Another Shift Rail Plug Thread

[snoopdoggie]

Ok, I called the dealer and ordered the Ford plugs (came in a package of 4 for some reason...) But just for grins, I googled the part number. It looks like they're actually selling freeze plugs for this application now, not the rubber plugs (but I guess I'll find out when I pick them up in the morning).

So... from my research, I gather that freeze plugs are designed to go into engine core holes that have lips built in such that the plug slides right in and stops at the lip, at which point you flatten the dome to expand and seal the plug in place, right?

I don't think the shift rail holes have the lips though, do they? So they're just supposed to be a press-fit of sorts? Everyone recommends using a socket to pound them in - do you use the "nut side" of the socket to only push around the edge of the plug, or do you flip the socket around so that you're applying force to the entire face of the plug (except for the ratchet hole, of course)?

Sorry for all the long, stupid questions. Just a Newbie trying to get it right the first time before my tranny seizes

Thanks a lot!

What PN did the dealer give you?

 

[harriw]

Ford part number he pulled from the computer was 99305-1800. I didn't get out there this morning and I don't think they're open tomorrow, so probably Monday evening I'll head out there.

I did a google search and came up with this: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=406493

That, and pacodiablo's experience make me think that's probably freeze plugs, not the rubber.

-Bill

 

[rboyer]

I'm working on this very same project this weekend so first thing this morning, I called NAPA and asked for those Dorman and or Dana freeze plugs and they told me they don't cross with anything and wanted to know the sizes of the holes I was plugging. Since I didn't have anything to get in there and measure without taking out the transmition, I just went for the pull'em out slobber on RTV (red) and shove them back in option. I would still like to have the freeze plugs on hand since from everthing I have read says that this won't be the only time I will have to point my attention that direction and would like fix it forever the next time. Just so everyone knows I did the work from the bottom since the clips that hold the shift plate to the floor boards broke and the nut just spins and I didn't have any helpers.

If you really want the steel plugs and are having a hard time finding them locally I will give you three of them for free. If shipping would only be a dollar or too I would consider not even asking you for anything to ship them. I order them 100 at a time and get them so cheap that I don't even care and probably have over 150 of them laying around at the moment.

 

[locovaca]

I'm working on this very same project this weekend so first thing this morning, I called NAPA and asked for those Dorman and or Dana freeze plugs and they told me they don't cross with anything and wanted to know the sizes of the holes I was plugging. Since I didn't have anything to get in there and measure without taking out the transmition, I just went for the pull'em out slobber on RTV (red) and shove them back in option. I would still like to have the freeze plugs on hand since from everthing I have read says that this won't be the only time I will have to point my attention that direction and would like fix it forever the next time. Just so everyone knows I did the work from the bottom since the clips that hold the shift plate to the floor boards broke and the nut just spins and I didn't have any helpers.

I got mine at O'Reilly (a local one actually had them in stock). They list them as 16.2 mm

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Prod...d=1236475326831&cycleCount=1373&currentPage=0

 

[golley]

If you remove the kick panels, the carpet molding at the doors and the air box in the middle under the dash, you can remove the 3 star bolts in the shifter, pull it straight up and out (have shifter in neutral first) and just fold the carpet back and remove the 4 bolts in the big cover plate that's around the shifter. Then it's real easy to get to the shift rail plugs and do whatever you want. From the top!

Make sure you get the spring washers around the shift ball back in ok; the guys at the shop messed one of mine up and it tore the shifter shaft boot; i've got to replace that boot as it leaks a little under operation.

 

[powderburner]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/shift_rail_plug_maintenance.htm

 

[golley]

....On second thought, it might be better to just remove the single shift rod bolt out and leave the inner boot and ball assembly in place. BUT sometimes the bushings/spring washers/ball pins need replacement. You can get this kit on ebay...just do a search here for the info, you'll see more, like Powerburn has linked to above. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR SHIFTER IS IN NEUTRAL before removing the whole thing, if you go that route.

 

[snoopdoggie]

Ford part number he pulled from the computer was 99305-1800. I didn't get out there this morning and I don't think they're open tomorrow, so probably Monday evening I'll head out there.

I did a google search and came up with this: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=406493

That, and pacodiablo's experience make me think that's probably freeze plugs, not the rubber.

-Bill

Okay. I'll have my son look into it. He works at a dealership and they have told him before they are not available, the rubber ones. Here is an eBay auction for the shifter rebuild stuff. I have bought several from this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0289251026&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

 

[rboyer]

Okay. I'll have my son look into it. He works at a dealership and they have told him before they are not available, the rubber ones. Here is an eBay auction for the shifter rebuild stuff. I have bought several from this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0289251026&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

That's the same person that I get mine from except I don't buy them through ebay. They actually come from a transmission builder down in Texas. They manufacture their own parts hence the reason why they are the cheapest.

 

[harriw]

Yep, I already replaced my shifter bushings when I got the truck (I was a member of the "no bushings left at all club"). I got mine from a different ebay seller, but actually wound up ordering by phone after talking to them. Northwest Transmissions I think it was?

If you remove the kick panels, the carpet molding at the doors and the air box in the middle under the dash, you can remove the 3 star bolts in the shifter, pull it straight up and out (have shifter in neutral first) and just fold the carpet back and remove the 4 bolts in the big cover plate that's around the shifter. Then it's real easy to get to the shift rail plugs and do whatever you want. From the top!

Golley - that's a GREAT tip - I actually had the kick panel half out the other day looking for my fuel inertia switch, and noticed the carpet came loose when the door carpet molding was unscrewed... I think I'll give that method a try. If I can get the rubber plugs...

Okay. I'll have my son look into it. He works at a dealership and they have told him before they are not available, the rubber ones.

Snoopdoggie - I would definitely appreciate that. I'd prefer the rubber plugs if I can get them (even if I have to replace them every year or two or three) - I'm not sure I trust myself with those freeze-plugs.

Thanks guys!

-Bill

 

[Simple_serf]

My 04 has rubber plugs in it....just for the info.

I generally check trans fluid on both of my trucks (both m5od's) every time I change the engine oil. The 04 looses about a cm of trans fluid every time (out the top). Again, I check it regularly and change tranny fliud once a year, so I don't really worry too much about loosing fluid on these.

 

[clambake]

I did mine yesterday from the top using the rubber plugs from Ford. Sold each as: 1L5Z-7A107-AA. I paid $6.40 each. Added a little RTV Black for insurance.
How do I post pics on this forum?

 

[harriw]

Thanks clambake - now I'll have a part number (for the RIGHT part) in hand when I go to the dealer tomorrow.

 

[dorman68]

I got mine from the dealer, not cheap but I just wanted to get it over with.
I pulled out the three old plugs with needle nose pliers, cleaned up the area with brake cleaner, and popped the new ones in. It took me 15-20min for the whole job. Two years have gone by and it is still bone dry.

 

[Anezangl]

Do I see three more plugs in the front of the top cover? Is there a total of six that need plugs?