Baja 1000 Budget Build Plan

[superds]

I think this is an awesome idea. I can't wait to see what you come up with. It'd be nice if you had a full build thread in the build forum (you could probably ask a mod to move this one for you if you wanted).

Someone mentioned a 93-97 Supercab with a 4.0 & 5speed. I think that is a very good place to start. Pretty well built pickup from the factory. The front end is TIB (2wd) or TTB (4wd) and pretty stout. The 4.0 is very reliable with pretty good power. And I agree that the 5 speed is a better way to go than auto (I've never understood using an auto for desert race trucks).

For modifications:
Super heavy duty clutch for tranny (replace slave cylinder while you're in there) and make sure the tranny doesn't have a leak near the shift rails (common M5OD-R1 problem)
I think rather than a lift kit, you'll want to go homebuilt to save some money and perform better than most kits can offer
Good shocks, but you already know this.
Skip body work except for enlarging your fender openings for larger tires (this also keeps center of gravity low compared to just lifting the truck higher to fit them on)
Disc brake rear axle from '95+ Explorer (31 spline, larger axle tubes), add some type of locker or spool. I won't give you advice for which one since I'm undecided which would be better.
Do some other stuff, too. (I'm very helpful, aren't I?)

 

[TheUndeadRanger]

haha more helpful than i am, though i love this kind of thread, its a learning experience for everyone!

and the explorer rear end (8.8) is a fantastic idea, they have disc brakes and are much beefier and durable. you'll most likely want 4.56 gears, locked, welded, or spooled, depending on what you think the terrain would be like, and depending on the tire tread and size and blah blah blah.

 

[gwaii]

I think this is an awesome idea. I can't wait to see what you come up with. It'd be nice if you had a full build thread in the build forum (you could probably ask a mod to move this one for you if you wanted).

Someone mentioned a 93-97 Supercab with a 4.0 & 5speed. I think that is a very good place to start. Pretty well built pickup from the factory. The front end is TIB (2wd) or TTB (4wd) and pretty stout. The 4.0 is very reliable with pretty good power. And I agree that the 5 speed is a better way to go than auto (I've never understood using an auto for desert race trucks).

For modifications:
Super heavy duty clutch for tranny (replace slave cylinder while you're in there) and make sure the tranny doesn't have a leak near the shift rails (common M5OD-R1 problem)
I think rather than a lift kit, you'll want to go homebuilt to save some money and perform better than most kits can offer
Good shocks, but you already know this.
Skip body work except for enlarging your fender openings for larger tires (this also keeps center of gravity low compared to just lifting the truck higher to fit them on)
Disc brake rear axle from '95+ Explorer (31 spline, larger axle tubes), add some type of locker or spool. I won't give you advice for which one since I'm undecided which would be better.
Do some other stuff, too. (I'm very helpful, aren't I?)

this is some super advice

when do we get the team going?

 

[TheUndeadRanger]

you have a west coast member for a pit crew waiting and ready haha

 

[Brandon12]

I can be your co-pilot
I havent built a prerunner yet, but I have plans. This is all my own opinion and I dont have much experience in this category so idk how my advice compares to the other guys. It all depends on where you can get deals and how much fab work you want to put into it. I would start with and extended cab first gen because in my area they are a dime a dozen in decent shape. Then for $1,000 new (Im sure you could find it way cheaper used) you can buy the fiberglass front end conversion so you have the 05 ranger front end and also fiberglass bedsides (FiberwerX.com). Then find a good donor explorer (one with the v8 if your lucky) and swap the drivetrain into the ranger. If you look in the right places, between the ranger and the donor, your in $1200 maybe, another grand for the fiberglass. That leaves almost another 3k for suspension, which is the expensive part id be putting money into and a cage and seats. I havent quite figured out yet how get the suspension set up for cheap yet but ive been working on it. Nor have I decided on 2wd or 4wd. Its nice to know someone else has the same dreams I do.

 

[Oldschooljeep48]

haha more helpful than i am, though i love this kind of thread, its a learning experience for everyone!

and the explorer rear end (8.8) is a fantastic idea, they have disc brakes and are much beefier and durable. you'll most likely want 4.56 gears, locked, welded, or spooled, depending on what you think the terrain would be like, and depending on the tire tread and size and blah blah blah.

Actually I was planning on a 9" rear with either 4.56 or 4.88 for more grunt, and I would put a spool in it for sure. Simple, strong, reliable, easy to fix, downside is its heavy. And for meats i was going to stick with 33's, maybe 35's. I have no problem with the 4.0 although I'd love a 5.0, but then Im getting out of budget for sure, not to mention the ghost issues of the swap that always seem to come up. Plus my therory for durability is overbuild and underpower. Not super exciting, but it works, and the 4.0 isnt a wimp either...

 

[Oldschooljeep48]

I can be your co-pilot
I havent built a prerunner yet, but I have plans. This is all my own opinion and I dont have much experience in this category so idk how my advice compares to the other guys. It all depends on where you can get deals and how much fab work you want to put into it. I would start with and extended cab first gen because in my area they are a dime a dozen in decent shape. Then for $1,000 new (Im sure you could find it way cheaper used) you can buy the fiberglass front end conversion so you have the 05 ranger front end and also fiberglass bedsides (FiberwerX.com). Then find a good donor explorer (one with the v8 if your lucky) and swap the drivetrain into the ranger. If you look in the right places, between the ranger and the donor, your in $1200 maybe, another grand for the fiberglass. That leaves almost another 3k for suspension, which is the expensive part id be putting money into and a cage and seats. I havent quite figured out yet how get the suspension set up for cheap yet but ive been working on it. Nor have I decided on 2wd or 4wd. Its nice to know someone else has the same dreams I do.

I like it, well thought out! I like the idea of a total donar car for the drive train.

Who else has ideas for me!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

brandon12,
The donor is a good idea.
I don't agree on the fiberglass. Are you wanting to race on a budget or look pretty?
My thoughts;
Keep the weight down as much as possible, especially unsprung weight. I would look at this as a 1000 mile drag race. I'd use the 8.8....less unsprung weight, was used in 1/2 tons so is plenty strong, has plenty of gear ratios, can be had with disc brakes.Tires... use as small as practical, again, less unsprung weight. And less weight to haul around in spares. I haven't looked at numbers, but the 4.0 has plenty of low down torque. Why not just build an early Exploder? Save time moving stuff from one to another. Keep in mind... apparently... longer wheelbase = better through the whoops and rough sections. Some sites to check out;
http://race-dezert.com/home/
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/index.php
http://www.desertrides.com/
Good luck,
Edit; 2wd is cheaper to build, less to go wrong.

Richard

 

[rickf92592]

You guys really need to go to a few races and look at a few trucks before you start encouraging him to throw down money. Most of what you are describing won't get through tech. Buy a rule book before you even turn a wrench.

 

[jeffminsc]

You guys really need to go to a few races and look at a few trucks before you start encouraging him to throw down money. Most of what you are describing won't get through tech. Buy a rule book before you even turn a wrench.

That's great advice there. I have never done anything like that, but I don't think you need a bunch of cash to do it. Get rule book meet the minimum safety standards and go for it. I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Keep us posted as to how it comes out, best of luck to you.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Buy a rule book before you even turn a wrench.

Best advice yet.

Richard

 

[strvger]

here is a good start till the 2011 book comes out:

http://www.score-international.com/technotes.aspx

 

[Brandon12]

I said the fiberglass that way you have room for tire travel with out having to sawzal your whole fender off and so you can fit some different tires without lifting so you can maintain a lower force of gravity. And because it just looks awesome IMO. I think if you can get a set of glass fenders used for a decent price then it would be worth it to put em on.
Again, thats just my thoughts and I have no professional racing experience

 

[superds]

You guys really need to go to a few races and look at a few trucks before you start encouraging him to throw down money. Most of what you are describing won't get through tech. Buy a rule book before you even turn a wrench.

This is damn good advice. We were having so much fun dreaming about the build we didn't even stop to think that you actually have rules to follow to even enter the race.

This in mind, it's probably best to pick a class that fits the level of modification you want to do for your budget before you even buy a vehicle. For example, some of the classes would rule out a Supercab Ranger but allow a regular cab and others might allow the Supercab but not the regular cab due to wheelbase restrictions.

You can order a Score rule book here: http://www.score-international.com/webresources/files/RuleBk.pdf for $27.75.

 

[TheUndeadRanger]

wow, good thing we didn't get too carried away, i may get the book myself. anybody heard of the race in northern arizona called whiplash? thye only put the rule book out about 2 months before the race, and last year everything was pretty relaxed because the track was nice and smooth, plenty of room, and only two real wrecks. this year, the track has been moved in some places to add a challenge and the rain totally messed it up so the rules were a hell of a lot stiffer. best i can say about the rules is get it to the bare minimum but allow for improvements on race day. never finalize anything until you know for sure its enough.
EDIT: don't forget to double check welds and make sure there aren't any rattles from body parts, they may go through your truck more thoroughly than others if they hear a funny noise or notice a messy weld.