Clutch pedal problem?

[zanity]

I'm trying to identify and repair a problem with my 1993 Splash. Recently installed a new flywheel, pressure plate, clucth disc and pre-bled slave cylinder kit. The clutch pedal is very high at the top of the pedal "travel". I can barely backup out of my driveway that has a slight incline. It shifts fine when I start moving forward. Also have noise that sounds like a broken baffle in the exhaust at 35mph. Not sure if this is related to the pedal problem. Everything was bought at a local parts store that I've used mant times.

Anybodt have an idea what might be wrong?

Thanks....

 

[scotts90ranger]

The clutch should disengage toward the beginning not near the floor, if it is near the floor there's air in the system somewhere.

 

[zanity]

The clutch should disengage toward the beginning not near the floor, if it is near the floor there's air in the system somewhere.

The clutch is not near the floor. The pedal is a very "high" before I can get it to start moving. The pedal is almost all the way to the top. There is no way that it should be like this. I've owned this truck since new and the pedal has never been like this.

 

[Curious Hound]

I wonder if you got the pressure plate backwards or something crazy like that.

 

[zanity]

I wonder if you got the pressure plate backwards or something crazy like that.

The pressure plate can only go on one way....Really trying to get an idea on what's wrong before I have to take this all apart. Definitely not fun to do......

 

[scotts90ranger]

This isn't a cable clutch where it's in the middle when it disengages (or wherever you adjust it to work), from the sounds of it it hasn't been working "correctly" since you've had it, the way these things work is it should disengage by the time the pedal has been pushed down 2-3". I've now had 3 of the things personally, and all disengage when near the top when working correctly.

 

[zanity]

This isn't a cable clutch where it's in the middle when it disengages (or wherever you adjust it to work), from the sounds of it it hasn't been working "correctly" since you've had it, the way these things work is it should disengage by the time the pedal has been pushed down 2-3". I've now had 3 of the things personally, and all disengage when near the top when working correctly.

OK, I guess I'm not explaining the problem correctly. This is a hydraulic slave cylinder setup. Everything has been replaced pertaining to the clutch setup. The problem is...when I start to move the truck. You have to push the clutch pedal in to start it, slowly let it out so the truck moves. This is when I'm in reverse backing out of my driveway which has amall incline to it. As I'm backing out the clutch pedal is at the end of it's "travel" so I have to push it back in and start letting it out to finish backing out of the driveway. Once out of the driveway, I put it in first gear and start moving forward, Again the clutch pedal is all the way out before it starts moving. It has never been like this since I ordered the truck 27 years ago. The only reason I replaced everything was a bad slave cylinder.

Hope this explains the problem a little better. I'm trying to get this fix ASAP because this will be my daily driver when the weather turns bad. Mustangs don't like ice and snow very much.

Thanks........

 

[scotts90ranger]

Oh, it sounds like it's not engaging then, odd... the only time I had an engagement problem that wasn't a shot clutch was a couple weeks ago when my master cylinder went out, the thing would engage under part throttle but if you shifted to go up a hill you were SOL... drove the rest of the 400 miles home without using the clutch pedal if I could avoid using it...

From my experience I would say bad master cylinder, the slave cylinder is just a one way hydraulic cylinder, the master cylinder is the only one with any type of valving...

 

[4x4junkie]

I had something similar happen when my '94 was still under warranty...
The clutch would be fine while the engine was still cold, but as it warmed up, the clutch hydraulics would build pressure (putting the pedal firm against it's upper travel stop) until eventually enough pressure built up and the clutch would no longer engage. Upon parking it and it cooling off, rinse & repeat.

The way I dealt with this until I was able to get it back into the dealer was to slightly open the bleeder screw for a second, a half-teaspoonful or so of fluid would come out, and then the clutch would work perfectly fine until I parked it and it cooled off again.

My problem indeed was the master cyl (likely the bypass valve while the pedal is up was stuck closed). After they replaced the master all has been fine since.

You might try that, see if the clutch seems normal after cracking open the bleeder for a second. If so, then it's probably the same issue I had.

 

[Uriel]

I'm trying to identify and repair a problem with my 1993 Splash. Recently installed a new flywheel, pressure plate, clucth disc and pre-bled slave cylinder kit. The clutch pedal is very high at the top of the pedal "travel". I can barely backup out of my driveway that has a slight incline. It shifts fine when I start moving forward. Also have noise that sounds like a broken baffle in the exhaust at 35mph. Not sure if this is related to the pedal problem. Everything was bought at a local parts store that I've used mant times.

Anybodt have an idea what might be wrong?

Thanks....

Did you ever get a good fix for this? I bought a 96 with the same issue. I only push the pedal down about 2-3" total stroke for clutch engagement and disengagement. The previous owner gave me a song and dance that "it's always been like this". I still need to figure out if I need a new clutch pack or not. If you got a good answer, please tell me! If anyone here that is wise in the ways of Ford clutch magic, please let me know what I need to do. thank you.