anyone have issues with Lucas stop slip

[91stranger]

So I put some Lucas stop slip stuff in and now on cold mornings it hesitates to go into drive. Like if you are driving and stop at a stop sign and go to take off there is hesitation between hitting the gas and actually going. Not sure if it is because of how thick that Lucas is or not. I only used about 1/3 of the bottle so I didn't think it would cause that much of an issue. Just wondering is anyone had this same issue. or if they did have this issue if it went away as the Lucas got worked into the fluid. Its only been in the trans for about 2 days now and I only noticed this at first start up on cold mornings. Doesn't do it after it warmed up.

 

[Mark_88]

Never used Lucas but I did put some "Transmedic" into my M5OD to reduce the whining noise and that worked...

I've heard so many negative things about additives over the years it's really hard to say whether some of them work at all...slipping transmissions I'm not familiar with but my Dodge has a very noticeable "clunk" if I let off the gas and hit it again right away while moving slow...sort of like a pedal blip.

I have heard that overfilling them is not good...but maybe that's just engine oil.

 

[Andy D]

drop the pan, replace the filter, and refill with Dex/merc

 

[Dangerrangers]

The Lucas worked in my taraus that clunked when I shifted into park. , And change the fluid while your at it ,it's probably toast .

 

[RonD]

So I put some Lucas stop slip stuff in and now on cold mornings it hesitates to go into drive. Like if you are driving and stop at a stop sign and go to take off there is hesitation between hitting the gas and actually going. Not sure if it is because of how thick that Lucas is or not. I only used about 1/3 of the bottle so I didn't think it would cause that much of an issue. Just wondering is anyone had this same issue. or if they did have this issue if it went away as the Lucas got worked into the fluid. Its only been in the trans for about 2 days now and I only noticed this at first start up on cold mornings. Doesn't do it after it warmed up.

Transmission additives do 2 things, they swell gaskets and seals to prevent pressure loss and they have a friction modifier that helps clutches and bands grip better

All automatics run on pressure, pressure holds clutches engaged or disengaged, and holds bands in place, bands are "brakes"
Reverse requires the highest pressure, 150+ PSI, so if there is a pressure problem it is most likely to show up first as slow to engage reverse, and if pressure gets low enough then no reverse.
Pressure is provided by the Main Pump(Front Pump) which is powered directly by the engine RPMs via the torque converters outer case
Pressure is lost when there are internal leaks in valve seals and gaskets.
Raising engine RPMs will, of course, increase internal pressure, since RPMs drive the pump.
So if you have to "give engine a little gas" to get Reverse to engage then you have some internal leaks starting, just FYI

And there is also the torque converter
Outside case of torque converter spins at engine RPMs, and there is a separate inside part that is free to spin at its own RPM and that is what is connected to the transmissions input shaft, drive shaft.
This "free to spin" part is what allows you to stop the vehicle while still "in gear"

Google: torque converter stall speed test

These tests can tell you if torque converter or transmission might be the problem.
3.0l Vulcan engine probably has a pretty high stall speed, I would look it up, but the 3.0l makes best torque at 3,000+ RPM

I would put in the whole bottle of "trans fix", it literally can not hurt the transmission, any problems after adding it are coincidental and/or preexisting, i.e. people don't add "trans fix" unless they think there IS already a problem, lol.

 

[91stranger]

Transmission additives do 2 things, they swell gaskets and seals to prevent pressure loss and they have a friction modifier that helps clutches and bands grip better

All automatics run on pressure, pressure holds clutches engaged or disengaged, and holds bands in place, bands are "brakes"
Reverse requires the highest pressure, 150+ PSI, so if there is a pressure problem it is most likely to show up first as slow to engage reverse, and if pressure gets low enough then no reverse.
Pressure is provided by the Main Pump(Front Pump) which is powered directly by the engine RPMs via the torque converters outer case
Pressure is lost when there are internal leaks in valve seals and gaskets.
Raising engine RPMs will, of course, increase internal pressure, since RPMs drive the pump.
So if you have to "give engine a little gas" to get Reverse to engage then you have some internal leaks starting, just FYI

And there is also the torque converter
Outside case of torque converter spins at engine RPMs, and there is a separate inside part that is free to spin at its own RPM and that is what is connected to the transmissions input shaft, drive shaft.
This "free to spin" part is what allows you to stop the vehicle while still "in gear"

Google: torque converter stall speed test

These tests can tell you if torque converter or transmission might be the problem.
3.0l Vulcan engine probably has a pretty high stall speed, I would look it up, but the 3.0l makes best torque at 3,000+ RPM

I would put in the whole bottle of "trans fix", it literally can not hurt the transmission, any problems after adding it are coincidental and/or preexisting, i.e. people don't add "trans fix" unless they think there IS already a problem, lol.

I actually used to work at a Honda factory and I built the turbines that where inside the toque converters. I made the turbines and the pumps but mostly turbines so I understand a lot about torque converters. My initial issue was occasionally it would "shutter" downshifting from 4th to 3rd while cruising 55 mph and then I get to a hill. I found the trans was over filled so I syphoned some out and added 1/3-1/2 bottle of stop slip. Its so thick it took a while to get all the way into the trans so I checked it a few days later and noticed it was a little low. Added a quart of merc 5 and seems ok. Still has the occasional shutter but I still have the rest of the bottle I may put in. just wanted to hear horror stories about this stuff if people had bad luck with it in the past.

 

[RonD]

"Trans fix" products are safe to use

Horror stories are usually from people that have a dying transmission and try to "fix it" with an additive, trans fails any way the "the product" they used is to blame, lol.

No one uses the stuff if trans is working fine, so "grain of salt" when reading those stories
A failing transmission is STILL a failing transmission with "trans fix" added, it just may last a bit longer

 

[wildbill23c]

Automatic transmission problems are there regardless of whatever "fix" you try. Eventually its still going to fail, your best bet is to get rid of the vehicle ASAP, or take it to a transmission repair shop while its still able to move on its own power. Regardless its not cheap to repair automatic transmissions...and as they become more and more complex and more and more computer driven the prices continue to increase in repair/replacement costs .

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have never had any luck with "miracle in a can" quick fixes.

Shot parts are shot parts.