Anyone use farad capacitors on their systems??

[91stranger]

I've had a lot of friends that use capacitors on their systems and they make a huge difference however I have never personally used one. There's one online I am looking at but I don't want to buy junk. It's a Bullz Audio 4.4 4400 watt capacitor for $39.19 on Ebay. It's got good reviews but not everyone as using it for a car system. Some were using it for a solar setup. My system is a Memphis 1000.1 pro comp amp with a Kicker L7 12" sub. It hits really good but my headlights look like a rock concert every time the bass hits. So I just want some opinions if anyone has used this brand or if there is a brand they recommend. This seems like more than enough for what I need and I would rather have too much than too little.

 

[fastpakr]

As far as I know, the popularity of capacitors disintegrated at least ten years ago because they're nothing but a band aid / mask for charging system problems.

 

[Snoranger]

There's a video where someone cut one of them open. It was nothing more then a bank of twenty 10,000uf capacitors...
That's only .2 farad.

 

[91stranger]

I know what they are, I need one so my headlights stop flickering when driving at night.

 

[RonD]

Well they do work in some situations, it isn't a band-aid, just only useful in some systems
But yes, if you have enough AMPS from the alternator capacitors are usually not needed

A Capacitor stores AMPs so it is used in electrical systems to smooth voltages
If there is a spike in voltage the capacitor stores AMPs, if there is a drop in voltage the capacitor releases AMPs

When your sub amplifier draws higher AMPs your current system voltage drops so lights flicker
A capacitor on that amplifier could release enough AMPS so voltage didn't drop as much
2 Farads per 1,000watts is usually enough
So the 4.4 farad cap should be more than enough

Here is where the problem can occur, a capacitor stores AMPs, so it must GET the AMPs first to release them later.
If you listen to constant heavy subwoofer music the capacitor can simply run out of extra AMPs because it must "recharge" between each high AMP draw
You can adjust your crossover so the sub just hits on the very low frequencies, so capacitor has more recharge time

I don't think it would be a waste of money, because even a high amp alternator can only put out 60% of its capacity at idle, so it might work fine when driving but at a stop light.........................flickering lights again


And just a heads up about watts, you don't need what you think, lol.
Watts are geometric
2 watts is 10% louder than 1 watt NOT twice as loud, 10watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
So to get twice as loud with 500watts you would need.....................yes 5,000watts, 10 times the wattage
So a 500watt sub amp doesn't need as many AMPs and I doubt you would even notice a difference in bass response

 

[Grumpaw]

If you use a Flux Capacitor thats nuclear powered, you'll never run out of power.
Have one on out motorhome and still providing power after 8 years. Probably good for another 30-40 years.
This one is only $27 bucks on Etsy.

Grumpaw

 

[Bgunner]

I've never heard of Bullz Audio myself till reading this post so I can not say good or bad for the brand. For my previous systems I would run a 1 Farad Rockford Fosgate cap for 500-800W max rated sub amp. That was enough to keep the lights from dimming and the bass pounding. Again like RonD mentioned it will also depend on the music being played because rap/R&B usually have longer held low end noted than say Country or Rock. Metal to has some longer held notes plus usually being played in the key of E and E minor doesn't help, lower sounding note chords on the scale.

I know your vehicle is different but mine being a plain Jane with no power exorcises, I didn't have the light issues with my 1000W that I had with other vehicles so I didn't grab a cap for this one... yet. Yours having the issue makes me wonder if for some reason I have the higher amp alt installed.

BTW 91stranger, I have found the replacement 1000W amp, a nice Blaupunkt for mine just need to wait till after the holiday season because the kids need toys too. lol

 

[91stranger]

Yeah I listen to everything from country to rap and some rock n roll too. I will adjust the bass on the radio for country since too much bass makes country sound bad. Mine definitely dims the headlights and the dash lights when turned up. I can see it while driving really easily. I just replaced the alternator and it still does it. Its only a 95 amp alt but that's what the truck has always had and I've had this system in it for about 2 years on the amp and 1 year on the sub. Amp says its max is 1000w at 1ohm. I can't remember if the sub is wired for 1,2 or 4 ohms. I remember the wires behind the sub are crossed over to each other but I can't remember to which ones. Either way, I think I will go for the 4.4 capacitor just to be safe. It's only $8 more than the 2.2 so might as well go big. Here are some google pics of what I have. It's an older Memphis amp so its probably under rated unlike junk now-a-days where they say its 2500 watts but it can't make any more bass than an old school 500w Rockford fosgate amp. I figure i'll get a capacitor and then I need to replace my door speakers and maybe the rear speakers if the price is right.

 

[4x4junkie]

I have seen where a quickly-fluctuating load (like from an audio power amplifier) causes large voltage gyrations in the truck's electrical system simply because the truck's voltage regulator (alternator) is not capable of following fast changes in current fast enough (I ran into this myself using a 500W SSB 2-way radio transmitter). A large capacitor across the power leads to the amplifier will definitely do wonders here as long as the total load drawn doesn't exceed the output capability of the alternator.

The stock alt is rated at 95 amp, however the Ford book says that if it puts out 76A, it's "good", which indeed this is about what the stock alt's real-world max capability is. Remember, your truck's own electrical needs require about 20-30 of those amps too.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve always been a firm believer in running a larger alternator and wires. Actually took to running the ground back to the battery too. My original system years ago was stock alternator but I ran 4g power and ground direct from the battery to a Rockford Fosgate 800 amp that I had bridged and pushing a pair of RF 12" subs. Had no problems with lights and specs on that amp had it at 915 watts, or so the test sheet that came with it said. Wish it never got stolen.

 

[91stranger]

I've always tried to keep the ground as short as possible. I usually just attach it to one of the seat mounting bolts and haven't had any issues. I just got 4g wiring I was going to upgrade but haven't messed with any of that since I'm still trying to figure out what the grinding sound is when driving. Grinding sound only when I let off the gas at speeds above 45 mph... Checked all u joints, wheel bearings and been messing with the pinion nut but still has that awful grinding sound only when I let off the gas.

 

[8thTon]

I'd quick hook up that sound system so you can't hear that grinding anymore!