Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 88fordman
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2011
- Messages
- 11
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Transmission
- Manual
first let me apologize in advance, i have numerous mental health issues and i am on medication as i write this, so sorry if I'm all over the place. i will try to write this as concisely as possible.
History - 88 ford ranger, 2.3L engine, 2wd, 5sp manual transmission, extended cab. my truck began loosing pressure in the brakes, like the pedal would hit the floor and there was no stopping power, to stop you would have to pump the brakes until you got a solid bite and the calipers engaged. the truck would build pressure in the brakes when not started, but once started the pressure would be gone, pedal to the floor or very close to it. i assumed there was a leak some where but didn't look into the issue further because i was super busy with work and had a second vehicle. previously the truck also did this and i replaced the master brake assembly which solved the problem. it sat parked at my house for some time without me driving it or starting, enough that the battery died and i had to get a new one. well after i had started it and drove it the brake pressure was suddenly there again, but this time i noticed the front left brake stayed "on" i would smell brunt brakes and the truck wouldn't drive straight, and wouldn't brake straight either. throwing water on the front left would cause the water to boil and stem. the front right brake was unaffected, cold to the touch and throwing water on them didn't produce a result. the truck sat parked, but still being started, i would press the brakes numerous times when the truck was started and drive it back and fourth about 25 feet. eventually i noticed fluid dripping from the front left brake that was still stuck open. i took off the caliper from the rotor and noticed the rubber was cracked around the piston, this is where the fluid was coming from. i removed the caliper and plugged up the brake line. now braking pressure was restored, i drove it for a longer than usual drive and front right brake started doing the same thing, staying open, same as the front left.
Issue -I was the one that posted about bleeding two new front brake calipers, the issue now is that after some time of using the brakes, they get stuck and are constantly "on" like the truck struggles to over power them and greatly needs a lot more RPM to over come the force of the brakes being "on" this leads to the whole rim and hub (for both of them) getting extremely hot, like you throw water on them and it instantly boils and steams. even the lug nuts were steaming. i parked it at my house after it did this and applied water to cool down the parts hoping to prevent damage to the tire or brake lines. i had replaced both calipers as well as the brake pads, and yes I'm sure both were installed correctly. and i bleed the system using two big cans of brake fluid just to make sure there was not air in the lines. however i didn't clean the rotors and forget to grease the caliper pins before installing (i was in a hurry), a day later and the brakes went back to normal position. i know this because i drove it around the block for an hour normally, but just using the parking brake to stop. even on the slightest incline or decline, while in neutral, the truck would roll, no braking resistance. i stopped and let the truck idle an additional 20 minutes and checked the temperature in both the front wheels during that time. they were cool to the touch. i drove it again for an additional 20 minutes in the same manner and it acted the same way, and the wheels were cool to the touch. then i began using the brake pedal and not soon after i noticed they were on somewhat, the truck in neutral didn't roll away or stopped, i didn't allow the brakes to become fully on like last time because i don't want to cause further damage, but I'm sure if i continued it would have happened, i could feel them becoming more and more stuck open, the more frequently i braked.
solution(s) - I've checked all lines for the brake master assembly and brake booster and made sure there was no leakage, all were nice and tight, clean and dry. how can i test to see what's causing my brakes to stay open? i read a bad brake booster can cause the brakes to be applied even if the pedal isn't pressed, this is why i drove it with only using the parking brake to stop. how else can i test the brake booster. also another member wrote a kink in the brake line will allow adequate brake pressure for stopping, but will delay the pressure releasing. hence why the brakes stay engaged and "reset" after a day of no use.
sorry for the long post, its part of my condition to be super detailed. but I'm at the limit of my ability to perform my own brake changes or diagnosis, any help would be greatly appreciated. especially because my father, the original owner of the vehicle and the man that taught me basically everything about vehicles today is old and frail and suffers from dementia and Alzheimer's. i wanna see my baby run in tip top shape once again and take him for a ride in her once a again. let him drive her in an open filed again once again (on his good days)
History - 88 ford ranger, 2.3L engine, 2wd, 5sp manual transmission, extended cab. my truck began loosing pressure in the brakes, like the pedal would hit the floor and there was no stopping power, to stop you would have to pump the brakes until you got a solid bite and the calipers engaged. the truck would build pressure in the brakes when not started, but once started the pressure would be gone, pedal to the floor or very close to it. i assumed there was a leak some where but didn't look into the issue further because i was super busy with work and had a second vehicle. previously the truck also did this and i replaced the master brake assembly which solved the problem. it sat parked at my house for some time without me driving it or starting, enough that the battery died and i had to get a new one. well after i had started it and drove it the brake pressure was suddenly there again, but this time i noticed the front left brake stayed "on" i would smell brunt brakes and the truck wouldn't drive straight, and wouldn't brake straight either. throwing water on the front left would cause the water to boil and stem. the front right brake was unaffected, cold to the touch and throwing water on them didn't produce a result. the truck sat parked, but still being started, i would press the brakes numerous times when the truck was started and drive it back and fourth about 25 feet. eventually i noticed fluid dripping from the front left brake that was still stuck open. i took off the caliper from the rotor and noticed the rubber was cracked around the piston, this is where the fluid was coming from. i removed the caliper and plugged up the brake line. now braking pressure was restored, i drove it for a longer than usual drive and front right brake started doing the same thing, staying open, same as the front left.
Issue -I was the one that posted about bleeding two new front brake calipers, the issue now is that after some time of using the brakes, they get stuck and are constantly "on" like the truck struggles to over power them and greatly needs a lot more RPM to over come the force of the brakes being "on" this leads to the whole rim and hub (for both of them) getting extremely hot, like you throw water on them and it instantly boils and steams. even the lug nuts were steaming. i parked it at my house after it did this and applied water to cool down the parts hoping to prevent damage to the tire or brake lines. i had replaced both calipers as well as the brake pads, and yes I'm sure both were installed correctly. and i bleed the system using two big cans of brake fluid just to make sure there was not air in the lines. however i didn't clean the rotors and forget to grease the caliper pins before installing (i was in a hurry), a day later and the brakes went back to normal position. i know this because i drove it around the block for an hour normally, but just using the parking brake to stop. even on the slightest incline or decline, while in neutral, the truck would roll, no braking resistance. i stopped and let the truck idle an additional 20 minutes and checked the temperature in both the front wheels during that time. they were cool to the touch. i drove it again for an additional 20 minutes in the same manner and it acted the same way, and the wheels were cool to the touch. then i began using the brake pedal and not soon after i noticed they were on somewhat, the truck in neutral didn't roll away or stopped, i didn't allow the brakes to become fully on like last time because i don't want to cause further damage, but I'm sure if i continued it would have happened, i could feel them becoming more and more stuck open, the more frequently i braked.
solution(s) - I've checked all lines for the brake master assembly and brake booster and made sure there was no leakage, all were nice and tight, clean and dry. how can i test to see what's causing my brakes to stay open? i read a bad brake booster can cause the brakes to be applied even if the pedal isn't pressed, this is why i drove it with only using the parking brake to stop. how else can i test the brake booster. also another member wrote a kink in the brake line will allow adequate brake pressure for stopping, but will delay the pressure releasing. hence why the brakes stay engaged and "reset" after a day of no use.
sorry for the long post, its part of my condition to be super detailed. but I'm at the limit of my ability to perform my own brake changes or diagnosis, any help would be greatly appreciated. especially because my father, the original owner of the vehicle and the man that taught me basically everything about vehicles today is old and frail and suffers from dementia and Alzheimer's. i wanna see my baby run in tip top shape once again and take him for a ride in her once a again. let him drive her in an open filed again once again (on his good days)
