4x4RangerGuy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 809
- Age
- 40
- City
- Newton Highlands, MA
- Vehicle Year
- 2003
- Transmission
- Manual
how much i think i know? I work for John Deere, and have rebuilt MANY powershift tranys. If you know what a powershit it, then you should be able to relate an automotive type trany to them. they use the same principals. But un like in the auto world, if one of our rebuilds goes bad then there is hell to pay. The customer is pissed cuz hes got a 300 000 doller paper weight out on the job that wont move. so hes losing money. then he calls the owner os the shop, then it just rolls down hill from there. I dont like or dislike your explination of how said trany acted befor failure, odds are, you were paying close enough attention. Its not rocket science, what did the pump its self look like? after all the work was done on it, was anything checked to make sure it was actualy good to go? by the sounds of it, no or your little "trany went bang and no worky no more" wouldnt have happened. As far as liability goes, when it comes to customers, i dont give an opinion, thats not my job, thats what the service managet does. When it comes to this, there is no liability. People anything read on the internet needs to be taken with a grane of salt, and have some common sense applied to it. Its basic hydraulic principals. if any pump starves for oil, it will over heat, and sieze up. That being said, at the same time, if its supposed to be pumping out 10gmp but has a restruction on the intake side, then it will never meet the flow required to properly operate other functions within the trany. That means, transoperation would suffer. WHAT did the pump drive shaft look like?
No work was done on it. I just decided to flush the fluid at around 75k miles, and 100 miles later it went bang and that was it. I really don't know how else to explain it; it never shifted funny, slipped, or made noises until it failed 100 miles after the flush. I dropped the pan to check to make sure the filter was installed correctly, and it was. Proper amount and correct type of ATF as well. There really isn't a reason, other than maybe the pump was faulty from the factory (if that was the case I think it would have gone far before 75k), that the transmission blew up.
Now, it was rebuilt ($2500 later, a lot for a student) and only lasted another 40k before it started slipping. I said forget it, and just swapped over to a manual. I'm sick of dealing with components that can't handle what a pickup truck is designed to do. I've learned since I started wrenching at my shop that the more complicated and complex things get, the more tendency and possibility there is for something to break. That's why I have manual windows, locks, and now a transmission. Less stuff to break, and easier and cheaper to fix.