Blew A Universal

[WNY964x4]

why we call Electricians "shock" absorbers where we work......

most i wouldn't trust to plug in a coffee pot

true tools are good to have...most don't really know how to do the repairs though...
l8r, John

he had never changed a U-Joint , so i had to teach him

John , i ma just invite him down to our little shindig in the spring

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Hah thats exactly what happened to me last winter, broke a u joint. but I couldn't fix it it broke the bolts off in the T case connector. Called my buddies... then didn't answer... I had to run 10 miles home to grab the wrench and jog back to unbolt the drive shaft and drive home in front wheel drive.

Your an AWESOME friend! you should concider moving to Alaska and hlep me ou from time to time.

 

[railman]

he had never changed a U-Joint , so i had to teach him

John , i ma just invite him down to our little shindig in the spring

that would be cool

can never have enough at a g2g/trail ride....always more the merrier..

and as the last guy said....your a true friend...shouldn't ever matter how far or cost to help out

l8r, John

 

[86ford]

I am going to have a field day with this,

33's and stock 3.73 gears , 3.0L with 15x,xxx miles , do the math on how that would have went

Why would the 3.0 be me worked any harder pulling with the front end locked in as opposed to the rear end pushing? Please explain, I want to hear this one.

as for the lack of tools,

Everyone has SOMETHING that can cut the stupid rubber boot over the slip yoke to slide the back half of the driveshaft out.


As for your greaseable u-joints comment.

You must not wheel much. Joints with grease fittings are weaker because they are cross drilled to allow the grease to get through them. They break when sealed joints would not. BUT on a non wheeling rig grease fittings will help it live. I changed FACTORY u-joints on a late 90s Dodge Ram that had 180k on them so dont shoot down sealed joints. Slap the idiot at the counter that tells you to buy them.

86

 

[86ford]

that would be cool

can never have enough at a g2g/trail ride....always more the merrier..

and as the last guy said....your a true friend...shouldn't ever matter how far or cost to help out

l8r, John

FYI I am NOT belittling the incredible amount of effort you put into helping a friend, just saying get your shit right before you go lashing out at me or anyone else next time.

86

 

[WNY964x4]

I am going to have a field day with this,



Why would the 3.0 be me worked any harder pulling with the front end locked in as opposed to the rear end pushing? Please explain, I want to hear this one.

as for the lack of tools,

Everyone has SOMETHING that can cut the stupid rubber boot over the slip yoke to slide the back half of the driveshaft out.


As for your greaseable u-joints comment.

You must not wheel much. Joints with grease fittings are weaker because they are cross drilled to allow the grease to get through them. They break when sealed joints would not. BUT on a non wheeling rig grease fittings will help it live. I changed FACTORY u-joints on a late 90s Dodge Ram that had 180k on them so dont shoot down sealed joints. Slap the idiot at the counter that tells you to buy them.

86

if you saw the inside of this truck you would understand , i changed the seats for him too , and i was finding things he had been looking for for almost 6 months , he had the tools , i found them , but he didnt know he had them , the truck is an utter mess

and as for the 3.0 question , sure , i drove around my yard on 31's with the rear drive shaft out , but i put less than a mile on , 70 miles on a tired engine , trying to pull the dead weight of a vehicle would be hell not only on the engine , but the entire drive train in the front , and as fir the pull vs push argument , next time you move a vehicle by hand , try pulling it instead of pushing it and see how much faster it makes you weak

 

[AlwysBusted96]

well i call him a dumbass all the time because he did the lift and everything himself , knew he was gonna be running 33's , and had the Diff's apart to put Aussie Lockers in both , and left the stock gears

and we have to check the U-Bolts tomorrow , as his axle is physically rocking up and do as he applies and gets off the throttle going down the street , he had the rear acle out not to long ago because he blew the other on up and i asked him is he torqued the U-Bolts , his response " I Don't Know " , never let an Electrician do drivetrain work

I'm an Electrician however I do GOOD drivetrain work..... Anyway.... How does your friend like his Cragar rims? Do they seem stout? I was going to order them from the tire shop today but they where closed when I arrived. looks like I'll be getting them monday. And everyone could use a friend or two like you.

 

[MountainMike]

Tell your buddy a TRS firend say he should mail me his sun visor

 

[86ford]

if you saw the inside of this truck you would understand , i changed the seats for him too , and i was finding things he had been looking for for almost 6 months , he had the tools , i found them , but he didnt know he had them , the truck is an utter mess

and as for the 3.0 question , sure , i drove around my yard on 31's with the rear drive shaft out , but i put less than a mile on , 70 miles on a tired engine , trying to pull the dead weight of a vehicle would be hell not only on the engine , but the entire drive train in the front , and as fir the pull vs push argument , next time you move a vehicle by hand , try pulling it instead of pushing it and see how much faster it makes you weak

Are you smoking crack?

The gear reduction is the EXACT same regardless of if your truck is pulling with the front tires or pushing with the rear!

"dead weight" The "Weight" does not change at all when you use the front end to pull the vehicle.

We will use a m5od1 for example.

Rear wheel drive is 3.72 in 1st gear and 3.73 in the rear end. that comes out to roughly 13.87 to 1 drive ratio in first gear.

Front wheel drive in the same truck is 3.72 first gear and 3.73 in the rear end. That also comes out to roughly 13.87 to 1

Is the truck going to drive ten different kinds of ****ed up? YES. But it WILL drive just fine. A front wheel drive car is propelled by 2 shitty little CV shafts with a open carrier just like a truck in 4wd without a rear driveshaft. Is a truck front axle made to do this? NO but it works just fine. Hell a few different companies made FWD trucks in the late 70s early 80s!

This is the same kind of crap I hear all the time when people bitch about those "hillbillies" that weld up rear spiders instead of buying a locker. Just because something is not thought of as "right" by the after market community does not mean it will not work as well, or better than a 250+ dollar locker.

86

 

[MAranger]

I"m with 86 on this one. I still have what I believe to be stock non greaseable u joints in my front and rear shafts. Driving it front wheel drive for a short distance isn't gonna mess anything up.

The only argument i have against welding spiders is that they frequently blow up. I understand your point, like my buddies $400 detroit is very sporadic engaging and disengaging, watching him pulling a truck out one tire will be spinning and the other ratcheting in and out, seems like the impacts of the ratcheting would be worse for the shafts and joints then welded solid would be. He blows up 44 stuff all the time.

 

[86ford]

I"m with 86 on this one. I still have what I believe to be stock non greaseable u joints in my front and rear shafts. Driving it front wheel drive for a short distance isn't gonna mess anything up.

The only argument i have against welding spiders is that they frequently blow up. I understand your point, like my buddies $400 detroit is very sporadic engaging and disengaging, watching him pulling a truck out one tire will be spinning and the other ratcheting in and out, seems like the impacts of the ratcheting would be worse for the shafts and joints then welded solid would be. He blows up 44 stuff all the time.

The welded spider gears are stronger than a drop in locker (Aussie) or mini spool but a full carrier locker is stronger than the mini spool or welded diff.

86