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air compressor


97ranger22bronco

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
181
City
Dallas, TX
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I currently have a 27 gal husky compressor that delivers 6.0 SCFM @ 40 PSI, 5.0 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Is that enough to run a paint gun without having to stop frequently for the compressor to refill? I'm thinking that when it comes time to paint, the cab and bed will be painted separately so the area would be smaller. Jegs has a 60 gal air compressor on sale that runs 110 v that would be my alternative if I have to step up the equipment.
 
I did mine with a craftsman 17 gal, and believe it or not I didn't have to stop a bunch... 350ml paint cup. After the first panel was finished the compressor never stopped so was 100% duty which I didn't like, but every time I refilled the paint cup it caught up enough I never ran out of air (refill paint cup after every 2.5 panels). I shut it off the second I was done to let it cool off asap rather than cleanup first and then shut it off. It seems to have had no ill effects.
Flash time between coats was 20 minutes but I let it go a full 30 to be nicer to the compressor.

SCFM Delivery At 40 psi: 4.3 SCFM
SCFM Delivery At 90 psi: 3.3 SCFM

 
Bigger would be better, but might be ok. Simply my opinion there, I've got no experience painting myself. My first vehicle, 84 Ranger, was painted in by dad in his shop with an old 20-25 gallon Sears Craftsman compressor and it's specs probably weren't much better than what you have. That compressor is long gone, so no way to find out.

You'll need to take your compressor ratings into consideration when shopping for a spray gun. Spray gun technology has advanced a lot in the last 20 years thanks to EPA hitting the industry for emissions (think solvent and overspray). The increased efficency to reduce waste, also means you can accomplish a lot more with a lot less.

If I were in your position and determined that I needed bigger compressor to do the job, I'd be looking for around 12 cfm @ 90 psi as a minimum. A compressor that size is going to have a good tank capacity, and will provide enough flow for nearly continuous operation without overworking the motor.

All just my opinion on the subject. I can tell you that after the sears compressor died we made do with small cheap HF 20 gallon type compressors for a while, and it was kind of depressing. Not good for much more than inflating tires IMO. We eventually got into larger 60 gallon tank, trwin sylinder, single stage, 5HP (on mine atleast) 220v compressors. Night and day difference. If you can afford the price of admission, it is definitely worth the upgrade. At the price of that 110v Jegs compressor, I'd save a bit more and buy a better 220v. If you don't have 220v outlet/circuit to dedicate to it, wire it to plug into your dryer outlet when you need to use it.
 
You might be able to paint one panel at a time, maybe. With painting the volume is just as important as cfm, unless you have a scroll compressor that’s designed to run continuously.

I have a 5hp 80gal at work that I’ve used for painting industrial machine cabinets. It will not keep up on large panels. the tank was big enough that by the time I was finished a panel there was still enough pressure.

You only need about 10psi, but like 20-25 cfm.


I think someone on here has a thread about it, but they ganged together 4 or 5 small cheap compressors they got off Craigslist to paint their truck. Would be a cheap option if you can do a little work.

If you can pick a compressor with a 80gal or 60gal tank and a blown up head you could use it as an expansion tank for your little guy. It would take a while to fill, but you’d have more painting time.
 
I know the 17 gal sounds way too small right off the bat, but I tell ya it did it like a champ. 3 coats base, 4 coats clear (I had plenty of clear left over and wasn't happy with how it laid down so did an extra).... unless you are painting a car a day for a profession you can get by with 27 I would think easy unless the compressor is just about to blow a gasket or something.
 
I helped a buddy paint a lower boat hull on a like 25’ boat a few years ago. He had an older Craftsman 33 gallon compressor. We ran two Harbor Freight guns off of that and yeah, the compressor pretty much ran continuously but it worked. That was a lot to ask about that compressor but we were working with an epoxy type coating that specified you have to keep a wet edge so we each took a side and went bombing down along it.

When I can get a garage I’m going to be looking for a 220v compressor, something 60-80 gallons and ideally Ingersol Rand
 
Mine is a 60 gallon Rolair and supposedly it makes 16.0CFM @ 100 PSI. I have painted a lot of stuff with it and it has no problem keeping up with an HVLP gun but it does run a lot.

If I'm just shooting Rustoleum or something quick I have used my little 8 gallon Craftsman one but I have to stop & wait for it to catch up frequently. I would never use it for any big painting projects. It's just handy because it's in my shed and doesn't require rolling out a bunch of hose from inside the garage. I have a 27 gallon Ingersoll Rand to replace it but haven't used it for painting yet - should be fine I would think.

I guess my advise would be to tell us what kind of paint you're using... if it's single stage 2k or something like Rustoleum then I would say you might be OK but proceed with caution. If you're using a base coat/clear coat then I would find a different compressor. You have to time your layers on that just right, keeping a wet edge is pretty important and you need consistent air.

When I can get a garage I’m going to be looking for a 220v compressor, something 60-80 gallons and ideally Ingersol Rand

IR is not any better quality than any other cheap one. I have one... it's just OK. Lots of Chinese parts. Quincy is probably your best bet if you buy new. I was a big Rolair fan until I tried to buy parts for it, filters were impossible to find (and it's a current model!!!) also the pressure switch died early and was very expensive.
 
I was also going to mention that regardless what compressor you use, I would recommend a water separator/air drier setup. I think mine is a Campbell Hausfield brand, cheapo but it works OK, there are two little canisters that air flows through out of the compressor, the first one accumulates water and the second one is full of desiccant pellets that help to dry the air somewhat. It is amazing how much water gets caught. I remember needing to empty it between painting body panels. You don't want that oily water mixture contaminating your paint.
 
+1 ^

I bought the nicer harbor fright $6 one that is clear plastic and serviceable... plastic broke 1/3 of the way through the first coat. I recommend the $3 disposable ones or spend some more $$ for something not harbor fright.
 
I'm probably going to go for a single stage, rather than base/clear as I've never painted before; also without a paint booth (although I'm considering getting an inflatable one). I've been checking out Eastwood paints, or I may go get some PPG
 
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If you have never painted before (I was that way in august)... I am going to advise cheap paint... spray some tractor supply in a light color (yes it is enamel), and then clear coat on top of that. No sense spending $$$$$ money for high dollar paint to put it over novice body work. I spent $800 on paint (just paint, not bedliner, supplies, etc) and while it looks good from 100' at the back of the parking lot the hail damage shows when you get 10' away... way too much money for something I will have to redo soon.

Let me link you to my honest review of my paint job (more body work)... and another guys asking for advice on painting.
I knew every ding would show and up till the hood thought I had done my best... well a novice's best is still far from a master.

 
I think Brian’s hood looks half decent.

Kinda on top what he said. The money is in the prep, spraying the actual paint is only 10% of the job.
 
Good prep is the key to success. Which means a LOT of sanding. You need to be at least 320-400 grit before spraying primer and then block out your primer in the same grit or finer. Anything coarse will show through your paint. Use a bright light to go along and look for imperfections before you paint. Anything not smooth will show through.
 

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