Change mechanical fuel pump help

[83RangerAuto]

No start with images and video

Ok i have a no start situation that I have isolated to what I think is the answer the fuel pump. The engine turns overs but does not start. I have cruised the forums for weeks trying to fix this problem. It all stated slowly. Sometimes the engine would just quit while driving. Scary but it hadn't done it in a long while.

I have changed the coil/cap/rotor/wires/plugs/ignition module/vacuum hoses out the yang/fuel filter, and a few odds and ends. And still no spark. I tested the fuel pump by fitting a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel line and got 5psi at a couple cranks but the pressure quickly bled. The truck wont run and I can't seem to get the dang bolts off of the fuel pump.

PLEASE anyone tell me the way to remove this piece of crummy engineering. The frame rail and steering box prevent a socket and wrench and the bolts are too close to the body of the pump for crescent wrench.

PLEASE help ranger gurus! I will be working on this truck tomorrow and need direction.

Z

1984 Ranger, 2.3 L, 1bbl Carb, Auto, 2wd, POwer Steering, A/C, Smog crap.

 

[Mark_88]

Never had a problem getting at mine...removing the alternator and bracket might give you a different angle of approach though...if you have power steering that might make a difference since I haven't got that...

But you mentioned no spark...are you not getting spark or was that a reference to not firing? No spark could be timing belt, but your fuel pump runs off the auxilliary shaft so it would have to be turning to get any pressure...meaning the belt is present...

Only other thing I could suggest is to get a low pressure electric pump for about $30 and just go with that...easy to hook up and gives you a bit of peace of mind...I've got two manual pumps if you want them though...one is new, never used...

 

[Mutant Pony]

I am a fan of old stuff like carburators but, I refuse to run a mechanical fuel pump. Many times when the diaphragm ruptures, raw fuel goes dirrectly into the oil. Very bad.
The fuel pump won't keep you from having spark though.

 

[OldJunk]

What motor? what year ? need more info. not much to go on.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

well if the name "83RangerAuto" is anything to go by...id say its an '83. and since he posted in the 4-banger forum...must be a four banger

 

[83RangerAuto]

I'm sorry I mis typed. I have great spark now just not starting. I do have power steering and getting at that damn pump bolt is impossible! GRRR......

 

[83RangerAuto]

Finally got the new pump on thanks to a 3rd elbow and a u-joint extension. There has got to be a better way though. I still have the no start problem though.

 

[83RangerAuto]

I pulled teh plug wires and tested with a spare sparkplug and the spark doesn't seem to "pop" when triggered and teh color isn't as blue /white as I expected. I have replaced all the spark components from the fuel-air-spark combination but it what else can trigger a weak spark?

BTW: I sprayed starting fluid down the carb and it still didn't start. That is why I think it is a spark issue now.

 

[Mark_88]

OK, so the fuel pump is in...good!

So you're getting spark at the plugs? That's another good...

You might want to double-check the firing order since you've changed the wires...it should be 1,3,2,4 going clockwise...simple, and easy enough to mess up since I've done this myself and ended up scratching my head for hours...

Did you change the position of the dizzy at all? A bit forward or back can throw your timing off enough that the truck will just crank over but not fire...if not...ensure the PCV and other vac hoses are connected to where they should be and give it full choke for a couple of cranks before applying any gas...after you spray the starter fluid in the carb...

 

[83RangerAuto]

I didn't move the dizzy at all as far as I could tell. It the cap and wires went pretty quick. I always mark the cap and wires when I remove and replace them. I am positive I got that part right. I am still concerned that the spark output is too low. I mean it should have started with the starter fluid. When I manually pump the throttle linkage there is a much better squirt from the accel. pump on the carb than there was before the fuel pump replacement.

I can't help but suspect the spark side but I have replaced plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil/ignition module. that shopping list should have taken care of the spark as far as my experience suggests.

 

[Mark_88]

This started a few weeks ago from what your first post indicates, and now you've changed just about everything you can but still no joy...

If the spark is there the engine should fire...and it may not be much spark but it doesn't take much on a properly tuned engine (not like it's a flame thrower or anything that I've seen)...

I would suggest just two more things...check the timing and the firing order again...I know it sounds like a simple thing but it is easy to mix the wires up and your truck simply won't fire...if you are getting squat in that regards, rotate the distributor a few degrees counter-clockwise and crank it...then clockwise a few degrees past the original position...if you get bang your timing may be off just enough that you're out of the firing range...

One other question...as it is, are you hearing anything at all in the way of firing...like burps, sputters, or bangs that indicate there is some sort of activitiy in the cylinders...or is it just cranking endlessly with no variations?

 

[83RangerAuto]

On occasion I would get a hiccup but ti sounds small like out of one cylinder. I did throw a timing lighton it and as far as I can tell during startup the timing is near TDC.

 

[Mark_88]

OK...if you're getting any kind of sputter, then everything is working to some degree...and it sounds like your timing may be out slightly...try rotating the dizzy as I mentioned above...only problem with that is the bolt holding it down is a PITA to get at...if you find it's loose, that could be your problem...it's rotating on its' own and throwing the engine off timing...

It's easiest to remove the dist cap and use an extension socket to loosen the bolt...put the dist cap back on and rotate it a few degrees and crank...if you get more activity then try rotating it a bit more in the same direction...not too much though...

You can use a box end socket to tighten it down enough to crank...I think it's 11/16...but sounds like you may have difficulty getting at it from the bottom end like I do when I'm adjusting mine...

 

[83RangerAuto]

I tried turning the dizzy cap and that's a no go. That sucker's tight. I am trying to find what the timing should be at startup but the tech section and my haynes manual doesn't say or I missed it. While I am out there are there any other suggestions for this thing. it's getting nippy here in sunny Florida I gotta work quick or the low 60's temp will chill my beer to below optimal drinking temps.

 

[skippy]

I tried turning the dizzy cap and that's a no go. That sucker's tight. I am trying to find what the timing should be at startup but the tech section and my haynes manual doesn't say or I missed it. While I am out there are there any other suggestions for this thing. it's getting nippy here in sunny Florida I gotta work quick or the low 60's temp will chill my beer to below optimal drinking temps.