• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Any reason why I was getting 10.7mpg?


Not to steer anybody in the wrong direction. If the computer thought the motor was cold and added more gas won't the RPM's also be higher? Question could the intake be clogged with something? From the filter back to the intake.

No, your engine doesn't run at high RPM's when it's cold does it?
 
At idle with the throttle closed AIR makes the engine run faster, not fuel.


AD
 
Not to steer anybody in the wrong direction. If the computer thought the motor was cold and added more gas won't the RPM's also be higher? Question could the intake be clogged with something? From the filter back to the intake.

No, your engine doesn't run at high RPM's when it's cold does it?

At idle with the throttle closed AIR makes the engine run faster, not fuel.


AD

with all this talk.. is there anything i need to be concerned about? because i have no clue what all this means :)


or can i still go ahead and focus on the ECT replacement over my spring break from school (2 weeks from now)?
 
I'd do the ECT, it's more than likely it... Read what Allen D posted a while back, he knows way more than I do... If it hasn't had a tune-up (cap and rotor, plugs and wires) recently you should probably do that too...
 
I'd do the ECT, it's more than likely it... Read what Allen D posted a while back, he knows way more than I do... If it hasn't had a tune-up (cap and rotor, plugs and wires) recently you should probably do that too...

what would i say to like a Firestone auto shop? Just bring it in and say I want to replace my cap and rotor, and plugs and wires?


idk lol.
 
Uh, I'd do a tune-up myself if i were you... Search around on the internet about it, It's easy as pie... Just unscrew two screws, pull the cap off, pull the rotor off, replace both (make sure they are replaced in the same position as the old ones)... Replace plugs and wires (one at a time so you don't get them mixed up like I always do)... Drop in an air filter... Shouldn't take you more than an hour...
 
Uh, I'd do a tune-up myself if i were you... Search around on the internet about it, It's easy as pie... Just unscrew two screws, pull the cap off, pull the rotor off, replace both (make sure they are replaced in the same position as the old ones)... Replace plugs and wires (one at a time so you don't get them mixed up like I always do)... Drop in an air filter... Shouldn't take you more than an hour...

what does a "tune up" entail?

my brakes were practically completely redone not too long ago (couple of months)... new pads, rotors, bearings... so those are fine.

i am due for an oil change.. got a coupon for a free one, so that will get done over spring break as well...

i wouldn't mind doing some stuff by myself though.. and would like a list of some things to look into doing by myself.


numbered list would be good...

and describe the part maybe? instead of like the BAE valve.. and the MMT wire.. lol (of course those are made up).. but you know what i mean.

sorry, but i am such a beginner lol.. my dad/grandfather never taught me these things.. especially since my dad was never into car stuff anyway.. i am determined to start my kid young on car repair, and football. :)
 
Exactly what I just told you is the typical tune-up for a vehicle with a distributor... Change the cap and rotor on the dizzy, and new plugs and wires... Air filter, and oil change... The distributor cap is the thing that goes on the top of the distributer that the rotor makes contact with inside the cap body and sends electricity to the spark plugs through the spark plug wires... Th rotor is inside the cap on the distributor body, it rotates around, and contacts the metal points on the cap to send the electricity to the plugs...
 
Just do the tuneup yourself...if you feel uncomfortable with it then have someone who knows about cars give you a hand.

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are actually kind of a bastard on the 2.9 that you probably have. Unless you have a 2.3. Maybe you said but I don't remember. Anyway the hard parts are the two plugs closest to the firewall and the cap is not really very fun to remove and you will find out why if you decide to do it yourself.
 
Exactly what I just told you is the typical tune-up for a vehicle with a distributor... Change the cap and rotor on the dizzy, and new plugs and wires... Air filter, and oil change... The distributor cap is the thing that goes on the top of the distributer that the rotor makes contact with inside the cap body and sends electricity to the spark plugs through the spark plug wires... Th rotor is inside the cap on the distributor body, it rotates around, and contacts the metal points on the cap to send the electricity to the plugs...

:icon_surprised:

Just do the tuneup yourself...if you feel uncomfortable with it then have someone who knows about cars give you a hand.

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are actually kind of a bastard on the 2.9 that you probably have. Unless you have a 2.3. Maybe you said but I don't remember. Anyway the hard parts are the two plugs closest to the firewall and the cap is not really very fun to remove and you will find out why if you decide to do it yourself.

i have a 2.9L
 
It's not hard trust me, the most difficult part is actually reaching the plugs on the passenger side, other than that it's pie...
 
how would the temp sensor alter the gas mileage? I've never heard that before. Can someone enlighten me?
 
how would the temp sensor alter the gas mileage? I've never heard that before. Can someone enlighten me?

it's been answered in previous posts...



from what i understanddddd


the temp sensor isn't working correctly, so it sends a message and says that the ?engine? is too cold, so then more fuel gets dumped in to heat it up?


not exactly sure, but i'm hoping that i'm slowly learning on this website.






and honestly, i've been to quite a few sites.. but looking for a reliable site (and without knowing my shit.. idk what is reliable or not).. so if anybody knows of any sites, that would be great.
 
No, your engine doesn't run at high RPM's when it's cold does it?

No but when the engine gets warm it sure wouyld run faster. The proof is when I had an Audi that had a fifth injector or cold start injector that would stay open. The engine would run well over 1000 rpm's. Yes when the engine was cold you didn't notice it but when it got warm you would.
 
it's been answered in previous posts...



from what i understanddddd


the temp sensor isn't working correctly, so it sends a message and says that the ?engine? is too cold, so then more fuel gets dumped in to heat it up?


not exactly sure, but i'm hoping that i'm slowly learning on this website.






and honestly, i've been to quite a few sites.. but looking for a reliable site (and without knowing my shit.. idk what is reliable or not).. so if anybody knows of any sites, that would be great.

:icon_thumby:

No but when the engine gets warm it sure wouyld run faster. The proof is when I had an Audi that had a fifth injector or cold start injector that would stay open. The engine would run well over 1000 rpm's. Yes when the engine was cold you didn't notice it but when it got warm you would.

:icon_confused: Why? We already told you it wouldn't make your engine run faster, lol...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top