Body Mount Bushings for a ’92 Ranger Custom?

[rangerenthiusiast]

I used that black kit on my truck and used new 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Worked great.

Thanks, man.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

It's my understanding that the factory bushings are two pieces press fit together. Sandwiching the frame mount between them. So that the sleeve on the inside can ride up and down with the compression of the bushing.

I looked into the products from LMC.. way too much for the low budget I have.. so tractor supply it was. Grade 8 by the pound. I bought the replacement bushings from ebay. And 3" body lift block set.

The sleeves-
I made these from grade 8 washers and steel tubing. welded the washer to one end of the upper sleeve and weld the one to the lower sleeve. When complete the two parts slid into each other. No press fit.. but tight enough for no slop.. when I put the cab back on the frame all I had to do was place the upper sleeve and bushing on the frame. Drop the bolts through and then slide the lower bushing and sleeve into place.

$30 bucks in Grade 8 and a little time..

Hey, AR.

Thanks so much for this. After adding up the hardware on LMC (several hundred dollars worth), I’m going to have to try to go a similar route. Not sure how I’ll attach the washers to the steel tubing to make sleeves since I don’t own a welder, but I’ll have to figure something out. At the moment, I’m pricing out grade 8 bolts. Any idea what the difference would be between these grade 8 bolts from Tractor supply and Lowe’s (other than about 3 bucks a bolt)?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hexagonal-head-bolt-grade-8?cm_vc=-10005

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Hex-Cap-Screws-Grade-8-3-8-16-x-3/3050663

Not sure why there’d be such a big discrepancy, but both stores are local to me. Thanks!

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

It's my understanding that the factory bushings are two pieces press fit together. Sandwiching the frame mount between them. So that the sleeve on the inside can ride up and down with the compression of the bushing.

I looked into the products from LMC.. way too much for the low budget I have.. so tractor supply it was. Grade 8 by the pound. I bought the replacement bushings from ebay. And 3" body lift block set.

The sleeves-
I made these from grade 8 washers and steel tubing. welded the washer to one end of the upper sleeve and weld the one to the lower sleeve. When complete the two parts slid into each other. No press fit.. but tight enough for no slop.. when I put the cab back on the frame all I had to do was place the upper sleeve and bushing on the frame. Drop the bolts through and then slide the lower bushing and sleeve into place.

$30 bucks in Grade 8 and a little time..

Hey man, thanks so much for the good tips. I just ordered the prothane bushings from JC Whitney. I’ll also have to make my own hardware, because LMC wanted hundreds for it. I am a bit confused about one thing though. If the upper and lower sleeves have to slide into each other, does that mean that you used two different sizes of tubing to make them (so that one will fit inside the other when assembled)?

Also, does anyone know if specs exist anywhere on what diameter/length the bolts would have to be? Similarly, are the sleeve dimensions listed anywhere? I know it’s probably too much to hope for, but I’d rather not have to cut all the bolts, etc out on one side, then go to tractor supply with the pieces to try to match things up (since I might destroy them in the process). Would love to be able to pre-fab the pieces so that I can (hopefully) do the whole job in one day. Starting to have some pretty bad handling issues and it looks like the pass-through holes some of the body mount brackets are beginning to enlarge, so I’ve gotta do it quick.

Thanks!

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I used that black kit on my truck and used new 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Worked great.

What did you do about those wretched retainers (sleeves)? LMC wants $240.00 for the damn things!

 

[07nhbpsi]

What did you do about those wretched retainers (sleeves)? LMC wants $240.00 for the damn things!

What brand of bushings did u purchase?? I purchased energy suspension , and they included new bolts and sleeves....

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

What brand of bushings did u purchase?? I purchased energy suspension , and they included new bolts and sleeves....

Uggh... wish I’d known. The ones I bought just say, “Prothane Motion Control,” from Costa Mesa, CA (1-888-PROTHANE). They’re slightly different from the stock rubber ones in that they’re poly (not rubber) and they have what looks like a brass sleeve built into the top bushings. Based on the instructions included, it looks like you still need to use the upper and lower sleeves that came with the truck, or aftermarket versions of them. Presumably, they both slide inside of the “sleeve” that’s molded into the upper bushings.

How much were the Energy Suspension ones with all that hardware included?

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

What brand of bushings did u purchase?? I purchased energy suspension , and they included new bolts and sleeves....

Do you remember the website you ordered yours from? The Energy Suspension homepage doesn’t seem to allow direct orders to individual customers and all the other websites that I’ve visited (Amazon, Summit Racing, etc)don’t have the kits for my truck. Seems like they all have them for the F150, F250, and F350 only.

If I can find a complete kit for a reasonable price, I’m willing to resell the bushing-only kit that I have on eBay for a bit of a financial hit and chock the loss up to experience. I just want the job over, as there’s so much else to do and I need to be able to drive the truck.

Thanks.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

BUMP

(for website containing complete Energy Suspension kits mentioned above)

 

[07nhbpsi]

Uggh... wish I’d known. The ones I bought just say, “Prothane Motion Control,” from Costa Mesa, CA (1-888-PROTHANE). They’re slightly different from the stock rubber ones in that they’re poly (not rubber) and they have what looks like a brass sleeve built into the top bushings. Based on the instructions included, it looks like you still need to use the upper and lower sleeves that came with the truck, or aftermarket versions of them. Presumably, they both slide inside of the “sleeve” that’s molded into the upper bushings.

How much were the Energy Suspension ones with all that hardware included?

God, I wanna say I paid around $200 for them.....I got the bushings all new bolts, sleeves, and washers with them.....I got them through summit.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

God, I wanna say I paid around $200 for them.....I got the bushings all new bolts, sleeves, and washers with them.....I got them through summit.

Looks like they only have the complete kits (with sleeves) for 2WD in my model year (mine’s 4WD). Don’t know why there’d be a difference.

The pictures that show the sleeves do not appear to have the taper I was worried about though. Now if I could just get the dimensions of those sleeves and what material they’re made of, I could fabricate my own (since no one seems to have a complete kit for sale)...

 

[07nhbpsi]

Looks like they only have the complete kits (with sleeves) for 2WD in my model year (mine’s 4WD). Don’t know why there’d be a difference.

The pictures that show the sleeves do not appear to have the taper I was worried about though. Now if I could just get the dimensions of those sleeves and what material they’re made of, I could fabricate my own (since no one seems to have a complete kit for sale)...

Not sure, but if memory serves me right... they technically don’t have the bushing kit for a 2010 either...... I can tell u though, it fits my 2010...... I seem to remember running into some issue on application for mine when ordering.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Not sure, but if memory serves me right... they technically don’t have the bushing kit for a 2010 either...... I can tell u though, it fits my 2010...... I seem to remember running into some issue on application for mine when ordering.

Thanks for the input. So are you saying that you ordered a kit that was only supposed to be for a 2WD 2010 Ranger, but it fit your 4WD 2010 Ranger? Just want to make sure I’m hearing you right.

Thanks again, man.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I used that black kit on my truck and used new 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Worked great.

Where’d you find the replacement sleeves for the ones you cut out? I’ve been going crazy trying to find the dimensions for them to fabricate some (mine were totally disintegrated). LMC wants over 200 bucks just for the sleeves!!

 

[07nhbpsi]

Thanks for the input. So are you saying that you ordered a kit that was only supposed to be for a 2WD 2010 Ranger, but it fit your 4WD 2010 Ranger? Just want to make sure I’m hearing you right.

Thanks again, man.

Yes, that is what I’m saying I just double checked the application, and its for 2wd and 4wd ... Btw, I did find the receipt from 2 yrs ago. Looks like I paid $180 for mine......

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Hey, guys.

Got a further question that’s been bugging me for the duration of this project and it’s getting to crunch time. As mentioned, both the tops of body mounts and the sheet metal where the retaining bolts for the bushings pass through the body were rounded out because the PO kept driving the truck with shot bushings and hardware. So when I fabricated plates to weld to the tops of the mounts (which are otherwise in good shape), I cut holes in them for the bushing sleeves to pass through that were ever-so-slightly larger, thus ensuring a snug fit.

I’m assuming that the fit where the bushing bolts pass through the body should also be snug, right? I’m planning to weld some #8 washers to the body where each bolt passes through, so that they’re passing through a hole that’s just barely larger than themselves. My thought here is that while the bushings should allow slight up-and-down movement of the body, the hardware should allow no side-to-side or front-to-back movement. The only reason that I’ve started to question myself on this idea is the fact that all of the bolts use large, thick slotted “washers” in addition to the sleeves, nuts, shims, etc. This would seem to imply that some movement is expected. On the other hand, if the bolts were allowed to slide around, I would think that this would throw the cab out of alignment, right?

Can anyone help with some insights into this? Sorry, but as old as I am, I’ve honestly never replaced bushings before, so I don’t know how things would look if all the damage hadn’t been done.

Thanks, guys.