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Cab mounts


Denisefwd93

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
2,261
City
South East PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Looking to do the rt front.. but looks like they all need new rubber or poly.

Are the cab/body mounts bolts welded in or do they spin?

Are the bolts hardware/ home store ok?

I do have; nut splitter (works great!) Sawzall, and or cutoff wheel grinder.

I don't have; the energy desire or wish to even do this

These ok? Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK/?tag=959media-20
 
If I understand correctly. The bolts spin. There is a plug filling the hole to access the top side bolt head. The bottom is a nut, large washer, and spacer combined. I ended up cutting a few apart due to rust welding the pieces together. If you use a zip disc wear a full face shield and neck protection....don't ask how I know.
 
Thanks, just not looking forward to this job. J. Duff sells em too. Would that be a better choice?
 
They are easy to drill/resize. They also make really good jack stand insulators to go between the frame and jack stand to keep from bending the pinch welds on unit body cars, or keep from scratching the frame on others. I haven't made any body mounts yet but will report how once I've done it.
 
The duff kit comes with the hardware which at this point you will probably need. Isolators are softer than hockey pucks, I wouldn’t even mess with them.
 
The duff kit comes with the hardware which at this point you will probably need. Isolators are softer than hockey pucks, I wouldn’t even mess with them.
They are basically half inch bolts right? of which already have some from other projects over the years
 
Want to re-visit this topic. Truck rattles bad!
 
The rear 4 mount bushings just set on the brackets and are there. The bolts hang down from, up top and the nuts go on the bottom.

The front one there is a threaded washer in the middle and the bolt faces up, threads onto that washer, and the nut goes on the top.

Hardware store hardware can be used if you want.
 
Still intrigued about the hockey pucks ?
It does seem it's cheaper to buy a "set" ($60-80) than individual at the Auto stores ($40ish)
I think I used the same link in the beginning of the thread

Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK/?tag=959media-20
Need to determine what the stock distance frame to cab was? Then I can get a perception and how much lift I need/want?


I read lots of pro and con about body lift pads, not that I want a ladder to get in the, truck but I think we determined having a slight lift is a good thing.
 
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A small body lift isn't bad. About 2 inches and under doesn't cause much trouble and helps access to many things. Most than that and you get into needing extenders, and spacers, and the like.

I was amazed at how much better access was just replacing the worn out original bushings without even putting any lift in it.


The hockey pucks are OK, not as durable as a wood block, but they ride a little better.
 
I'm sinking sawzall with metal cutting blades might be the best routine for these? I have still have to right angle grinders with & cutting wheels from when we built the cradle trailer for my sailboat but I'm beyond doing most of this by myself I'm just trying to save money where I can of course.
 
For the front two maybe. Try them first. The rear 4 are all fairly easy to reach both ends from just sitting/kneeling at the door of the truck. The middle ones are right in front of the seats.
 
what should I expect to pay my mechanic to do this? Because ...my carpal tunnel has flared up in both of my hands recently from working on the boat that I'm building.. oh the pain...?
 

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