Alignment issues (pics of shop alignment printout inside)

[aeidian]

Are you jacking up the axle when you make the adjustment?

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

Ya, putting a jack under the axle, right at the bolt and lifting it off the ground so I can get the tire off.

 

[kryptonitecb]

That was my best guess.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[aeidian]

That was my best guess.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

Best guess? I don't follow.

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[kryptonitecb]

Means I don't know

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[4x4junkie]

Instead of tightening the nut to 100ft-lbs, tighten it to like 15 or 20. It'll make getting it loose each time much, much easier (once you get it to where you want it, then tighten it to the full torque).

With those numbers shown on the sheet you got from the shop, I would say a few washers under your coil spring seats are in order here (would put your numbers with a 0° bushing much closer to where you want them).
Also, are you using the roll plate (or some other means to eliminate binding between your front tires) like is suggested you use on the steering tech page that was posted earlier? If not, then that may explain why you're getting so much apparent positive camber.

 

[aeidian]

Instead of tightening the nut to 100ft-lbs, tighten it to like 15 or 20. It'll make getting it loose each time much, much easier (once you get it to where you want it, then tighten it to the full torque).

With those numbers shown on the sheet you got from the shop, I would say a few washers under your coil spring seats are in order here (would put your numbers with a 0° bushing much closer to where you want them).
Also, are you using the roll plate (or some other means to eliminate binding between your front tires) like is suggested you use on the steering tech page that was posted earlier? If not, then that may explain why you're getting so much apparent positive camber.

I didn't use anything other than jacking up one side removing the tire, loosing the nut, beating the ball joint down, adjusting the inner, rotating the bushing for the outer than putting it together. Since the tire isn't even on, and I'm not taking any measurements I didn't see the need to put bars or a plate down. The shop gave me the measurement from their machine, I adjusted off those then put it back together. The shop guy did say he wondered if front spring sag might be causing the issue. I didn't really understand what he was saying.

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[4x4junkie]

Then that is where your problem is.

From that page:

Wheel alignment must be measured with the FULL weight of the vehicle on it's tires. Because the suspension beams act as levers, you cannot support them anyplace else except directly under the tire's contact patch, otherwise it will effect a change in the suspension's height, causing an improper alignment after the vehicle is put back down on it's tires.

It is also imperative that there is no bind or tension between the front tires on the ground (such as what occurs right after it's been let off of a jack), this can affect the height of the suspension as well.

 

[aeidian]

Then that is where your problem is.

From that page:

So you're saying the shop measured the alignment wrong?

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[doorgunner]

Once a vehicle suspension has been adjusted, it NEEDS to be driven around the block and then parked on a level spot in order to check camber again.

 

[4x4junkie]

So you're saying the shop measured the alignment wrong?

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No, you measured it wrong.

I didn't use anything other than jacking up one side removing the tire, loosing the nut, beating the ball joint down, adjusting the inner, rotating the bushing for the outer than putting it together. Since the tire isn't even on, and I'm not taking any measurements I didn't see the need to put bars or a plate down. The shop gave me the measurement from their machine, I adjusted off those then put it back together. The shop guy did say he wondered if front spring sag might be causing the issue. I didn't really understand what he was saying.

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You need to make sure there's no bind between the tires (purpose of the roll plate, which the shop's rack also has a similar device on it), take your camber measurement, jack the weight off the suspension so you can adjust your bushing, replace the tire, then lower it back down onto the roll plate to verify your adjustment was correct.

If you're using the shop's spec sheet as your starting point, then you only need to set the tire on the roll plate to verify your adjustment was correct.

Use a board or something of similar thickness as the roll plate under the opposite front tire so the truck is level.

 

[Dugan]

Instead of tightening the nut to 100ft-lbs, tighten it to like 15 or 20. It'll make getting it loose each time much, much easier (once you get it to where you want it, then tighten it to the full torque).

With those numbers shown on the sheet you got from the shop, I would say a few washers under your coil spring seats are in order here (would put your numbers with a 0° bushing much closer to where you want them).
Also, are you using the roll plate (or some other means to eliminate binding between your front tires) like is suggested you use on the steering tech page that was posted earlier? If not, then that may explain why you're getting so much apparent positive camber.

Washers would work if it was // \\ not \\ //

 

[4x4junkie]

His sheet from the shop shows negative camber numbers.
That would be the tires like //-\\ .

 

[JJtheJet43]

Im having the same issues with a 1990 ford ranger that has a 2-3" lift. what could it be? I dont have drop down ibeams. and there is know one around my town that is welling to tell you what is actually wrong.