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Brake booster delete


smilinjack

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
134
City
rochester, mi
Vehicle Year
1995
Engine
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
2"
Tire Size
315 /35- 17
My credo
Always bite off more than you can chew!! :)
Hope this finds everybody healthy! Need to delete vacuum booster on my '95 non-abs Ranger. I've converted to a QA 1 K member and the strut towers now take up some of that space! So, I can weasel the master cylinder on to the firewall (barely) BUT I'm not comfortable with the pushrod from the pedal not having a guide to keep it's (the pushrod) travel true. When using the vacuum canister the pushrod travel was guided straight. No slop! Any suggestions?? Adapters, Brands, Options??? Thanks
 
45058
 
Thanks for that pic! Would you happen to know if that would mount on the existing bracket? I have a clutch too.
 
No it wouldn't.

There are other ways I'm sure. Find a manual brake master cylinder and you still have to make it work.

I can't remember what @JOLENE_THE_RANGER actually ended up doing... but he was all over going to manual brakes for chassis clearance issues. Maybe he will chime in...
 
Thanks Gump, appreciate it :cool:
 
Probably talking out of my butt here... did the early diesel rangers still use a vacuum booster with a seperate vacuum pump or did they have a hydro boost system? Would think if they used a hydro boost system it would be much smaller than a vacuum booster and somewhat easy to adapt. You'd be able to keep power brakes...
 
They also have electric assisted power brakes... @PetroleumJunkie412 has that outlined in his build thread.

You have options...
 
I believe using hydroboost brakes from a Chevy Astro van might be an option. My buddy did that in his Early Bronco and if you are familiar with those at all, they have very limited space for the brake booster as well... so much so that there is an angle adapter for vacuum boost required if you go that route for power brakes.
 
Thanks for all replies! What I've seen of the hydro boosts I don't think they'd work for me. I did tho , run with that wilwood setup and tho it's pretty damn costly, they have a neat tandem system with dual pedals and m/c's and w/ prop. valve that pretty much addresses all my needs. I've been trying to adapt a Ford hyd. m/c to a McCleod internal slave cyl. on my toploader trans and it's been a nightmare. So this might let me sleep at night, all I gotta do is remortgage the house!!!! 😂
 
i did a variation of whats posted above. long long pedal, and dual master cylinders. all in all a great set up and im happy with it.
two things to note. it takes some trial and error getting the correct master cylinder sizes to work best for your calipers. i had one that was 2 sizes too big in bore diameter and my truck would not stop the rear wheels from moving.
second, to answer your previous question, nothing out there on the market will mount to the fire wall without any fabrication work
if youre running stock, or stock style calipers (basically any single piston caliper) youre gonna need small bore diameters, and ALOT of driving force from the pedal. so get the absolute longest pedal you can fit. sub 12 inches will not suffice.


heres some pics of what i did. cut a big hole in the fire wall and plated it back in with a new plate that has the correct holes to mount the master cylinders to. the master cylinders and pedal assembly sandwinch the firewall. then braced the pedal assembly in the stock steering column/pedal mount bracket.
i used a CNC 16" pedal assembly (theyve since closed up shop after 50 years)
and two tilton 75 series master cylinders

sorry, dont that good of a picture of the masters. you can kind of see them in the last photo attached.
 

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I was a CNC distributer for many years back in my dune buggy days... I moved a bunch of their stuff. It just hurts to even hear they went under.
 
I was a CNC distributer for many years back in my dune buggy days... I moved a bunch of their stuff. It just hurts to even hear they went under.
youll be happy to hear they didnt go under, they retired and didnt want to sell their business to anyone so they just shut it down.
 
youll be happy to hear they didnt go under, they retired and didnt want to sell their business to anyone so they just shut it down.

That makes it way better then struggling to stay afloat until you succumb to overwhelming debt and despair.
 
they announced they were closing and raceteams/ hobbysts alike bought up EVERYTHING immediately to have their own spare parts and stuff.
 
Any truth to the story that Neal Hydraulics owners split and one owner started CNC?

That was the story I heard back in the day...
 

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