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Bed removing


MSGia

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2021
Messages
195
City
Central Florida
Vehicle Year
2010
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
5, 5
Tire Size
235,45,17
Good afternoon all, just had a question about removing my bed. I was going to take off my bed bolts and slide it back to change the fuel pump, and just clean up things under that part of the frame. Problem is my dad thinks that if I take the bed bolts off I won’t be able to get them back in, like they might break when I take them off. I don’t think they will, we don’t really live in the rust belt, and my truck just has surface rust. Should I be able to remove it with no issue or is that a real concern? Thanks all
 
They can break but a 2010 shouldn't be that rusted

You can buy new sets or bolts from LMC Truck, or even local auto parts stores: https://www.lmctruck.com/1983-11-ford/bed-tailgate/fr-1983-11-bed-mounting-hardware

They are installed at the factory with an impact wrench, so have a long cheater bar to break each bolt loose, or impact wrench
You can rent electric/battery impact wrenches

2010 may have 8 bolts instead of 6, not sure why Ford did that

Don't forget to unplug the rear lights
 
A new set of bolts is cheap enough, you can even get them off Amazon. Better to have them and not need them.

besides the tail lights you'll have to undo the three screws for the fuel filler neck.

It will save you a lot of heart ache pulling the bed off, even if you break every one of the bolts. Trying to drop a tank to change a pump is a PITA on these.
 
i agree /\

i always take the bed bolts off and just tilt the bed with put a 2x4 to hold it up while i change the pump. if you do it right, you don't have to unplug the lights
 
Yeah, I like to slide the bed back or take it off just to have room to work. It does take 2 or three people to lift, if it's just you.
 
crawl under and look at the nuts. add some penetrating lube if necessary.
 
I removed the bed on my 2010 3 years ago, in the salt belt, half the bed supports were rotted.. all 8 bolts came right out with a big ratchet.
 
The bolts on my 94 came out reasonably well. I too had to change the fuel pump. I planned on doing so on the weekend, so for that entire week, when I got home from work, I sprayed all the bolts with penetrating lube. It's a reasonable precaution.
 
i have found the longer the breaker bar you use, the less chance of stripping or breaking stuff. i use a 30 or 36" 1/2 drive with an adapter to fit the 3/8 torq bit and it lets me pull smoothly instead of having to try and pull like hercules on a shorter bar and possibly the bit strip or break
 
I find the easiest way is to just use a massive impact to beak all the bolts, cut the clip nuts off quick with a wafer wheel, then just put all new bolts in.

Only time I had an issue was the one time I stripped the clip that holds the nut, and the bolt spun. That was a PITA because had to grind the head off the bolt.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. As for tools I have a 24" breaker bar and a battery impact, both 3/8ths drive. I'm sure I'll get around to the project eventually.
 
I'd give serious consideration to acquiring/borrowing/renting a bigger impact wrench. This job alone is pretty good justification to own one.
 
I went under my truck to inspect the bed bolts and other things, but this is what my bolts look like:

bed-bolt-rgr.PNG


And I have 4 bonus bolts, 10 in total, all T55. I tried turning one of them and with a breaker bar it's pretty easy, I might be able to get away with keeping the original hardware, but let me know what you guys think.
 
I went under my truck to inspect the bed bolts and other things, but this is what my bolts look like:

View attachment 87979

And I have 4 bonus bolts, 10 in total, all T55. I tried turning one of them and with a breaker bar it's pretty easy, I might be able to get away with keeping the original hardware, but let me know what you guys think.
If the bolts come out cleanly, then I don't see any reason to replace them. You might get lucky. Start today by hitting all of them with penetrating lubricant. Aerokroil is amazing, but a bit expensive.
 
I went under my truck to inspect the bed bolts and other things, but this is what my bolts look like:

And I have 4 bonus bolts, 10 in total, all T55. I tried turning one of them and with a breaker bar it's pretty easy, I might be able to get away with keeping the original hardware, but let me know what you guys think.
Those are practically pristine, shot of penetrating oil for couple days before you start and you'll be fine. The one over gas tank is always fun to get to.
I've kept original hardware in far worse shape than those.​

I've never had any issue lining up holes.
You do need to be smart about it and start all of them before tightening any up.​

p.s. I have 1/2" drive T55 for bed bolts - nothing worse than breaking the 1/2 - 3/8" adapter on something I know is doing to take force.
 

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