Andres629's still at it! '87 BII this time!

[kris97ranger]

Just spit balling here but like I said I wouldn't wanna get so deep in the project and then end up not wheeling in way too long and it sucks up a bunch of cash. Now what If you got another set of fullsize radius arms and weld some wedges on the rear axle? Then ran coils and a pan hard out back? It be the same setup as the stock front in the older fords you'd get a ton of flex and it'd be different. I dunno just an idea

 

[Andres629]

Well I've been researching... I can get the TG Creeper Joints for cheap, but even cheaper are leaf spring bushings. I can use four Creeper Joints at the axle, and four leaf spring bushings at the frame end of the link bars. I've seen it at work on a Sami around here and the thing flexes like nuts. So that's what I might do. Plus, at least then if I don't like it, I can cut the end off and weld in a bung with four more flex joints. And I'll be running air shocks, not coils. I need to buy coils anyway, why not just buy air shocks? It's only about $150 more than a set of coils, and saves so much work.

 

[kris97ranger]

True I just figured if you could get the radius arms from a junk yard it may be cheaper plus it's somthing you know works and you can get parts for it at any parts store, bushings etc.. Even if you went air shocks with those arms. But like I said I just figured I'd throw it out there.

 

[BONES]

We built my buddies lwb Sami rear suspension that way, triangulated 3link with rubbers at 1 end of the links and heims at the other end, keeping the heims at the frame to keep them a little more cleaner, it flexs like mad but eats rubber bushings for dinner, he's wheeled it for 2 seasons so far and has replaced bushings 4 times already. Like you said tho, bushings are elcheapo, he's already spent enough on rubbers to have replaced them with crawler joints.

Not saying don't go that route, just saying be prepared for to replace the rubbers sooner than later.

 

[Andres629]

Yeah, I know that much. The Sami guy replaced them twice a year which isn't bad... I get bushings at ASF's cost, and that is $5 for a pair. So $10 said and done is okay if it's even twice a year. $20 a year, I can replace them for five years and still be below cost of two heims.
But yeah... build it once, build it right... we'll see what happens. Got a new sticker gettin' made as well. All you Bronco dudes will love it. You're going to want one.

 

[Andres629]

Yeaaaaaahhhhh, got my air shocks for the front. Also got my trac bar and rear disc brake conversion stuff. Trac bar is an adjustable unit from Zone Off-Road for a lifted Super Duty, 33" in length when fully turned out. Now just waiting on wheels and tires.
Found a set of four 38.5 TSL/SX on rims for $1000, at 70-75% all around, but there's a set of five IROK's in the 37" flavour on rims with Inner Air Locks, one at 80%, one at 100%, three at 65-70% for $1400... Input?

 

[kris97ranger]

well ive heard nothing but great things about the irocs.

but just looking at it the 38s are cheaper with a tiny bit more tread, but theres one less. and both are on rims.

hmmmm. you could always get one new 38" for a spare or pick one up used later down the road. and get diy beadlocks. but then you would pretty much be at the same cost as just getting the irocs right now.

so i say irocs

 

[Andres629]

And the IROK is lighter. Softer for rocks, too. Maybe a little less likely to break axleshafts? I dunno, just looking for input from fellow TRSers!

 

[kris97ranger]

seems to me that the iroc would be the best choice but i havnt ran and sx (yet!) or irocs so i dunno

 

[BONES]

I would think the softer Iroc would be harder on axles as they provide more grip on rocks, the sx being a harder tread would slip easier.

So are you keeping your bead locks you already have?

I wonder how much haggling you can do? Never know you may be able to get either set for at least a few hun less than advertised.

Personally, I like the SX's for their thick sidewalls and all around burly design, they can take more sidewall abuse before ripping than the irocs from what I have seen.

Remember Irocs are directional so your spare will be one side or run backwards when needed on the wrong side, if that even matters to you. LOL. I've also "heard" that the Irocs softer tread wears faster than the sx's. This is hearsay tho, not experience.

Those inner air locks are a good $500+ a set of 4 from what I have read online, that's getting close to half the price advertised. this is the better deal imo. Offer the guy $1000 cash in hand, see what he says.
http://www.innerairlock.com/beadlocks/

I'd also offer the guy with the SX's $600 cash in hand, people like cash in hand, see what he says.

Then if they both said yes, I would grab both sets, swap the sx's over to inner air locks and sell the 5 Iroks and the extra wheels I had left over for $800 for the tires obo and a couple hun for the wheels obo, lol.

It is your choice in the end, this is just my 2 cents, lol.

 

[kris97ranger]

that all sounds like a very good plan.

but would the weight of the sx's cause more stress on the axles? i have no clue but id think the heavier tire would cause more damage then the traction of the others or is it one of these one half dozen to the other deals?

EDIT: that sounded worse then i meant it to. im not trying to dissagree or anything like that im just wondering

 

[Bennybooster]

I really like TSL's

 

[86 slo-vo]

iroks wear real fast on the road

 

[Andres629]

iroks wear real fast on the road

I am picking up a tow rig. But keeping this 'streetable'... haha.

Thanks for the input, guys. We'll see what happens, but I'm leaning toward the IROK simply 'cause there's five and there are Inner Air Locks... I know what they cost, ain't cheap. I'm going up to half ton running ear, so no, I'm not keeping my current wheels. Actually sold the rims and the MT/R's as well.

 

[BONES]

Right on man, good for you!!

Helps support the build when old parts leave.