B2 offroad capabilities

[Lil-Pony]

very good choice for a beginner b2, manual transfer case is a must, dont know what auto transmission is under it but that would make or break the deal for me, dont like the rust, but i come from a rust free state unless you live on the coast. the price is dead on for what your getting i guess

 

[Surrey]

Do you guys think this would be a good one to start with? Its from jersey so im afraid its totally rotted out, but it looks decent

1988 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer model $1500

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3920686356.html

Take your time, keep your eyes open, look everywhere that you can...

That thing looks a little too beat up (Roof is trashed???) for $1500, I paid only $500 for mine and its in much nicer shape.

Also, it says 5-speed 4x4 automatic... There is no way its a 5-speed auto, as the automatics in these are 4-speeds. Period. Im always skeptical about buying a vehicle from someone who doesn't know their ass from their head... Also the autos are kinda crappy in these trucks, so getting a manual is typically preferred.

 

[ab_slack]

It's from NJ, it likely is held together by rust if it spent its life in the state.

 

[jkufen]

b2, manual t-case, 5 speed manual, manual locking hubs and completely badass! My b2 is a Jeep recovery vehicle and it's all stock! You will not be disappointed with your b2 you just have to remember Jeep will beat out almost any other vehicle with bolt on accessories but the b2 will stomp all over those bolt on accessories! I am just ranting now ( JEEP! ) lol

but seriously its not really all about the vehicle you have its about the work you put into it.

 

[jhammel85]

I actually saw that Bronco on CL recently too. yeah the price is a bit high for it but it seems clean for an NJ truck, especially a Bronco II.

I say go offer him a grand and drive it home.

 

[wildbill23c]

Never needed to lift any vehicle. That would explain why you dont see your 4x4 fail on you.

I dont trust anything thats automatic, all it does is break at the worst possible time...

edit - like my s10 losing 4x4 on an icy hill at night...

Actually I've had times where I have abused my vehicles but I always maintain them and know the limits. Putting a lift on any vehicle stresses the drive train components period, doesn't matter what you do to it, its still stressing the drive train, putting axle shafts etc. at odd angles that the joints were not designed to be operated at continuously.

My new truck is an automatic, and its new enough I don't worry about it but yes I agree I don't trust automatic stuff period, at least with my B2 I can get it rolling and get it started if need be, can't do that with an automatic.

A lot of 4WD failures are due to lack of maintenance, I don't understand why people buy a 4WD and not maintain it, then bitch, whine, and moan when they realize that it doesn't work, and hasn't worked for god knows how long because they never use it. I try to put my trucks in 4WD at least once a month. This B2 isn't my first 4x4, my 1988 Ford F-250 4x4, saw very little 4WD use, it's 4WD use was pulling out tree stumps, and very rarely used the 4WD in the snow even. Most issue I had with it was a hub started making noise, and had both replaced. Other than that no I've never had a 4WD failure because I take care of my equipment unlike a lot of people I've seen, beat the shit out of their stuff, don't maintain it, then whine and cry when stuff doesn't work or breaks LOL.

And when you are a very limited income you tend to be more careful with your vehicles than people who have a lot of extra cash to throw around.

 

[nitrojunkie1029]

Yeah i am a little skeptical about buying anything from jersey. And i live in PA so finding a rust free b2 is going to be next to impossible, unless its out west. I really would rather an automatic for off road to emlinate the clutch work, so im most likely going to buy am auto unless its a nice manual.

 

[wildbill23c]

Yeah i am a little skeptical about buying anything from jersey. And i live in PA so finding a rust free b2 is going to be next to impossible, unless its out west. I really would rather an automatic for off road to emlinate the clutch work, so im most likely going to buy am auto unless its a nice manual.

I understand that, I bought my 84 B2 in Idaho, but it had to have come from a different state because of the rust, especially on the passenger side. Thinking possibly Utah because they use salt on the roads in winter, they use sand on the roads in the winter here in Idaho.

I got my B2 last November and I'm still getting mechanical stuff worked on, next up is going to be the rear main seal. I will be getting new tires here in the next month or so as well by saving my tip money from work I'm about $25 away from having enough money for tires, then I found out I've got to come up with another $200 for the alignment and camber kit.

These rigs are nearing "Classic" status and some already are so expect some issues regardless which way you go.

I liked my jeeps, but I also like my B2.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah i am a little skeptical about buying anything from jersey. And i live in PA so finding a rust free b2 is going to be next to impossible, unless its out west. I really would rather an automatic for off road to emlinate the clutch work, so im most likely going to buy am auto unless its a nice manual.

Get a dual t-case setup and you should be able to do better with a stickshift than any automatic not having a dual case can... the difference being while coming down off rocks, it's easier to maintain control (going up them it's about a wash either way).
The 117:1 crawl ratio allows me to do many maneuvers at an idle without having to touch the gas at all. One foot on the brake and the other on the clutch, I can move in whatever tiniest increments I need.

Mine isn't my DD, though it certainly could serve as such. I built it with the intent of keeping it streetable since I'm not wanting to trailer it around (my wheeling consists of traveling places, which often makes returning to a trailer difficult). It seems to work real well for me (several guys I wheel with with Jeep Wranglers envy it, especially for it's cargo room, they have to strap much of their camping gear precariously to roof racks and rear bumper carriers because the room inside is pretty much all consumed by one large cooler lol. All my gear fits in the back where it's down low and right over the rear axle instead of behind it).

Putting a lift on any vehicle stresses the drive train components period, doesn't matter what you do to it, its still stressing the drive train, putting axle shafts etc. at odd angles that the joints were not designed to be operated at continuously.

A lift doesn't stress things near as much as the bigger tires that usually accompany the lift. As long as your driveline angles are within reason, there's usually no problem with u-joints & such. Regearing your axles will alleviate the added stress from said tires on components ahead of the axle's ring & pinion gears (engine/transmission/transfer case/driveshafts).

 

[wildbill23c]

Problem I see are people don't do a reasonable lift, its 6"+ with every truck I see putting the driveline's at extremely high angles, first time they hit a trail and flex the suspension the drive lines snap, gee can't imagine why.

Regearing the axle won't fix the driveline angles though it will help break the drivelines faster LOL.

 

[Surrey]

Speaking of tires...

That is your biggest ally offroad. Having the right tires makes all the difference in the world. A shitty truck with good tires is gonna make it past a good truck with shitty tires 95% of the time. Keep that in mind when picking your truck out.

 

[wildbill23c]

Speaking of tires...

That is your biggest ally offroad. Having the right tires makes all the difference in the world. A shitty truck with good tires is gonna make it past a good truck with shitty tires 95% of the time. Keep that in mind when picking your truck out.

Tires, knowing how to drive, knowing the capabilities and limits of your vehicle, and most importantly don't be trying to show off cuz oftentimes that results in vehicle damage or getting stuck, seen it many times LOL.

Tires don't necessarily mean you will get through what you are going through, already proved that with my Toyota Tundra with Michelin Street tires and 1-1/2 feet of mud towing an ATV trailer loaded down with camping gear and a Yamaha Rhino down a trail a couple years ago. Those tires sucked, I still managed to get through that trail in 4WD of course without any issues, but I've been driving offroad for many years in 2WD trucks I didn't have the luxury of owning a 4WD until about 6 years ago so I got so used to driving in 2WD I still don't use 4WD very much.

Don't buy tires because they are mud rated either, unless you drive through mud every day they're useless otherwise. Contrary to what people think mud tires do not work very well in snow/ice. I try to just buy all season tires as they seem to work just fine for me overall even in mud, just try and get a good set that are at least 6 ply or you'll have constant flat tire problems.

I was talking to a lady today who owns a 1986 Ford Bronco 2 who lives about 12 miles out of town on a gravel/dirt road. She's owned her bronco 2 since new, and has driven that 12+ miles every day since and she says even in a couple feet of snow she has never had a problem or even thought she would get stuck. These Bronco 2's are extremely capable as long as you know what you are doing just like any other vehicle.

This past winter I drove my Bronco 2 around town a bit in snow/ice, and even with the pretty close to bald tires that are on it, I had no trouble getting around, I did use the 4WD a few times on side streets where the roads hadn't been plowed, but probably wouldn't have needed to, I mainly did it because I was testing everything to make sure stuff worked.

The only thing I really like about the jeeps is they have a large aftermarket for parts, and the Selec-Trac Transfer cases from the 80's and early 90's were great for all weather conditions they gave you 2WD, 4WD high range full time, 4WD high range part time, Neutral for towing with all 4 wheels on the ground, and low range most of which were 2.72:1 ratio. I also got low 20's for fuel economy with my Grand Cherokee and my Cherokee. Something I haven't been able to really get an accurate reading yet on my Bronco 2 as I don't get to drive out of town, and with the current tires on it I won't leave town with it anymore.

Personally for ease of maintenance I'd take the Bronco 2, for aftermarket parts availability I'd take a Jeep Cherokee or Wrangler. I really wish that there was a better aftermarket for the Bronco 2, as I bet it would catch on really quick with offroaders given all of the manual options the Bronco 2's had over the electronic/vacuum assist on some of the Jeeps.

I've had 2 Jeeps and really liked them, and both I had over 230,000 miles on original drive train and never had any major problems other than normal maintenance and wear items. Did a lot of towing with both and was extremely pleased with the power and handling.

I have had 1 Bronco 2 and a Ford Ranger both being 1984 model years. Bronco 2 is 4WD of course the Ranger was a 2WD. I took the ranger many many places offroad following 4WD's every year hunting. The Ranger towed a 16' travel trailer all over the country for 10 years and never had a mechanical problem, just routine services. My bronco 2 I'm not too sure about yet as I haven't been able to get descent tires put on it and have the camber problem in the front end corrected to be able to drive it too far. Kind of leary about going too far with it with the oil leaks it currently has as well. Hopefully this fall I'll get the oil leaks fixed, and here in the next month or so new tires and the camber/alignment issue taken care of then I'll drive it for longer periods out of town. My only huge complaint about my Bronco 2 right now other than the body damage/rust issues is the lack of A/C with the 100+ temps the past month and a half, where I work I'm in 100+ temps all afternoon cooking then I come home to the same it would just be nice to have working A/C but the B2 gets me from point A to point B so that's good enough for me.

Personally if I were in your shoes trying to decide on something offroad capable in stock form without breaking the bank would be the Bronco 2. The Jeep just because of the JEEP name is gonna cost you more plus parts are more expensive as well because most parts stores see the name Jeep and associate it with being a Toy of some sort so the price goes up on parts.

 

[Shran]

Problem I see are people don't do a reasonable lift, its 6"+ with every truck I see putting the driveline's at extremely high angles, first time they hit a trail and flex the suspension the drive lines snap, gee can't imagine why.

Regearing the axle won't fix the driveline angles though it will help break the drivelines faster LOL.

This is an excellent point. More lift certainly does not make a vehicle more capable. My rule of thumb has always been, use the smallest amount of lift necessary so that your tires do not rub while turning, at full stuff, or full droop. This keeps your center of gravity as low as possible and helps with driveline angles.

I can say this because I have actually done it - it is completely possible, assuming you cut enough out of the fenders and use the right offset wheels and/or spacers, to clear 33's on 8" wide wheels with NO lift on a first or second gen Ranger/B2 AND it looks fawking sick. My old tough truck, 84 Ranger, had this exact setup with factory front suspension and no rubbing anywhere.

This was the truck, LOTS of cutting, running brand new 33x12.50x15s.

 

[nitrojunkie1029]

This is an excellent point. More lift certainly does not make a vehicle more capable. My rule of thumb has always been, use the smallest amount of lift necessary so that your tires do not rub while turning, at full stuff, or full droop. This keeps your center of gravity as low as possible and helps with driveline angles.

I can say this because I have actually done it - it is completely possible, assuming you cut enough out of the fenders and use the right offset wheels and/or spacers, to clear 33's on 8" wide wheels with NO lift on a first or second gen Ranger/B2 AND it looks fawking sick. My old tough truck, 84 Ranger, had this exact setup with factory front suspension and no rubbing anywhere.

This was the truck, LOTS of cutting, running brand new 33x12.50x15s.

Yeah, but this isnt street legal which is what im going for now

 

[wildbill23c]

Depends on where you live LOL, some places like where I live I see vehicles on the road all the time and it makes me scratch my head how they could be street legal.