Clutch master hyd hose to slave retaining pin stuck

[alwaysFlOoReD]

At the point where the line fits into the slave cylinder, you'll see a white plastic collar. if you push that collar towards the slave, it pushes little clips down out of the way so that you can pull the line back. You can't see the clips until it is apart. There is a special tool that you can find at most auto parts places;

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Quick-Disconnect-Tools/_/R-SER3413_0293962870

but using two flat screwdrivers will work too. A lot of time there is dust and dirt trapped where that collar needs to go, so spraying with wd40 and then air to dislodge the dirt will really help.

 

[Trfsrfr]

@alwaysFlOoReD - Thank you. I am assuming you are talking about this particular style connector;

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

IIRC....yes. Using the tool you pry between the plastic and the brass rib forcing the plastic collar in toward the slave.

 

[Mark_88]

That video shows a different style connector...but as Richard mentioned the two screwdrivers works well...it works best if you can actually push the connector in slightly before applying pressure with the screwdrivers...IIRC...but that is hard to do with just two hands and three things to do...

 

[Andy D]

All that stuff is new in the Rat.With the slave, and the MC was a set of instructions in 2 or 3 languages. Hook the MC up, but don't mount it . Fill it with brake fluid. Tilt the front of the MC down. open the bleeder on the slave. If you get the air out, it will gravity bleed . Fluid will spit out, then run clear. Close it. Mount the MC and hook up the pedal. Top off MC, and you're done. I was forewarned by the guys here. I whined a little, and followed the directions. It wasn't hard and it worked first try.

 

[Trfsrfr]

I read the directions that came with the MC, and also looked at the directions on ebsco, they were the same so I just went ahead and did it that way.
Never again.
Next time I have to repair this thing I will consult the forums first. It's not the biggest hassle (I've been turning wrenches 30 years) but it has added another 2-3 hours to the job.
I removed the inner fender well and removed the thing to bench bleed, and that took 2 hours to fully bleed. The pedal pressure is rock hard now and I can barely push it in by hand.
I am a engineering technician and I will state that this is a piss-poor design. There should have been a bleeder valve at the top of the MC, or they shouldn't have mounted it in that position.
That video I found and posted says it all and explains the system well. I'm glad I found it.
I am going to put it all back together now, and should have it going by the end of the night.
Thanks to all for their advice here. This forum rocks.

 

[Andy D]

Rangers are designed for ease of assembly and the bottom line. They are not designed to be repaired. My clutch job was many hours of hard thrashing to get the stupid thing apart. not Ford's fault. It had spent some time on the beach. Its a wonder the under side works as well as it does. The captive nuts tacked to the fire wall broke loose because the fine thread 6 mm bolts froze up. I replaced the ruins with good ol' 1/4 -20 hardware. Assembly, using new parts from the rear main seal to the pedal arm was pretty easy. It got down to cussedness, I wasn't gonna let a freaken Ford get the better of me. Please, I'm not a hater, I like the Rat. Why else would I have 1800 $ worth of parts in a 1000$ truck

 

[Trfsrfr]

Has anyone lubed their throw-out bearing?

It wasn't too bad of a job, it's done except for the inner fender well.

But now I notice the throw-out bearing squeaks when I push the clutch pedal in.
Has anyone lubed their throw-out bearing, and if so, what is a good method to do it?