Can't Get '85 2.8 to run

[ford4wd08]

One last thing. Does anyone know what size screw that holds the TFI on the distributor? I dropped one yesterday and it has yet to resurface. I know it has a 7/32 hex head. I'll try magneting around for it, but would like to get some spares.

If anyone has some laying around, I'll gladly buy them from you.

 

[1984ranger28]

One last thing. Does anyone know what size screw that holds the TFI on the distributor? I dropped one yesterday and it has yet to resurface. I know it has a 7/32 hex head. I'll try magneting around for it, but would like to get some spares.

If anyone has some laying around, I'll gladly buy them from you.

I still have my old distributor with the TFI still on it in case youre interested.

 

[fastpakr]

I -think- it's 5/16-18 but not sure.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

The hex head size should be 5.5mm and takes a special thin wall socket to remove in most cases. Or you can put a 5.5mm socket on an extension and "turn it down" using a bench grinder.

Various Google forum search results say: the thread size is either Metric M4 x 0.7 x 12mm or M4 x .04 x 12.0mm and Ford part number -n801293-s36

Different models came with different screws though. Some were phillips head, some were T20 torx, and some were the 7/32" or 5.5mm hex size

 

[ford4wd08]

The hex head size should be 5.5mm and takes a special thin wall socket to remove in most cases. Or you can put a 5.5mm socket on an extension and "turn it down" using a bench grinder.

Various Google forum search results say: the thread size is either Metric M4 x 0.7 x 12mm or M4 x .04 x 12.0mm and Ford part number -n801293-s36

Different models came with different screws though. Some were phillips head, some were T20 torx, and some were the 7/32" or 5.5mm hex size

I have the special socket. I just dropped the screw! I might can find it, I'll grab a magnet and see what I can find.

I would just like a couple of spares to lie around.....

 

[Bird76Mojo]

A magnet on a telescoping stick and those little telescoping inspection mirrors come in awfully handy on things like this...

https://www.amazon.com/VASTOOLS-Telescopic-Magnetic-Pickup-Extendable/dp/B07CNTC6XG/?tag=959media-20

https://www.amazon.com/SE-8014TM-Telescoping-Inspection-Mirror/dp/B001HBY8YK?tag=959media-20

You might also give this some thought: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/remote_tfi.shtml

 

[ford4wd08]

So to bring closure to this issue, I found the root cause of the not running issue!

I had ordered a ignition switch to replace as it was only $10 shipped from rock auto, but that ended up not being my issue.

As many of you may already know, in the steering column, the ignition is control by the switch which is turned while a plunger pushes a small black plastic block over a larger white plastic block which both have electrical contacts (not sure of real part name). As the black block slides over the white block it completes the circuit in certain keyed positions.

My larger white block had come loose from the bracket that holds it in it's place, so it was only completing the circuit in the start position. This is why none of my gauges or radio worked in the run or accessories position either. Once I got both blocks out, I cleaned contacts with carb cleaner and made sure they didn't have any corrosion on them, reinstalled them, and bam everything works!

I now have keyed control to my ignition and all accessories. Engine starts up and runs great (choke might need a little adjustment).

Now I have to fix the transmission leaking issue, which appears to be getting worse. I am going to pull the trans in the garage hopefully starting this week. Plan is to replace the rear main seal and the trans seal at the same time.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thanks for the update.

 

[ford4wd08]

So to bring closure to this issue, I found the root cause of the not running issue!

I had ordered a ignition switch to replace as it was only $10 shipped from rock auto, but that ended up not being my issue.

As many of you may already know, in the steering column, the ignition is control by the switch which is turned while a plunger pushes a small black plastic block over a larger white plastic block which both have electrical contacts (not sure of real part name). As the black block slides over the white block it completes the circuit in certain keyed positions.

My larger white block had come loose from the bracket that holds it in it's place, so it was only completing the circuit in the start position. This is why none of my gauges or radio worked in the run or accessories position either. Once I got both blocks out, I cleaned contacts with carb cleaner and made sure they didn't have any corrosion on them, reinstalled them, and bam everything works!

I now have keyed control to my ignition and all accessories. Engine starts up and runs great (choke might need a little adjustment).

Now I have to fix the transmission leaking issue, which appears to be getting worse. I am going to pull the trans in the garage hopefully starting this week. Plan is to replace the rear main seal and the trans seal at the same time.

Felt like updating this....

So the item pictured is the ignition switch, I was thinking of the key lock cylinder when I posted this a while back. The are two separate assemblies that operate the ignition circuit.

You can still buy the ignition switch OEM and aftermarket. Do yourself a favor and buy it, you will have issues until you replace it, like I did lol.

Pics for old vs new and the issue is the one with the gap, causes a short in the circuit and will randomly kill your ignition circuit and kill the engine.

 

[Shran]

I can't tell you how many of those dumb ass things I've replaced. The little tabs on the end hold the whole deal together, if you squeeze the plastic part back in and tap the tabs back in place with a hammer it'll be fine...for a while. Unfortunately the new switches are the same design as the old switches...so they are prone to failure too.

 

[ford4wd08]

I can't tell you how many of those dumb ass things I've replaced. The little tabs on the end hold the whole deal together, if you squeeze the plastic part back in and tap the tabs back in place with a hammer it'll be fine...for a while. Unfortunately the new switches are the same design as the old switches...so they are prone to failure too.

Yeah I hammered it back together for about a year. Finally old one just wouldn't cut it anymore. I didn't know you could replace it until recently lol.