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bII not kick down at idle


Did you pull the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator if it smells like fuel the regulator is bad.
 
ok so i found a meter is there idiot proof instructions anywhere
 
yes the tee is. im out of town and on my tablet so I cant help now. just search for eecIV test with analog meter
 
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
It is really easy once you know when to turn the key on make a good jumper wire and have a pad and pen ready you can use a test light also. count the blinks or sweeps of the needle and have someone write the numbers down its easy to miss one just writing it down. First erase the memory by connecting the jumper wire and turn the key on when it starts sending codes disconnect the jumper and wait about ten seconds. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour. Take it out for a spin for about 20 minutes at medium speeds then when you get home while the engine is still hot run the KOEO test key on engine off. Write the codes down and fix the codes in the order received. One at a time lowest number first do the repair and start all over again erase the memory and reset the computer do a road test then pull the codes to confirm the repair. once you get all 1s and you still have issues it is likely mechanically related.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-Ford-A...520?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c2e6e130
I bought one like this on craigs list and it had the extension cable you could do all the testing sitting in the drivers seat I didnt notice if this one had the instructions there are several other tests wiggle test, KOER, output state check all codes will be stored in the memory you can retrieve at any time doing the KOEO test.
 
lol two issues one not street worthy two it will never run 20 minutes. im really starting to hate this thing same reasons i dont know if i can pull off using seafoam it will never restart once warmed up.
 
i have to a fix a wire before i can do anything else i have a orange wire that goes on the solenoid switch . it was split wide open
 
ok so i got my hands on a scanner and it pulled code 34 it goes back to the egr / selinoid so where do i go from here ????
 
I assume this was a KOEO code scan? As opposed to KOER test. Your 34 code means the evap system didn't respond as it should have . . sometime. That stored a memory code. I would suggest running a KOER test and see what happens. Its a "fun" test as the computer will take over your engine controls. You will be asked to do a few things while it's running the test.
 
Have you checked the vaccuum diaphram on the transmission? Sounds like it could be your problem. If the vaccuum line OR the diaphram is bad, it won't shit right. It's located on the passenger side of your transmission up on top. You can see it if you unbolt your inspection plate in the cab.

20703940_bwd_vm332_pri_detl.jpg
 
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yes i need to run the keor test today not sure i can pull it off. im gonna try and see what i get. april isnt far away gotta get this done time to wheel.
 

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