Bearing, Hub or something else?

[rfl]

Son's 1993 Ranger 4x4. I had the brakes replaced (everything except lines and MC) about 3k miles ago. I had them repack the 10k mile old bearing while they were at it. I took it for a short drive down the block today and noticed a wonderful 'rubbing' sound coming from the front. Gets worse turning one way, goes away when turning the other. Pitch is like road noise or tire rubbing (it is not). Noise is not continuous - it is rotational, like you would have with a single rub spot on a tire.

We are having a 6" lift and manual hubs installed in a couple of weeks (of course it has a problem now), so I am a bit concerned that it may be a half shaft or shaft bearing - I have no idea how to check the shaft or shaft bearing. With some luck it will just be a wheel bearing, but I am interested in opinions, experiences or know common issue.

Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

You don't have half-shafts on a 93. Those have CV joints in them.

Anyway, it's a dust shield rubbing the rotors. Almost 100% sure of that.

 

[rfl]

You don't have half-shafts on a 93. Those have CV joints in them.

It has U joints - but yeah, I did say half-shaft which is a CV thing.

Anyway, it's a dust shield rubbing the rotors. Almost 100% sure of that.

Okay - will give them a tug and see what happens.

 

[rfl]

Anyway, it's a dust shield rubbing the rotors. Almost 100% sure of that.

Not it. What is your almost 1%?

 

[rfl]

Told the boy he needed to get the front end up and see if the wheels had any play. He did, and they do. I know the outer bearings are easy to replace, but from what I know about the inners they need come off with a puller, and then need a tool to get them back on - yes?

Also, how much effort to get the shafts out? If they come out without needed to remove ball joint and/or opening the pumpkin, I will pull them and have a drive line shop replace the U-joints and the inner bearings at the same time. Is it a matter of removing the bolts that hold the spindle onto the knuckle and pull? Really not sure what needs to be done in this area, but if it is not a big deal then I may come home early to pull it apart rather than waiting until the weekend to work on it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

IIRC;
The inner bearings don't need a puller unless the bearing race in the hub is toast. And then a punch/drift and hammer has worked for me if the race is fubar. There is a seal tho. Also there is a needle bearing inside the spindle that lots overlook.
The DS axle will pull out with a sharp tug after removing the spindle. A 2x4 and three lb sledge will help in removing the spindle.
The passenger side isn't as easy because there is a c-clip that holds half the axle inside the pumpkin. It's been a long time since I have removed one and my memory is failing me tonight, maybe someone else can help or refer to a manual.
Here is a pdf of the front axle;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_35.pdf

Good luck,

Richard

 

[rfl]

IIRC;
The inner bearings don't need a puller unless the bearing race in the hub is toast. And then a punch/drift and hammer has worked for me if the race is fubar. There is a seal tho. Also there is a needle bearing inside the spindle that lots overlook.
The DS axle will pull out with a sharp tug after removing the spindle. A 2x4 and three lb sledge will help in removing the spindle.
The passenger side isn't as easy because there is a c-clip that holds half the axle inside the pumpkin. It's been a long time since I have removed one and my memory is failing me tonight, maybe someone else can help or refer to a manual.
Here is a pdf of the front axle;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_35.pdf

Good luck,

Richard

Thanks. I ran across this http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana28Rebuild.shtml which explains how to get it apart. If I am reading it correctly, the stub shaft takes the most effort (pulling the pumpkin). I see the needle bearing on that page - thanks for the heads-up as I would not have planned on it.

What is being said in the NOTE for 1)A) "NOTE: The Dana 35 front axle does not use blind, or master, splines. Therefore, special attention should be made to ensure that the yoke ears are in line (in phase) during assembly." Is this saying the yoke must be in a specific position for just the stub shaft? How do you make sure it is lined up (not sure what "in phase" is)?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you look at the two parts of the passenger axle, you will see it has two u-joints. One in each half. If you look at the axle parts from an edge view, you will see that they are in line... "in phase" if you will. So the u-joints will line up ++ not +x

 

[FritzTKatt]

Consider that the bearing just need to be tightened? Or they didn't put the correct preload on them.

Basically, spindle nut gets put on "tight as ****", then back it off about 1/4 turn, and tighten with a gentle press until the rotor spins with a touch of resistance. Then the lock ring or key (go tighter, not looser for the key if you must). If you have manual hubs, the lock nut goes on "tight as ****". I'd have to check the book for actual torque specs. The final spec is in inlbs, when you need a 1/2" drive to fit the socket. So you need step ups, or get a good feel for it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ good point.

 

[FritzTKatt]

I do it all with a 1/2" ratchet, maybe some cheater pipe, since I have the warn conversion and a (?)2 3/16"(?) 4 prong socket. Before that IIRC I just used channel locks since I don't have sockets that big.

It's all about the lock nut though. I was lucky the keyed ring stayed in place. That lock nut chewed out the inside of my hub, but didn't damage anything but the housing a bit.

 

[rfl]

Consider that the bearing just need to be tightened? Or they didn't put the correct preload on them.

Basically, spindle nut gets put on "tight as ****", then back it off about 1/4 turn, and tighten with a gentle press until the rotor spins with a touch of resistance. Then the lock ring or key (go tighter, not looser for the key if you must). If you have manual hubs, the lock nut goes on "tight as ****". I'd have to check the book for actual torque specs. The final spec is in inlbs, when you need a 1/2" drive to fit the socket. So you need step ups, or get a good feel for it.

I would tend to agree but the back story on this is lame. The shop that originally installed the bearings did the brakes (~10k miles in between). When the did the brakes they said it needed new bearings until I reminded them that they had replaced them. It has only been 3k miles since they repacked them. I am now questioning their competence. That, plus the noise-- which is loud enough to warrant $50 for a complete bearing set now that I know they are lose --will make me sleep better after we put the bigger tires on.

Starting to think this happened now for a reason.

 

[Andy D]

This stuff isnt rocket science. With a few tools, you can do stuff yourself.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Just tear it apart, check the torque/play on the bearings, and run it. See where that gets you. I'm pretty sure you just need to tighten them up.

Chances are you spindles aren't worn out or anything. Those needle bearings inside the spindle only support the axle shaft when in 4x4 (AFAIK).

 

[rfl]

This stuff isnt rocket science. With a few tools, you can do stuff yourself.

We do, it is a time thing. We stripped the thing down to the frame in March, replaced the engine, rebuilt the trans, did drive lines, rear axle bearings, deleted the fender flares and badges, made some nasty dents look better, color change, etc. The brakes and bearings were me saying uncle.

Just got done pulling it apart. Right inner bearing cracked, and the outer U-joint is knocking.