a light from about 10-15 and sit at the light... when it turned green and I went to put it in gear, it completely denied me. After about 5-10 seconds it would usually pop in. Then, between first and second gear, it wouldn't go into second without huge delays. If it wouldn't go into first, it would grind hard going into reverse every time.

After playing with it a while, and having my dad look at (35yr mechanic, hands down the most intelligent car/fabrication person I know) and him being stumped, I thought that just how it was gonna be. We changed the master assembly about 8 months before the slave gave up. That fixed the problem for about a week, and then it was back to square one again.

Finally one day, I started it up, backed out of my driveway, and put it in first... as I took off, it was like I dropped the clutch, and that was the end of that. Slave cylinder toasted.

Typically a problem like this ISN'T the clutch itself (the lined disc that creates the friction to put power to the wheels), since as the lining wears out, you would typically notice the clutch slipping as you accelerate. I would imagine the truck would get easier to put into gear as the clutch itself went out.

 

[MAKG]

You're right about the distinction between the clutch disk/pressure plate/flywheel as opposed to the hydraulics. However, it matters a whole lot less with the concentric slave, as it really is very advisible to replace both at the same time.

But a preliminary is to check the master and line, as it's a LOT less work to change that than to go into the bellhousing.

FYI, hydraulic problems aren't the only release problems one might get. Some of them MIGHT be due to the clutch itself. Especially a dry pilot bearing or a warped or disintigrating (non-flat) disk. Once again, it doesn't matter very much except for the master/line, as you're going to replace it all anyway.

 

[94SPLASH]

I just put a slave in for a guy I work with and he had the same problem. He just started with the company a couple of months ago he had his truck parked, a shop told him it was his clutch and wanted $900 to replace. One day while dropping him off I bled his clutch and it worked fine agian. Then after about a month his slave went out completly. So you might be able to nurse it along for a while but I would go ahaed and take a closer look at the slave

 

[bills442]

Hi Guys, looks like I gotta do this too. Dead at 84,000 miles. My quick question is: do you typically have to drop the exhaust crossover to perform this job? It look like the drivers side exhaust downtube is in the way on my 3.0. Thanks!

 

[MAKG]

You'll find guys that will say no, but yes you really do. You may get the transmission out by forcing it, but getting it back in without damaging your brand new clutch is not easy.

Impact wrench and lots of penetrating lubricant.

 

[bills442]

Thanks man! Ha ha, I got about 30% of the way into this job, and as I was sitting there staring at the transfer case and tranny and my "lack of" decent floor jack, I suddenly realized: am i crazy? I'm 40 years old, not 17, Ain't no way I'm bench pressing that thing back in there. I don't have a second car to run and gets parts in, just my motorcycle; so I bolts the exhaust and driveshafts back up and ran with my tail between my legs to the dealer. Oh, and let me tell you, bring a can of vasoline. I won't even reveal how much I'm spending. Why oh Why couldn't they just have a clutch fork. Sigh. Well, maybe , just *maybe* if this truck is good to me, I might consider buying a transmission jack and actually doing it myself next time; lord knows you can't afford to pay this everytime. The ironic thing is I purchased (used) the manual because I thought it would be more reliable than an automatic. I usually get 150k out my clutches, and *that* was when I was younger and drove like a madman. Nice truck, really like it, save for this one achilles heel.