Pete's got a lot of it right. Depending on which system you are tasked to design, you are only given a certain amount of space to work in and have to deal with all the other systems blending in.
With such parameters and need for collaboration between teams, meetings become invaluable for communication and design simplicity.
They all have their + and -, and unless you pony up and buy new rust plain and simple will be a factor no matter where you go. It is one of the thrills of owning old stuff.
But if I didn't enjoy working on my '85 I wouldn't have done as much as I have to it over the past 14 years.
Pros & cons for each manufacturer, definitely. I'm very comfortable with my Gen III's; if I didn't enjoy doing it I would trade it in, too. But, there IS a threshold where it gets irritating.
I guess I should just have gotten on here and praised the situation that I'm in as an opportunity to expand my abilities to overcome adverse situations. Pete, I humbly apologize for not being appreciative that that Ford didn't weld all of the parts together rather than bolting them together. I will close by saying that after wrenching on things from weed eaters to Peterbilts, Harleys to Chevys, Volkswagens to Kawasakis, I can't think of anything I've touched that I have situations like I have on Fords.
Mellvis, do one doubts your abilities, and we can all empathize with the chores associated with a seemingly simple part replacement.
In response to your original question, yes, it is a fairly straightforward process to lifting the body of the Ranger up 1". The body cap bolts, though rusted, are still easier to remove than the exhaust bolts. The carpet needs to be pulled back, and the rubber plugs can be removed before accessing the heads. Be sure to spray some penetrating oil beforehand so that it gets a chance to work itself into the threads. It'll be easier to remove then.
If you are temporarily lifting it to remove the tranny, then some 2" x 4" blocks would do the trick. If you are actually interested in a permanent 1" body lift, people have used the polyurethane kits to hockey pucks with great success.
How bad are your body bushing? Are they deteriorated and original equipment?
I have a recommendation for you that involves a phallic shaped object and various orifices that are located below your waist.
Yeah, the Ranger is not at all bad. The Mustangs, from 2005 to 2014 the final step of the instructions for trans removal (and keep in mind at this point the X pipe is out), "remove transmission bell housing bolts, unhook clutch hydraulic line, slide trans back to clear dowel pins, ROTATE 90*, and THEN you have the room to pull it back and clear the clutch.
In the Mustang you have to lay the transmission on it's side to clear the firewall. The Ranger isn't bad.
Chevy and Dodge are still much better for engine bay space though. I have seen 2013 and 14 GMs and MOPAR trucks that I can crawl into the engine bay, with the engine still there, and close the hood. I can barely unplug things in a Ford. I think a big part of the problem there is that Ford insists on using very wide OHC engines, while the other two have retained narrower OHV designs.
1) Props to qualified techs that show their shiz. ADSM posts more correct information on this site than straycat has phallic-shaped objects in him at this very moment.
2) Sounds like a nightmare. What comes after rotating the transmission 90* and maneuvering it straight out? Legs & back day?
3) Are you an Oompah-loompah?
4) The Vettes still have a large OHV layout, while many Imports use large OHC designs. I guess it just depends on the manufacturer?