Change mechanical fuel pump help

[cckc135r]

So you have changed out pretty much all the ignition parts, put on a new fuel pump. What is the condition of the timing belt? Have you checked the timing with a light? I had a timing belt skip a tooth or two before it broke. This would still allow the fuel pump to operate but may not allow it to fire. Just a thought that you might look in to.

 

[83RangerAuto]

Ok so I check the timing and it appears to be around 4-6 during cranking. Its hard to tell exactly. I did pull the dizzy cap and sure enough the rotor points at #1 when at TDC. So thats good. I can't pull the dam timing belt inspection cap. seems to be bonded with age a very brittle. The truck wants to start. I charged the battery since I had run it down testing differet resolutions yesterday.

in fact i can almost get it to run by vigorously pumping the gas pedal. I am weary of trying this again because I dont want to flood and wash down the cylinder walls.

Still trying to figure this debacle out.

 

[Mark_88]

Ok so I check the timing and it appears to be around 4-6 during cranking. Its hard to tell exactly. I did pull the dizzy cap and sure enough the rotor points at #1 when at TDC. So thats good. I can't pull the dam timing belt inspection cap. seems to be bonded with age a very brittle. The truck wants to start. I charged the battery since I had run it down testing differet resolutions yesterday

in fact i can almost get it to run by vigorously pumping the gas pedal. I am weary of trying this again because I dont want to flood and wash down the cylinder walls.

Still trying to figure this debacle out.

When you say "almost get it running" do you mean it is firing but won't kick fully? That sounds VERY familiar...like it is off by just a tooth on the timing...

I would still suggest trying to rotate the dizzy a few degrees to see if it catches...if it does, you may need to adjust the timing belt or maybe even replace it if you haven't done so...ever...They can stretch and eventually snap if they get old...but if you haven't changed the timing belt it might be a better approach...

When I was having a similar problem, it turned out to be the ground wire inside the distibutor was barely making contact properly...ended up changing the stator and internal wiring including the plug that goes to the wiring connector externally...the ground wire should be just inside the cap on the engine side of the dizzy and if it looks burnt or otherwise worn you may need to replace that...they get hot and melt the plastic coating and eventually just fray to the point of no contact...

The only reason I keep insisting on turning the dizzy even slightly, even though you say it doesn't move, is you can adjust the timing that way and all it takes is to be out a fraction of an inch to give you no start...or loss of power/engine quitting...I've been there enough times to know that it's that simple sometimes...but it could mean your belt is stretched and ready to go...

Anyways, hope this has been helpful...it sounds like you've put in quite a few parts to solve it and you're probably close to getting it going...

 

[83RangerAuto]

Where is this wire that you speak of in the dizzy cap? When I took the cap and rotor again I didn't notice any particular wire that could be loose. Unless you mean a black wire that runs from the 11 o clock position to somewhere in the 4 o clock position? If so should I try to wiggle it or does it com,e loose under the distributor? I will also attempt to regrow that 3rd elbo and loosen the dizzy and turn it ? Is it possible to turn it while the car is running?

 

[Mark_88]

Where is this wire that you speak of in the dizzy cap? When I took the cap and rotor again I didn't notice any particular wire that could be loose. Unless you mean a black wire that runs from the 11 o clock position to somewhere in the 4 o clock position? If so should I try to wiggle it or does it com,e loose under the distributor? I will also attempt to regrow that 3rd elbo and loosen the dizzy and turn it ? Is it possible to turn it while the car is running?

Definitely~ That's how you fine tune the timing...just loosen it off, turn it, and then try cranking it over...if it fires and runs you know your timing could be off...if it doesn't sputter or even bark then turn it the other way...but I always found turning it counter-clockwise worked best...it's advancing your timing slightly...since belts usually slip backwards...

The black wire you describe sounds like the ground, but I'm going from memory...if it doesn't look burnt or otherwise frayed, it's probably not the problem...mine was just hanging one...oh, wait...it was the grommet that goes into the distributor that was messed up, causing the wires to cross...they were melted pretty good and would work...but then cut out...

 

[83RangerAuto]

Well turning the dizzy helped to a point. I think i may need to consider the timing belt now. I will try checking the timing at the point where turning the distributor seemed to help. Still no start though. I gotta get this thin g on the road.

 

[Mark_88]

Hopefully the timing does it for you...I know from experience that it can be a PITA to set properly when the belt jumps for various reasons...I've spent hours tinkering with mine only to find out that I'd done something stupid like letting the belt snap back instead of easing it into place via the tensioner bolt...

Changing the belt might be a good idea as opposed to just playing with checking it or resetting it...

Let us know how it works out or if you stumble on a solution (like a vac line that was left off or something)...

 

[83RangerAuto]

No start with images and video

OK.. The current status:

Opened the inspection cover and set the engine to TDC.
The mark on the cam gear lines up with the other alignment mark perfectly.
I then rotated the engine by hand 4 times and the mark is always aligned. and the Rotor points at #1 plug.

To me this means that the timing is perfect. But she still wont start. Attached are pics

I am not sure where the connector sitting on top of the ignition is supposed to go. I didn't disconnect it.​

This orange connector in the large box on the passenger side Im sure is for hardware not optioned on the truck.​

Timing marks​

Link below for video of the truck trying to start.​

http://www.mediafire.com/?tmmjm1t1zzq

 

[locovaca]

The orange box is your computer diagnostics connector.

 

[Mark_88]

How about the choke? Is it automatic or manual, and did you try holding it closed when you crank the engine?

On my 2.0 setup my truck would die for no apparent reason...but I found that the automatic choke was wonky causing it to close the choke during operation and it wouldn't close it when it was cold...make sure it's closed to start and it should open within a minute or two of fast idle...

 

[83RangerAuto]

Blocking the choke didn't seem to help. Hmm.. here's a symptom I didn't consider. When i turn the key to the run position I can hear a rapid clicking from the carb. l don't know if thats common on these computer controlled carbs.

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmmm...mine didn't click when it was acting out...it just heated super hot and I burned my fingers on the wires when I was reaching around trying to find something else...that's how I discovered it was the choke though...

Could be a solenoid in the carb has been fried though...can you disable the choke and work it manually? The butterfly should move when you first turn on the key...if it doesn't then that could be part of the problem...not sure what else is on your particular carb though because I've always stripped off the electronics and wired the choke manually...

Were you able to fully choke the carb or was it partially opened? Full choke should be full closed...

 

[83RangerAuto]

I am able to fully choke it. The clicking is always there when you turn the key to run though. I assumed it was normal. is there a diagram anywhere that might show how to test and or remove the solenoid I didn't see that in the hayes manual. How does one wire the choke manually?

 

[Mark_88]

It's pretty simple, actually. There are one, two or three screws that hold the choke in place and once you remove those you can remove the choke cap (keep everything in a baggy or something similar in case you want to put it back). There is a linkage to the butterfly that comes off easy enough, then you can simply wire a manual line to it. Sorry, but I don't have any diagrams, but there was a link to a library that has diagrams of all the parts on the engine.

However, at this point I'm not sure if that is the issue (as in you can actually fully choke it). It may be an issue with the carb itself or a vacuum leak.

You've got spark, fuel, and choke...that's it in a nutshell...unless there is something wrong with the way the carb is feeding fuel or there is a serious vacuum leak (like mine). Do you have any recent pics of the carb?

EDIT: Oh, I forgot to mention this....did you check that you had spark at all four plugs? A cracked or wonky distributor cap can cause that...I had one that I thought was new but one of the caps where the plug wire connects was actually broken and the spark was not getting through properly...and that was a $28 cap right out of the box...

 

[83RangerAuto]

The cap is new as is the plugs and wires. I will check them just to be sure though. The clicking is still a thought nagging at me. I amwondering if what ever is clicking is replaceable.