Another Axle Swap Question - '04 axle in a '94?

[mephiska]

I did some searching but didn't find anything really conclusive. Swapping rear ends is new to me, so I want to make sure I don't drop cash on a rear end that requires major modifications to work. The main goal is swapping to a 4.10 ratio.

I currently have a 1994 B3000 with 7.5 rear, 9" drum brakes, 3.73 ratio and a limited slip (Axle code F6).

I have found a rear off a 2004 Ranger that is roughly what I want - a 4.10 ratio. It's an 8.8, but from what I understand I would only need the larger U-bolts.

Beyond that, will everything else just bolt up?

I think the brakes on this rear had ABS, which my truck doesn't have. Would this be a major problem?

Edit: Just found out it has 10" brakes. It is the complete rear axle. Do I need to replace the master cylinder?

 

[bigmark303]

As long as the axle is from a Ranger it will bolt right in. Only if the axle is from an FX4 Ranger will you need larger U bolts. The FX4 Rangers have 31 spline axle shafts and the housing diameter is 3.25". Any other model Ranger has 28 spline shafts and the housing is the same size as your stock 7.5 (2.80")

As for the ABS its just a sensor on the very top of the differential and if your truck does not have the option you can leave the sensor unpluged bolted to the case and it wont bother anything.

The only thing with jumping from 9" to 10" brakes is the fitting diameter for the brake lines to the wheel cylinders is larger on the 10". So your 9" brake lines from the splitted on the differential to the wheel cylinders will need to be reflared to fit the larger fitting. Takes 10 minutes and super easy.

 

[mephiska]

Hmm, they had it coded in their system as a V313L, so I think it may be off an FX4. I guess I'm going 31 spline...

Thanks for the heads up on the brake line flaring. Sounds like it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[mephiska]

The only thing with jumping from 9" to 10" brakes is the fitting diameter for the brake lines to the wheel cylinders is larger on the 10". So your 9" brake lines from the splitted on the differential to the wheel cylinders will need to be reflared to fit the larger fitting. Takes 10 minutes and super easy.

Sorry for a noob question, but what tools would I need to do this? Is this similar to doing the flare on a plumbing fixture?

 

[adsm08]

I don't know anything about plumbing flares, but you need a flare kit to flare brake lines. The hand-operated ones are not expensive. I have a Blue-Point that I think was about $40 or $50, but they aren't really made for working on the car. You almost have to have the flare bar in a vice to get a good flare. MasterCool makes a super deluxe one that I wish I had, hydraulic hand pump, fancy dies, no need for a vice, and perfect flares every time.

Only problem with that set is that it is almost $400.


For your particular application I would go to NAPA and find line adapters. They are line unions meant for screwing a line into a component with a different flare type or a different fitting size. I have them on my truck at the master cylinder because I put a 95 Explorer master in my 87 Ranger and had to go from a double flare to an ISO bubble flare and didn't have enough space to make the correct flare on the line.

 

[mephiska]

Would this tool work?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ing-Tools-Double-Flare/_/R-SER161A_0006404130

This tool looks like I could use it with the lines still on the truck.

The adapter route sounds good too, though I did a quick search on the Napa website and they've got pages & pages of adapters, and I have no idea which one I'd need.

 

[adsm08]

I can probably figure out which one you need.

 

[mephiska]

That's be fantastic! What info do you need?

 

[adsm08]

That's be fantastic! What info do you need?

From you, nothing. I was just going to take one of the 10" wheel cylinders I have laying out in the garage with me tomorrow when I run to NAPA and then play with adapters until I found the right one.

 

[mephiska]

If it all works out I'll mail you a couple of my homebrew beers

 

[MajorWedgee]

If it is a 31 spline fx4 axle, make sure you grab the plates for the u bolts also, as they're different, or you may be able to slot yours to work.

Also, didn't the hub dia change in 98? I remember reading about a guy with a 97 who had to have his back wheels bored after he swapped to an 03 axle.

 

[mephiska]

Thanks for reminding me, I read that I'd need to modify or change the spring plates. They've got all the mounting hardware from when they pulled it off, hopefully I can make it work.

Thanks for the heads up on the wheels. I'll be sure to test fit my current ones before I do the swap. Last thing I'd want is to do all the work on swapping rears and find I can't get the wheels back on.

 

[Yellowsplash]

The wheel cylinders never had bubble flare, AFAIK...some of the later models used a 7/16"x24 tubing nut (normally found on 1/4" line) instead of the standard 3/8"x24 that is found on 3/16" brake line. Using a 3/16-1/4 adapter found at any parts store will work to adapt the two together. No need to re-flare your line.

 

[mephiska]

Okay I picked up my rear axle on Monday. It has the tag V313A on it, and I'm told it came off a 2004 Ranger, possibly an FX4.

Everything looks right, it came with the spring plates along with some U bolts that are too long (they said it was lifted), so I just need new U bolts.

As I'm looking the thing over I noticed this electrical connection that I marked in this photo

Here's a larger image with more detail.

I'm assuming it has to do with the locker, is that correct? If so do I need to wire it up? Obviously my 1994 doesn't have the control switch for it, but I can rig something up, not a big deal.

I have it on jackstands in my garage right now, when I was checking the brakes I turned one of the drums, the opposite wheel turned in the same direction. I assume that means it's locked, or that it has a locker in it?

 

[bigmark303]

Okay I picked up my rear axle on Monday. It has the tag V313A on it, and I'm told it came off a 2004 Ranger, possibly an FX4.

Everything looks right, it came with the spring plates along with some U bolts that are too long (they said it was lifted), so I just need new U bolts.

As I'm looking the thing over I noticed this electrical connection that I marked in this photo

Here's a larger image with more detail.

I'm assuming it has to do with the locker, is that correct? If so do I need to wire it up? Obviously my 1994 doesn't have the control switch for it, but I can rig something up, not a big deal.

I have it on jackstands in my garage right now, when I was checking the brakes I turned one of the drums, the opposite wheel turned in the same direction. I assume that means it's locked, or that it has a locker in it?

The connection you circled is the sensor related to the ABS. It does not need to be plugged in on your truck.

If both drums rotate in either direction together then you have a locker. If you rotate one drum and it takes a little bit of rotation for the other one to start rotating in the same direction then you have a limited slip.

Also they left you the brake lines from the splitter on top of the axle so you dont have to do anything to modify the lines. Just screw in the flex hose from the splitter to your fitting on the frame rail and you are good to go after bleeding the rears.