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Can't Get '85 2.8 to run
- Thread starter ford4wd08
- Start date
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
That makes a lot of sense. I wasn't having any luck with the sight I was using!
I will use the pointer from now on!
Thanks for all the info. I'll give it a try in the next couple of days.
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
I got spark on the spark tester. I assumed the TFI still works for now?
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
So my update for today....
I removed distributor cap and felt in cylinder #1 with spark plug removed for compression as I rotated the engine. According to a mark on the balancer and distributor rotor, it appeared to be close. I assume that if it is in the ball park that it will run.
Still cant get it to run.
So first question, if I am getting spark at the cylinder, I assume that that the TFI is ok? I comfirmed that i had spark again tonight with the tester.
Second question, where is the distributor clamp down bolt? Is it in the same direction as the distrubutor shaft, or does it cross the shaft at 90 degrees to clamp. Does anyone have a picture of it?
Third question, is there any gremlins from the feedback carb system I haven't addressed yet?
I'm not exactly sure where to go from here. I have asked one of my buddies to come over and take a look with me on saturday night.
We will start by confirming timing for sure.
I removed distributor cap and felt in cylinder #1 with spark plug removed for compression as I rotated the engine. According to a mark on the balancer and distributor rotor, it appeared to be close. I assume that if it is in the ball park that it will run.
Still cant get it to run.
So first question, if I am getting spark at the cylinder, I assume that that the TFI is ok? I comfirmed that i had spark again tonight with the tester.
Second question, where is the distributor clamp down bolt? Is it in the same direction as the distrubutor shaft, or does it cross the shaft at 90 degrees to clamp. Does anyone have a picture of it?
Third question, is there any gremlins from the feedback carb system I haven't addressed yet?
I'm not exactly sure where to go from here. I have asked one of my buddies to come over and take a look with me on saturday night.
We will start by confirming timing for sure.
The distributor clamp or hold-down should just be a simple plate of steel with a single bolt through it. Much like small block Ford and small block Chevy V8's always had. The bolt is parallel to the distributor shaft. It tightens down on to the hold down plate. Sounds like you may be missing it altogether.
It should look something like this, but not nearly as shiny or fancy. More of a stamped steel piece, but the same basic shape:
If you're missing yours completely, surely we have a nice member here that will send you one.
It depends on how close the rotor is to where it should be. Saying "close" on an internet forum can mean many things to many people.. Not trying to be insulting here...
You never said that you confirmed your firing order on your plug wires.. Check to make double sure that the correct plug wires are going to the correct cylinders.
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.html
If you ever have to pull the distributor out, it might not hurt to have a look at the drive gear at the bottom of it. Be sure the roll pin that holds it to the shaft isn't broken. Holding the rotor and trying to turn the gear will tell you if anything is funky there, as well as a good visual inspection.
As for the TFI, it should be fine if you have spark. When TFI modules fail, it's usually when the truck is hot, and sometimes they'll restart just fine after they've cooled down. Then they'll die again when hot.
It should look something like this, but not nearly as shiny or fancy. More of a stamped steel piece, but the same basic shape:
If you're missing yours completely, surely we have a nice member here that will send you one.
It depends on how close the rotor is to where it should be. Saying "close" on an internet forum can mean many things to many people.. Not trying to be insulting here...
You never said that you confirmed your firing order on your plug wires.. Check to make double sure that the correct plug wires are going to the correct cylinders.
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.html
If you ever have to pull the distributor out, it might not hurt to have a look at the drive gear at the bottom of it. Be sure the roll pin that holds it to the shaft isn't broken. Holding the rotor and trying to turn the gear will tell you if anything is funky there, as well as a good visual inspection.
As for the TFI, it should be fine if you have spark. When TFI modules fail, it's usually when the truck is hot, and sometimes they'll restart just fine after they've cooled down. Then they'll die again when hot.
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Distributor is held in place by a "Y" type clamp with a bolt into the block
Looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...DJeOh7AJACyWM2ZsLqnM-t1BGe_OAEJ6H8qOB8urXorHm
Or this: https://contentinfo.autozonepro.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/msd/8010/image/3/
Distributor has a ring where it meets the block clamp sits on top of that and bolt clamps it down so it can't spin
Picture here: https://www.cartechbooks.com/media/wysiwyg/techtips/fordignition/4_edited.gif
Not 2.8l
Looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...DJeOh7AJACyWM2ZsLqnM-t1BGe_OAEJ6H8qOB8urXorHm
Or this: https://contentinfo.autozonepro.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/msd/8010/image/3/
Distributor has a ring where it meets the block clamp sits on top of that and bolt clamps it down so it can't spin
Picture here: https://www.cartechbooks.com/media/wysiwyg/techtips/fordignition/4_edited.gif
Not 2.8l
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
Thank you both for the responses.
I did confirm the firing order on the distributor cap when I installed the new wires.
I found one 13 mm bolt next to the distributor and removed it, but it didn't have anything like the "y" clamp you showed me pictures of one it.
This one bolt was about 2 or 3 inches long..... Not sure if it was the correct one or not. It was towards the passenger side cylinders (to the left of the distributor). Maybe it was an intake manifold bolt??
I will try to take some pictures tonight when I get home.
When the clamp is removed, I should be able to pull the distributor out of the block correct?
I did confirm the firing order on the distributor cap when I installed the new wires.
I found one 13 mm bolt next to the distributor and removed it, but it didn't have anything like the "y" clamp you showed me pictures of one it.
This one bolt was about 2 or 3 inches long..... Not sure if it was the correct one or not. It was towards the passenger side cylinders (to the left of the distributor). Maybe it was an intake manifold bolt??
I will try to take some pictures tonight when I get home.
When the clamp is removed, I should be able to pull the distributor out of the block correct?
I doubt the distributor hold-down bolt is that long, but I've seen stranger things. I'd guess it's an intake manifold bolt.. The bolt you're looking for, or lack of a bolt and an empty hole, should be within an inch or two of the distributor shaft.
Yes, with the hold down removed, you should be able to pull the distributor, but they can be stubborn to pull if they've been in place for a long time, and they may have a lot of oily, crusty build-up around the hole in the block they go in to. Clean around the bottom of the distributor shaft very thoroughly before you remove it. You don't want anything falling in to the block through that hole. That hole leads directly to the gear on the camshaft that drives the distributor.
Yes, with the hold down removed, you should be able to pull the distributor, but they can be stubborn to pull if they've been in place for a long time, and they may have a lot of oily, crusty build-up around the hole in the block they go in to. Clean around the bottom of the distributor shaft very thoroughly before you remove it. You don't want anything falling in to the block through that hole. That hole leads directly to the gear on the camshaft that drives the distributor.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
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- Vehicle Year
- '06, '11
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- 3.0 V6
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Most carbs I'm familiar with; lightly seat the valves, back out 1 1/2 turns, then adjust for highest idle one side at a time.
1984ranger28
Well-Known Member
You did take out an intake manifold bolt. The one for the distributor is only about an inch long and is behind the distributor.
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
So, I looked at it again this morning.
I found the timing marks on the balancer on the front of the crank.
I set it, best I could tell, to 12 degrees BTDC.
Still won't run.... Maybe I need to go back through the fuel system? Maybe I missed something? I'm at a loss here.
I know the mechanical fuel pump is filling up the bowl as it flooded the carb and ran onto the engine when I had the float set wrong. When I pulled the top cover of the carb off (I believe it is called the air horn cover) I could pull the throttle cable and see the accelerator pump spray fuel over the carb throat.
Is there anything on the 2150A carb on the electric side that could keep it from running?
I can understand it might not run great from old electric components on the carb, but I would expect it to run anyhow if it get fuel spark?
On another note, I have noticed a lot of my interior items don't work anymore, blinkers, map light, clock above head, the interior heater fan works on the highest setting, or the radio. I assume all this is just old and needs to be replaced. I don't believe it has anything to do with B2 not starting.
I found the timing marks on the balancer on the front of the crank.
I set it, best I could tell, to 12 degrees BTDC.
Still won't run.... Maybe I need to go back through the fuel system? Maybe I missed something? I'm at a loss here.
I know the mechanical fuel pump is filling up the bowl as it flooded the carb and ran onto the engine when I had the float set wrong. When I pulled the top cover of the carb off (I believe it is called the air horn cover) I could pull the throttle cable and see the accelerator pump spray fuel over the carb throat.
Is there anything on the 2150A carb on the electric side that could keep it from running?
I can understand it might not run great from old electric components on the carb, but I would expect it to run anyhow if it get fuel spark?
On another note, I have noticed a lot of my interior items don't work anymore, blinkers, map light, clock above head, the interior heater fan works on the highest setting, or the radio. I assume all this is just old and needs to be replaced. I don't believe it has anything to do with B2 not starting.
Attachments
Is it not Firing at all?
Or just not starting?
Could distributor be 180deg off?
Was distributor ever pulled out?
#1 spark firing on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke is 180deg off
You would rotate engine to the timing mark again
Rotor in distributor will be pointed at #1 wire OR.......#5 wire
If on #1 lift up distributor and turn rotor to point at #5
If on #5 lift up distributor and turn rotor to point at #1
This changes spark timing 180deg
Or just not starting?
Could distributor be 180deg off?
Was distributor ever pulled out?
#1 spark firing on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke is 180deg off
You would rotate engine to the timing mark again
Rotor in distributor will be pointed at #1 wire OR.......#5 wire
If on #1 lift up distributor and turn rotor to point at #5
If on #5 lift up distributor and turn rotor to point at #1
This changes spark timing 180deg
ford4wd08
Well-Known Member
My spark tester is lighting up as it turns over, so I am going to say that confirms spark.
That is my last guess that the distributor is 180 degrees out.
I dont know how to tell the difference in exhuast vs compression stroke without taking a valve cover off? I honestly need another set of hands to help.
I have a friend coming over on Saturday morning to help out.
I'll give it another try on Saturday and report back results.
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