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bII not kick down at idle


ok so i couldnt take it anymore and limped down to the garage. it started up right away (no crank time ) since i cleaned the iat ran for ten minutes and threw it in gear it shut off again. pulled a plug (middle on driver side) it has weak spark so what does that leave me with????? and they are carbon fouled again so help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
You never answered about having codes or not? So I guess no? Does your check engine light come on and go off while you are starting the engine? There is also a performance test the computer can do on your engine. It is easiest done with an EECIV scanner. It will take over your engine, raise the idle up and down, open and close things etc. It will report, through codes, what was wrong as it performed the test.
 
i dont have a check engine light or any method to scan or read codes thats my big issue


You never answered about having codes or not? So I guess no? Does your check engine light come on and go off while you are starting the engine? There is also a performance test the computer can do on your engine. It is easiest done with an EECIV scanner. It will take over your engine, raise the idle up and down, open and close things etc. It will report, through codes, what was wrong as it performed the test.
 
But does the light come on when you turn the key, then go out when it starts?
 
i just double checked i have no check engine light in the cluster
 
You should fix that ASAP. It's there for a reason. But the codes can be gotten with a scanner or an analog voltmeter. I suggest finding one or the other. The analog meter will be easier to find. Someone probably has one you can borrow or buy one at Radio Shack.
 
it didnt come with a check engine light from the factory


You should fix that ASAP. It's there for a reason. But the codes can be gotten with a scanner or an analog voltmeter. I suggest finding one or the other. The analog meter will be easier to find. Someone probably has one you can borrow or buy one at Radio Shack.
 
hmm. OK but you can still pull codes with a scanner or analog voltmeter. You will have codes stored.
 
If it blows black smoke at startup thats a classic valve guide seals if the compression is within 10% change the valve guide seals the burning oil will allways give you grief it will destroy the cat and the IAT will allways get dirty quick. My guess is it will run OK after you clean the sensor and reset the computer but it wont take long for the computer to go waco again. Change the PCV and air filter regular and clean the TB good around the butterfly and IAC and clean the EGR also. It sounds like it has been neglected get a can of seafoam and run it around 2000 rpm until operating temp and suck about half a can into the brake booster fitting and rev it up until the smoke clears. From the sound of it it will smoke really good. The more carbon in the cylinders the more it will smoke hopefully upwind of the neighbor that dont like you, it will make quite a cloud that will clean the pistons, rings, cylinders and valves. Then check the compression again.
 
Black smoke is absolutely not oil being burned. Oil smoke is a greyish blue. Black smoke is overly rich. When you have worn valve guides and/or worn seals, oil is brought into the combustion chamber during an intake stroke. Then, oil burns along with the fuel mixture and it is a grey blue color, definitely not black.
 
Oops I forgot as soon as you suck the seafoam in immediately turn the engine off for 15 minutes it will dissolve the carbon and then start and run it between 3000 and 3500 rpm until the smoke clears
 
it dont blow black smoke since the heads was replaced i guess its just everything that still had carbon the plentum is still black kinda black i sprayed carb cleaner in it to get what i could
 
something else to add last time i after it would shut off ran it back in the summer. it would shut off and the egr vac. selenoid would gurgle like a coffee maker and then it would start and run for a bit and repeat the cycle . so could i have a bad egr valve / selenoid combo ?????
 
This is getting ludicrous now. You don't take pot shots at everything on an engine, in order to fix a problem. It's wasteful, expensive and not professional. Your number one thing to do now is pull codes, plain and simple.
 

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