Biggest Ranger In Jersey???

[4x4builder1]

 

[4x4builder1]

Cylinders In-Line 6
Bore/Stroke 4.33 x 5.00 (110mm x 127mm)
Displacement 7.2 L (441 cu in)
Weight 1425 lb (647 kg)
Horsepower 190 to 300 @ 2500/2400 rpm
Torque 520-860 lb-ft @ 1440 rpm

 

[4x4builder1]

dude the weight is a bit high but its a nasty motor right out of the box so ill put out some feelers for one

 

[Toms01PSD]

mopar??? he wants it to run, not look pretty

i say a 7.3PSD or 460.

if you wanna be "out of the oridinary", maybe a CAT c7 if you can find one.

Ha. You have doubts in a 440? I had a 95 S10 with a 383 stroker. I got outrun on a 1/4 mile dragstrip by a STATION WAGON with a 440. N/A too!

Anyway, that things going to be sweet no matter what you stick in it!

 

[JohnnyU]

If you don't like electronics, you won't like the C-7/C-9's...

 

[4x4builder1]

I can work with electronics but the electronics cant work under water so thanks ill check the c7 off I think the cummins is the way to go and hey I dont doubt the 440 I personally have a 383ht in my 99 tahoe and love it but I dont have 2400lbs of tires on the tahoe either I think any beefy diesel is going to do better for the low rpm torque it needs only ? is what year or range of years should I go for

 

[JohnnyU]

I'd stick with something like 91.5-98. Anything in that range would be a pretty good platform to start building on.

If you wanted something really unique, you might be able to find 8.3L Cummins...

http://www.vannattabros.com/iron48.html

(I know it's a wheel loader, but the information is still useful)

 

[Frank The Tank]

The only real issue I see with a 5.9 6BT is the weight of the engine.

If you start looking for one....
If you go the VP-44 injection route, don't get a 53 block number, they tend to crack the water jackets.
If you go with a P-pump 12 Valve..... look for an IH block (yes International Harvester) they are the beefiest of all the 6bt blocks, and the most sought after, for re-sale.
I'm guessing you don't even want to venture into the CR (common rail) territory for cost alone.
the VE-pump (1st gens) some came with intercoolers, some not, I don't remember the crossover point... you want an intercooler.
Auto trans, came out with an HY-35 turbo some years..... much smaller exhaust housing. you want an HX-35..... and I would suggest a cheap easy mod... 250 dollars or so to convert your HX 35 into an HX 35/40 for spooling purposes, and to avoid the shaft snap common in a straight 40/40 turbo.

A cummins will cost much less to mod than any PS, and yield more gains....
mainly because of the cost with injectors, and turbo's.
I had mine head-studded, O-ringed, spraying water/meth, Industrial Injection 66/71 turbo, tst fuel, edge timing, 200hp 7hole .010's injectors, ats exhaust manifold, BHAF intake, 1/2 fuel lines, 150gph Airdog on a toggle switch,
I also had to run a South Bend Dual Disk clutch.... could launch in 3rd at 45psi with no slippage after dumping.
billert input shaft was a must.
NV-4500 will be your cheapest trans route with the manual.
You will need a sled pulling clutch dual or triple disk if you take the NV-4500 or 56 (6speed) route.

so what are you looking into?
i just know a little about certain topics.

Frank

 

[855.0ranger]

i just gotta say that is one of the sickest rangers ive ever seen and by far the biggest! cant wait to c it done

 

[aaron_ariens]

Dude! That's sickk!

 

[4x4builder1]

to be honest frank im totally new to the diesel scene and willing to take your advice I think Ill go with the IH block and see where that will take me any idea on ballpark cost no mods just to get it in and running

 

[Frank The Tank]

Depends on how lucky you get with an engine........
1,500-3,000 the more you spend, the fresher it is likely to be.
but people total them out all the time and the only thing left of the truck is the engine and trans.

a sight called cumminsforum.com I'm "burgundy bomber" on there... I'm pretty much inactive now, it has hundreds of vendors, and you can post a question to help find an engine in your local.

I've never bought a bare block, but I believe luke at L&L diesel rebuilt one for about 1,500. 12 valves are much cheaper than 24 valves VP-44/or CR models.
my head alone after I cracked the 24 was 1,100.

Frank

 

[Danger-Ranger96]

Do you guys think 1/8th wall 2x2 tubing is enough for the frame braces in pic above Id rather try to keep it as light as possible

hmmm. i'd say go with .188 wall 2x2 tubing (3/16'') just incase

 

[4x4builder1]

I actually got 3/16 for the 4 long tubes that run from the drop tree to the frame and 1/8 wall for the short webbing pieces just to keep it lighter since Im gusseting everywhere. Just havent had the time to get it done yet

 

[JohnnyU]

Well, I'm not so sure about that. I think if it were me, I would just find a wrecked truck with good engine/trans combo (2wd might be preferred and easier to find) and retrofit it into the truck in stock form.

Granted you'll have much higher stresses on the components than most stock trucks do, I think with the axle and t-case reduction it'll be livable. Once you get things shoehorned in there and running around, then you could start tweaking the engine. Keep it simple at first, otherwise you'll have $20K wrapped up in an engine that's still sitting on a stand in the garage.