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Clutch kits


theAntihero

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
56
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
So im gonna have to replace the slave cylinder here soon and i might as well throw in a new clutch while im at it(as far as i know its still on its original at 216,000 miles). The truck is used as a work truck and isnt used to tow much if at all nor is it used to haul much. I usually try to upgrade whenever im replacing parts but i dont really think i need much better performance than a stock-ish kit, what do you guys think?

Also napa is quoting me 250-ish for the slave and kit, know anywhere were i could get it cheaper?

Thanks
 
So im gonna have to replace the slave cylinder here soon and i might as well throw in a new clutch while im at it(as far as i know its still on its original at 216,000 miles). The truck is used as a work truck and isnt used to tow much if at all nor is it used to haul much. I usually try to upgrade whenever im replacing parts but i dont really think i need much better performance than a stock-ish kit, what do you guys think?

Also napa is quoting me 250-ish for the slave and kit, know anywhere were i could get it cheaper?

Thanks

I only paid around a hundred for the clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing and I think around twentyish for slave on my 88 with 2.9 at autozone and I don't think the 4.0 should be much higher
 
I got a LUK kit on eBay that had the pressure plate, disc, and pilot bearing for $89 including shipping in the USA. They have kits with throwout bearing for around $120.
 
I would replace the flywheel too.
 
I have a hard time using Chinese hardware, I went on line and bought a LUK rep set . But IIRC it was about 200$ delivered. Bought a the master, slave and rear main seal from different sources.But Chinese is hard to avoid. Got flywheel and brake stuff at Auto Zone . Spicer U-joints from a fellow SJ enthusiast. I spent several hours comparing stuff. I've put about 1K$ in new parts into the 600$ Rat. :D
 
I couldnt find anybody to re-surface the FW. I got a Fernco for 70$ at Autozone. Prolly Chinese. I consoled myself that I was getting a new ring gear. I ended up replacing everything from the rear main seal outwards to the pedal. Taking stuff apart was a major PITA, because it was rusted from salt and sitting. I used a lot of nuts and bolts from my BMW parts stash to replace stuff I broke
 
I couldnt find anybody to re-surface the FW. I got a Fernco for 70$ at Autozone. Prolly Chinese. I consoled myself that I was getting a new ring gear. I ended up replacing everything from the rear main seal outwards to the pedal. Taking stuff apart was a major PITA, because it was rusted from salt and sitting. I used a lot of nuts and bolts from my BMW parts stash to replace stuff I broke

I hear you, im stuck between doing it myself and paying the local shop the $375 in labor it takes to get it done.

Ive replaced clutches before but never in a 4wd and dont own a transmission jack.
 
Be very careful if you should decide to do your clutch yourself. This happened to mine when all I planned on was buying a used transmission. IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU! :taunt:

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Last edited:
@panamaexpat, re edit; I prefer to see a fullsize pic like I see in your post. It's an awful lot of work to click on a thumbnail.... not really, but when I'm going thru 150 posts every extra click counts against the time I have so I usually skip thumbnails.
@ OP; I feel that 375 is a fair price. I priced out the job from a local mechanic and was quoted about the same. I had the time so I did my own and ended up breaking three of four manifold to exhaust bolts. It cost me a lot of time to drill out and tap for 'heli-coil' thread repair. I happen to own all the tools for the repair but that would be an extra expense should the same happen to you. The replacement bolts from ford up here cost out at ~$65.00 each:icon_surprised: so I sourced my own stainless bolts for considerably less...~$7.50 each. What you save in bolt cost [because a mechanic will pass on the cost of the stock bolts ] will pay for a generic 'helicoil' kit [~$140.00] that can repair 7 or more sizes of bolts. It all depends on if you like working on vehicles and think the cost of tools are worth it to you.
Good luck,

Richard
 
@alwaysfloored, You are so right about the sheared off bolts issue. That was in part one of the reasons the cab came off. I wanted to pull the manifolds off the motor to remove the sheared bolts. Well that ended up with not only the four bolts to the y pipe sheared but now I have one in the head. WOW... $7.50 each for stainless bolts...and I thought I had it rough at $3 each. I managed to remove 3 of the manifold bolts with LOTS of heat from the torch. One I had to set up on the drill press and bore it out. Couldn't save the threads so I went just large enough to slip a bolt though from the manifold and put a nut on the backside. Thinking of doing that to all four of them so like in the OLD days of studs sticking out of the manifold you cinch the Y pipe on with nuts and washers from below. I am still kind of amazed at how many bolts simply shear off when you take things apart on these older trucks. Oh.. and forget easy outs. I never had any luck with those. So in complete agreement with you if you have a mechanic that is ONLY quoting 375 it might be a benefit to have him do it. But... Don't be surprised if it turns into a bigger bill because of the difficulties that no one plans on.
 
If a flywheel has 216,000 miles, replace it. They aren't that expensive.

I replace the flywheel every time. I'm probably going to replace all of that stuff while doing a rear seal on the Mustang. Looks like springtime will be when I do it though. Not enough funds right now, and it's almost time to quit driving it for the year.
 
I hear you, im stuck between doing it myself and paying the local shop the $375 in labor it takes to get it done.

Ive replaced clutches before but never in a 4wd and dont own a transmission jack.

Woe lucky. My local shop wanted $1200 to replace my clutch. That's why i did it myself. I didst use a transmission jack for my 4x4 :D
 
If a flywheel has 216,000 miles, replace it. They aren't that expensive.

I replace the flywheel every time. I'm probably going to replace all of that stuff while doing a rear seal on the Mustang. Looks like springtime will be when I do it though. Not enough funds right now, and it's almost time to quit driving it for the year.

Maybe where you are flywheels aren't that expensive. Where I live a USED one will run you about 150. Then you still need to have it skimmed. I'll argue with you all day long that replacing the flywheel isn't any better than spending 15 to 20 bucks to have one resurfaced. Unless of course your ring gear is shot but I don't see that very often either.

Also... and this is the redneck talking... In the old days everyone wanted to use lighter flywheels. Resurfacing knocks a few grams off the overall weight. :icon_twisted: Probably not enough to make a significant difference though. :D
 

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