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Busted front shaft, what the heck...


i had an entire set of shafts get egged out with full-clips, and i ended up breaking 3 of those shafts, i figured it was because i continued to run like that.

i have since gone to tacked caps as i stated, and haven't had a problem since, and i've done a lot more hardcore ish than i was doing when i broke/egged the other axles.

my beam window is clearanced A TON, and i am bump stopped.. i have cycled without the coils and have NO rubbing of shafts up front.. i did this all before when i built the front shafts the first time..

my yokes are egged to the point of the caps slipping in and out by hand, and from what i've seen on my truck, when they get that bad, something is gonna break.
 
Make sure nothing binds. That's the best way to keep from busting joints. Grind that window out until your head fits through it. The forklift thing is good, but it doesn't take dynamic loads into account. It will go much further when you are trying to goose it out of a 2-wheel teeter then just holding a wheel up.
 
I bet they got egged from when they were binding on the beam window.

The shaft I had got egged from the trunnion distorting it after spitting a cap. The cap was still tight enough to prevent me pushing it through with my finger, but I could tap it through just using a screwdriver handle.
I ran it like that for maybe 1½ years before I swapped it out while upgrading to 760s.

The coil clip in that pic I believe was Superlift. They're pretty cheap ($12 pr. IIRC). You could so easily make them out of some 1" wide x 3/16" thick strip steel though.

d44s are 30 spline from everything i've ever seen, at least the axles are.

Not the slip yoke or the stubs
 
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I have found that two “good” tack welds are better then four. If you have four tacks chances are due to the orientation of placement at least two of the tacks will be on the sides of the yoke. Illustrated in red. Placing tack welds here, the heat-effected zone has adverse effects on the shafts performance. They fail right at the tack.

I run two long tacks shown it yellow. Placed in this orientation the heat-effected zone does not effect the shaft as much.

I burn all mine at 90 amps AC, dragging the puddle in a small circle using 1/8” 6013 rod.

n6606282_31363961_5656.jpg
 
Stock engine damper (4.0L).

Not fully sure what it's purpose is (probably something to do with the engine moving while under torque).

--too slow lol
 
I bet they got egged from when they were binding on the beam window.

those shafts never saw beam window bind, they were a new set of shafts, press fit caps.. before i installed the 760x's i clearanced the window.. and havent done a thing to it since i put in the set of shafts with tacked caps, yet the tacked caps lasted and the full clips didnt.

i may have just screwed up grinding the clearance for the full clips, maybe i took too much material off or something, who knows..

oh and i also ground the slip yoke female stub for greater operating angle, on both sets (and broke the first one with full clips)...


i dunno, i just break everything, and i have no bind.
 
maybe a truetrac in front and locker in back would be more your style.easier on the front anyway
 
maybe a truetrac in front and locker in back would be more your style.easier on the front anyway

i have been very easy on it, all the trails i used to beat it on, are now easy, and require no bumping, no throttling.. it just crawls with the lockers.. i lost that coil fucking around 2wd, where i needed some momentum :)
 
yeah i hear ya,i noticed a big difference with just the rear lock-right.debating on wether its worth all the broken front shit though (hmmmn thoughts of a d44 cross my mind especially factoring in the cost of superrunner and other shit needed for the height and reliability i want)
 
Many say lockers add a lot of stress on the shafts (and is true if you look at it from certain aspects), but the simple fact you can go slow and crawl up stuff with some finesse (rather than just blasting through with momentum, bouncing around all over the place) certainly does allow the shafts to survive many times longer.


I dunno, maybe I'm just lucky then. I've yet to egg out a shaft (other than losing a cap the one time). I've broken some 297s (sheared trunnion and several spit c-clips & caps), and one shaft at the spline.
 
Many say lockers add a lot of stress on the shafts (and is true if you look at it from certain aspects), but the simple fact you can go slow and crawl up stuff with some finesse (rather than just blasting through with momentum, bouncing around all over the place) certainly does allow the shafts to survive many times longer.


I dunno, maybe I'm just lucky then. I've yet to egg out a shaft (other than losing a cap the one time). I've broken some 297s (sheared trunnion and several spit c-clips & caps), and one shaft at the spline.

man, i really don't know why i destroyed that first set of shafts.. but all i DO know is that with the tacked caps, i've run these shafts 3 times as long as the set before.. and if it wasn't for the coil popping out while trying to show off in 2wd--i wouldn't have had ANY problems.

any trail i struggled on before, is a complete breeze now with the lockers and 760xs, i dont even really need to pick a line, i just drive straight over stuff, i even pull other trucks up the stuff i used to struggle on!
 

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