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blown motor


stegomon

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
2,181
Age
41
City
auburn/minot maine
Vehicle Year
1987/1990
Transmission
Manual
goin down the rd yesterday....all of a sudden i see that i have no oil pressure:annoyed:...pull off the side of the rd to check my oil ...FULL CRANK CASE....so me being the way i am i think that my oil pressure shit he bed......so i keep on trucking...bad idea:shok:...the motor is no more

what would make the oil loose pressure at only 153,000 miles if thease things can do around 200,000-250,000 miles...

also looking for a motor and they want $700 for a motor from a scrap yard....will a motor from a toruse work...i know it wont drop in...i will have to tranfer thing...but i have sean sables in the local uncle henry's for as low as take me way
 
they will do that at that many miles , mine just did and i just finished putting the new motor in , i had been having sporadic oil pressure for a month , it finally lost all pressure and i made the mistake of keeping on going with it , mine had 156 on it whe it happened

and the local junkyards want 1200 to 1300 for an engine , i was lucky a friend had one i got for 450 , he pulled it and delivered it
 
well if the damn sencor went....why would it make the oil pump not work....woldn't the pump still turn.......becouse the pump is turned by the distibutor by a shaft..but the distributor is spun by the cam.......i need to check out the inside of this engine
 
i can pick up a motor from a 93 sable for $300...low miles......will that work?...and yes i know i need to swap things over....not a big deal
 
97....i did find one today out of a mini van for $100....98,000 miles....it is cheep and i could take a chance
 
all 3.0 short blocks are essentially the same. there were some minor changes to the heads during the flex-fuel run, but they can be interchanged for one-another without causing problems. i would look for a '92+ engine, since thats the year they went to the roller cam (1993 if its from a probe). as was mentioned, if the engine comes out of a FWD, you need to replace the head gaskets with RWD ones for proper coolant flow.

'94 and down used a distributor. your truck uses DIS. the engine is still the same, just swap over all your electrical sensors and fuel system parts.

the CMP....here we go again.

the CMP sensor rides atop a cam syncronizer shaft...which looks like a distributor would if you sawed the top half off. instead of a rotor, it has a little metal flag that spins 'round and 'round...passing through the CMP and generating a signal. the problem occures when the bushing that the syncro shaft rides on begins to wear out. as it does, the syncro shaft is allowed to "wobble". if the wobble gets bad enough, the little flag on the end of the syncro shaft will hit the CMP, stopping the syncro shaft suddenly and causing either the nylon drive gear to strip, or the roll pin holding the drive gear to the syncro shaft to shear off. either case results in the syncro shaft no longer being driven by the camshaft. since the syncro shaft still engages the oil pump like an old-fashoned distributor would, once the shaft stops turning, so does the oil pump.

the moral of the story? give your oil pressure gauge the benifit of the doubt :icon_thumby:
 
this dude is the 3.0 queen! i tryed to se if you had aim...was going to ask you this shit last night....
 
wicked know his stuff , if it wasnt for his knowledge i would have never gotten my truck running , though now i have a tranny problem
 
no aim, just msn.

and who you calling a queen anyway? do i look like richard simmons to you? :thefinger:

071018_richar.jpg
 

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