Blown Timing Belt

[Jolly Roger]

Unfortionitly my cheater bar is stronger than my impact. So i didnt pull the radiator and i dont have a fan shrowd. Once i pull the fan every thing is right there. But with the upper radiator hose in the way i lose travel. I put the parking break on, put it in gear (5sp.), and blocked the tires. As hard as i pull with the travel i had i was scared i was gona break something. Is it posible to twist a crank or tranny shaft by hand with a ceater bar?

 

[Duane867]

Well then you have no harmonic balancer. Just a crank pulley with a crank sensor pick up hub behind it. All you need to do to et the crank pulley off is gently pry it from the top against the block towards the block. It will pop right off after you remove the 4 retaining bolts. To remove the crank sensor hub and crank bolt ( * not a harmonic balancer * ) you can either attach the breaker to the pulley so as the handle makes contact with the ground or just short of (turning with the rotation of the crank when running.) Then simply unplug the coil coils at the connectors and bump the starter over until the breaker bar breaks the bolt loose. OR you can fit a large pipe wrench on the flats of the sensor hub and brace it on the ground while you give her hell with the breaker bar. ( PB BLAST IS YOUR FRIEND HERE BTW ) BUT do not remove any thing else until you snug the bolt back up a little with the breaker bar and socket and line up the cam sensor with the timing mark. then look at the line on the crank pulley and make sure its with in spec on the marks. Since you broke the bolt loose already it'll be cake to take off with the breaker bar after lining up. Comparing both these marks will confirm your not a tooth off or more. You can actually tell if your a half a tooth off with a 2.3.
They are very tempermental with worn or mis installed timing parts.

To get the crank sensor hub off simply wiggle it while pulling her straight towards the end of the crank until it works its way off.

You don't need to remove anything to change a 2.3L timing belt but the shroud, fan, serpentine belt, timing cover, crank pulley, and crank sensor hub. You can work the cover straight out from between the PS bracket. It will feel like its going to break but it wont. Its actually plyable and will flex right out with effort.

 

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks ill give it a try sunday when i have the day off. Im anxiuos to see whare its at. Im 3/4 of the way thru a full tank w/seafome. Right now its running better than it ever has.

 

[Duane867]

Never tried sea foam myself. How expensive is it ?

 

[Fordtoughranger]

Well then you have no harmonic balancer. Just a crank pulley with a crank sensor pick up hub behind it. All you need to do to et the crank pulley off is gently pry it from the top against the block towards the block. It will pop right off after you remove the 4 retaining bolts. To remove the crank sensor hub and crank bolt ( * not a harmonic balancer * ) you can either attach the breaker to the pulley so as the handle makes contact with the ground or just short of (turning with the rotation of the crank when running.) Then simply unplug the coil coils at the connectors and bump the starter over until the breaker bar breaks the bolt loose. OR you can fit a large pipe wrench on the flats of the sensor hub and brace it on the ground while you give her hell with the breaker bar. ( PB BLAST IS YOUR FRIEND HERE BTW ) BUT do not remove any thing else until you snug the bolt back up a little with the breaker bar and socket and line up the cam sensor with the timing mark. then look at the line on the crank pulley and make sure its with in spec on the marks. Since you broke the bolt loose already it'll be cake to take off with the breaker bar after lining up. Comparing both these marks will confirm your not a tooth off or more. You can actually tell if your a half a tooth off with a 2.3.
They are very tempermental with worn or mis installed timing parts.

To get the crank sensor hub off simply wiggle it while pulling her straight towards the end of the crank until it works its way off.

You don't need to remove anything to change a 2.3L timing belt but the shroud, fan, serpentine belt, timing cover, crank pulley, and crank sensor hub. You can work the cover straight out from between the PS bracket. It will feel like its going to break but it wont. Its actually plyable and will flex right out with effort.

Does this apply to a 95' 2.3l as well?
The manual says the crankshaft timing sensor must be removed as well. If so is the Positioning tool(Ford PN:T89P-6316-A) necessary or would feeler gauges be possible to use?
I have never dealt with 4cyl ranger motors, only V6's, but I am thinking about helping a friend out that says his timing belt is slapping the timing cover.
I figured we should replace the belt and looks like it might be common for the tensioner to become worn out as well.

 

[Duane867]

I would think a 2.3 is a 2.3 is a 2.3 ........
So in that spirit I would think it would be the same as mine and his above.
The adjusters loosen up and most times that is what causes the timing belt to wear and break. Rarely is the spring and or pulley bad on the tensioner in my experiences.
The bolt simply loosened and the belt started slapping.

You have to fiddle with the cover to get it out and back in but it will come out with out removing the entire accessory system and draining the cooling system.
No sensors need be removed either. Its far enough away from every thing to let the crank sensor pick up hub pass right under it and off.

This may or may not apply to your truck as well but I would have to thin very little changed on the motor from 93' - 95'.

 

[98greenranger]

When I did mine(2.5 though) to loosen the crankshaft bolt I had to put it in 5th and get on the passenger side of the truck and really pull. I was thinking the same thing you were, I thought I was going to break something. But it gave. I also made sure I tightened it to spec( i think it was 140 ft lbs). I dont think that bolt had come off before since the factory.

 

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks for the crank bolt/ break tip. I still havent got to it. Repeat: sunday on my day off.
Around here a deal on seafome is $7.00 a can 16oz. I got hooked on it at $4.75 a can. I run 1 oz per gallon. For the ranger 1 can 1 full tank. Add before you fill up. I put a long skinny screw driver in the filler neck to keep in open. Wile you dump in the seafome.
My best experinces are with 2 stroke and small engines.

 

[Jolly Roger]

I tried to pull the crank pully today. No luck. It was to rusty. When i tried to pry on the back it started to bend where ever i tried. With flakes or rust falling out. So i lined up the mark on the crank pully and the CPS. Put the bolts back in.

Then i noticed the mark on the cam seemed to be almost a full tooth retarded. So i pulled the belt off and advanced it one tooth. Now it looks like its advanced 1/4 tooth.

I had a new tentioner to put on. The old one spun just as good as the new one. I ground the back of the old one flat. After i coated it with anti sees it moved fine. I used a lug wrench on the pully and the ps pump braket. Pryed it back all the way and tightened the adjuster bolt. In stalled the belt. Losened the adjuster bolt for tention. Reinstalled every thing and went for a test run down the road. It seems like i lost a little but it wasent warmed up yet eather. Ill find out for sure back and forth to work tomarrow.

 

[Duane867]

Retard it about 1/2 a tooth after lining every thing up, rotate the crank TWO FULL REVOLUTIONS with the belt in place and it should be lined up perfectly. Friend showed me that once and it worked out perfectly for mine.

 

[Jolly Roger]

I put 72 miles on it back and forth to work the last two days. Im still 1/4 tooth advanced. Lost a little but of power. I want to say mpgs are better. I filled up and will test it out in the next week.
I also had random high idle and reving at idle. Before the belt broke and when it was retarded. It hasent done it since i advance it.
New problem. When i advanced the timing i changed the oil. Now i have a tick at idle. Im pritty sure theres no rocker arms (ohc). Could it be a liffter? Are thay hydrolic or solid? Are thay ajusted by the hight of the valve? I worked in an automotive machine shop years ago. I cant remember if ive done a valve job on a 2.3 head.
When you rotate the crank is the tentioner tight and torqued down? Or locked back and loose then readjusted after 2 revs? The new tentioner i had didnt come with a new spring. Mine very well could be wore out. Should i put more tention on it to suck out that 1/4 tooth?

 

[Jolly Roger]

Back to the deg. per tooth. If my math is right? 38 teeth 4.487 dia. = 9.487 deg. per tooth. It seem to me a 9.487 deg. change on the timing would be more than suttle. Ive only deg. two cams and one time to check a gear drive. I cant remember how and those were on small blocks w/distibtors w/out ecms. Some one please help me with my curiosity. I think ive allready forgoten more than i know sometimes.

 

[4b316]

Yes,one tooth is a big jump.Most of the time when we advance the cam timing even with a hot rod motor,is 6 degrees and most of the time 4 degrees is enough,then no bottom end,mostly top.Did you check the timing with the crank gear or did you use the timing cover?Covers have been know to be off a little,no where near a tooth but a little.You should push down on each lifter and not move.(valve open)sometimes a lifter gets "soft" and you get a tick

 

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks for the info. When i get time ill check it out. I couldnt get to the alinment marks. I did notice when 1 cyl. seemed to be tdc. The mark on the crank pully was right over top of the crank senser. Thats the best i have to work with.

 

[Duane867]

Like I said brother..... take her back apart..........
Line every thing up, remove the cover, loosen the tensioner bring her back to TDC and all lined up, then retard it about 1/2 a tooth via the arrow on the cam shaft. It takes patience and a little hand eye skill. You have to do this while removing the slack from the belt just before tensioning it back up. Just like aligning her up only fidling her back 1/2 tooth.
Tension her up and turn the crank over by hand two full revolutions.
On the second revolution it will be perfectly aligned. ;-)
In other words before you rotate her twice you will be able to visibly see 1/2 - 3/4 a tooth off on your cam indication arrow. After rotating twice you will visibly see the arrow lined up perfectly.


These little monsters ARE notorious for not starting if they are 1/2 a tooth out and running like doo doo at 1/4 tooth out.



Your getting a chatter from the lifters being depressed via bringing them up to TDC and squeezing out all the oil. They are hydraulic.
When you restart they will refill with oil and quiet down. Some times it takes a little while. As well some times the oil being squeezed out at TDC will reveal the weakest link in the lifter array via gunk and varnish build up causing them to stick.
Cam followers will produce ticking as well when they get worn.
I would run some Lucas through it and change your oil again. If you are running synthetic I wouldn't do it again. IMHO it makes older engines tear them selves apart.