Chevy Axles on a Ranger?

[LittleBigFoot]

So I'm still in the works of finding a solid axle to swap under my IFS Ranger.

I know leaf sprung Waggy D44's are the axle of choice in this case.

I stumbled across a dude on CraigsList with quite a few axles, all from leaf sprung full size Chevys.

All his D44 fronts have disk brakes and are set up for leafs. I'm in the process of finding out the spline count. All are complete hub to hub, with full time hubs, or lockouts. Gear ratios in the low 3's

He's got matching rears for most of the fronts.


Is there any reason that these axles wouldn't work with the correct set up?

These are right in my price range and I'd hate to let this opp. pass.

What can you guys tell me?


Thanks,
Adam

 

[JohnnyU]

Is there any reason that these axles wouldn't work with the correct set up?

If by correct, you include swapping out your transfercase with one that is passenger side output, then no, I see no reason they won't work.

Most Chevy axles are low pinion, passenger side differential.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Thanks JohnnyU

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/425109373.html

Here's the link. A few look like drivers side drop if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Will]

It's upside down.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Bawls. I see that now.

I do my best thinking when I'm under my truck, and having to switch to a P side Tcase would mean having to re do my pipes. It seems more trouble then it's worth. Damn.

 

[projectnitemare]

You won't find a pass side drop RBV t-case either. You would need to put a divorced pass side drop t-case behind your factory one. If he has a 14 bolt rear cheap that is a super strong rear axle.

Matt

 

[THE WHITE RHINO]

or buy a doubler from a ranger case to a flipped dana 300

 

[LittleBigFoot]

hmmmm.

Today I found a Chevy 14bolt 3/4 ton rebuilt axle w/ 3.73s and the Ebrake cables and new shoes for 150.

It's the 8lug, so now I'm on to the question:

Dana 60 front?
Convert the 14 bolt to 6 lug?
Convert the my D44 to 8 lug?
Wheel spacers?


Thanks,
Adam

 

[brendank]

I'd pick up that 14 bolt and try to find a 60. There are also 8 lug D44's around.

Are you staying fullwidth or no?

 

[Todd]

You could always switch the tubes on the diff and make it a driver side drop. Lot more work then finding a driver side drop to start with but I do know people that have done it.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

I had to pass on the 14 bolt, as far as I know that is.... I couldn't find any help to get in in the bed of my other truck, and he wouldn't hold onto it for me. If it's still around next week I'll be sure to kidnapp my friends!

 

[Legion]

u need at least 3 ppl trust me i did this with a full float you have the smaller 14 bolt. weaker my ranger has like a 8-9 inch lift not fun at all.

i got mine for 100 bucks

 

[91 Big Red]

If you really can't find the axle you want in a driver's side input for your truck here is what you can do:

1) remove the axles and ring and pinion assembly from the housing

2) cut the axle tubes about 3 inches away from the center section (the pumpkin)

3) flip the tubes from one side to the other turning your passenger side input axle to a driver's side input axle

here is a tip tho when you weld the tubes back together be sure to bevel the edges and for added strength find 2 pieces of tubing that will slide over the axle tubes snugly, slide them over the tubes before you weild them then weild the tubes together grind the weilds smooth, slide the pieces of tubing over the weilded area and butt them against the pumpkin weild on both ends of the tubing. then its just a matter of putting everything back together keeping your shim packs together exactly how they came out so you don't mess up your backlash and use new pinion bearings and crush sleves. then you have the axle you need

 

[JohnnyU]

Drill out the plug welds and swap the tubes the right way.

 

[projectnitemare]

If you really can't find the axle you want in a driver's side input for your truck here is what you can do:

1) remove the axles and ring and pinion assembly from the housing

2) cut the axle tubes about 3 inches away from the center section (the pumpkin)

3) flip the tubes from one side to the other turning your passenger side input axle to a driver's side input axle

here is a tip tho when you weld the tubes back together be sure to bevel the edges and for added strength find 2 pieces of tubing that will slide over the axle tubes snugly, slide them over the tubes before you weild them then weild the tubes together grind the weilds smooth, slide the pieces of tubing over the weilded area and butt them against the pumpkin weild on both ends of the tubing. then its just a matter of putting everything back together keeping your shim packs together exactly how they came out so you don't mess up your backlash and use new pinion bearings and crush sleves. then you have the axle you need

That might be the worst way to try to swap axle tubes. You are just about guranteed to warp the tube, have it cocked at an angle, or snap it off. The correct way is as JohnnyU said, drill the plug welds out and swap the tubes that way. Most tubes are pressed as well as welded so you might ruin the tube getting it out so you may have to order new tubes but they aren't that expensive. Really you should have a jig built to assure the tubes are in the diff straight while they are welded but if you are careful you don't necessairly need that part. You then can plug weld the tubes and also weld around the tubes preventing them from spinning under high torque loads.

Matt