Bulletproof 7.5"

[koda6966]

Definitely go with a 31 spline 8.8, if you manage to break that with your 2wd 3.0 your doing something wrong.

 

[Surrey]

14" Wheels? and how tiny are your tires to go with those?


I would never spend the money on a locker for a 7.5. Weld it up, and call it a day. For the money you'd pay for a 7.5 locker, you can probably get an 8.8 in good shape and a used locker for it. Or a brand new mini spool.

 

[Captain Ledd]

...I don't need fancy brakes, just some regular drums will do fine.

I was talking about drums. Regular 'ol factory replacement stuff.

I know the costs because I'm currently building an Explorer 8.8" to swap. 4.56 gears, ARB, install kit, bearings, seals, u-bolts, and brakes and I'm hovering around $1600.

14" Wheels? and how tiny are your tires to go with those?.

likely 225/75R14 or is it 70? somewhere in there. Remember this is a 2wd, they got the 14" wheels. But if he has any intention of upping the tire size to anything other than a big station wagon tire, he'll splurge for some 15" rims. Even larger than stock a 14" rim will still have a small tire.

 

[4.0B2]

weld it for now.. and focus on building an 8.8 for when the 7.5 breaks. and if it doesn't, sale the 8.8 or swap it anyways

and disc brakes are factory.. for 97+ ex's

 

[RollinWOT]

The 14's are factory rims. Anyway, I think I'll pick up an 8.8" of the time and wallet permits. Right now my wallet is a container for my pet moths, but once I get some cash I should get one. So will the 8.8" bolt onto my factory driveshaft? I've heard yes and no. This is all just future plans, but for right now my 7.5" will do ok I guess. I have been building axles for a long time, but I'm just not too familiar with the ford section on axles, I've been doing mostly veedubs, chevys, and dodges. Right now, I'm flying by the seat of my pants.

 

[Andres629]

Should bolt up... it did on my '92... if not, just grab you another rear driveshaft yoke, easy to come buy.

 

[ronclark]

8.8" Explorer axle. Dont waste your time and money on a 7.5, the parts to make 'em good probably dont even exist. For instance, you can't get a spool or mini spool. (Havn't looked for other crap. can't even spool it, means Im getting rid of it.)

Find someone parting an explorer out on Craigslist and pick up the axle for $100 or so. Junkyards can be a good source too.

My truck has a 7.5 behind my 4.0L swap. i am not going to do anything with it. just waiting for it to break. then explorer 8.8 all the way

 

[RollinWOT]

Sounds like I have an 8.8" in my future then!

 

[RollinWOT]

When my wallet is no longer a container for my moths, that is.

 

[dangerranger83]

My truck years ago had one of the spiders explode during normal driving on stock tires. Didnt relize it had broken until we heard cluncking in the rear followed by a nice gash in the rear diff cover from one of the chucks flying out of it.

Right now Im runninng 33's on my 7.5 and all is good so far.

 

[Captain Ledd]

So will the 8.8" bolt onto my factory driveshaft? I've heard yes and no.

Well it is Yes and no. Some driveshafts fit, others don't. I'm using an older driveshaft for my Ranger project and it's smaller than the 8.8" flange. BUT, the centering rings are all the same size, so I took the flange to the local machine shop and had them drill 4 new holes the spacing I needed. $20 later, problem solved.

Most should fit off the get-go, but even if it doesn't it's an easy fix. You also have the option of a correct flange and a conversion u-joint (again, if necessary).

 

[BlackBII]

I'll just throw this out there...

I've been running a 7.5" with 4.56 gears and locker, with a 4.0 and 35" tires for over 4 years now. Never had a single problem.

 

[Surrey]

I'll just throw this out there...

I've been running a 7.5" with 4.56 gears and locker, with a 4.0 and 35" tires for over 4 years now. Never had a single problem.

You my friend must have the best luck in the world.

 

[4.0B2]

and must be nice to the skinny pedal, but if it works for you continue to rock it

 

[RollinWOT]

Ive got the one piece aluminum driveshaft with regular U-joints and the steel flange. That seems like it should bolt up, right?