aFe Pro Dry S drop in filter

[jcmtbfreak]

aFe Pro Dry S vs. Airaid synthaflow drop in filter

Anyone had any experience with aFe Pro Dry S OE replacement filter? I like the idea of not having to oil it. Seems like a performance filter that really would pay for itself since I wouldn't have to buy recharge kits. I know it probably wouldn't flow quite as well as a comparable K&N or other oiled filter, but with the money saved, and the ease of care, I really don't care!!! It'd still allow better flow than my current Fram paper junk. Wanting the usual, smidgin more power and gas mileage with good dust protection. What do you guys think? Pros? Cons? Thanks.

 

[Big Jim M]

I think that FRAM will collect more dirt and flow more air than your engine can burn..that's what I think! If vehicle manufactorers put poor performing intake systems on there vehicles the CEO would fire their engineers.. There will be NO GAIN from changing from OEM air filters even NASCAR uses stock type filters.. granted they use 2 of them but they are running at 9,000 rpm and we aren't.
Big JIm

 

[exbass94]

How much is this filter? Would you really be saving a lot of money? I did the math before, and I found that a $50 K&N takes about 100k miles to pay off (as in just break even), as opposed to a $10 paper filter.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

How much is this filter? Would you really be saving a lot of money? I did the math before, and I found that a $50 K&N takes about 100k miles to pay off (as in just break even), as opposed to a $10 paper filter.

that number cant be expected to be accurate for more than a fraction of the population due to the extreme variation of vehicle maintanence habits and driving conditions. some people change their paper filters quite often...while others will run them way past their useful service life.

my K&N has already paid for itself in the 20,000 miles ive had it, including the cost of cleaning kits...but my truck sees more mud, sand, and water than most people would expect by looking at it.

 

[Psychopete]

FWIW, Fram paper filters are typically more restrictive than an OEM Motorcraft paper filter per se. (At least that's what the tests on bobistheoilguy.com point out) Their oil filters are garbage for this motor as well.

"To clean a dirty Pro Dry S filter lightly tap it on the ground or vacuum with a standard house or shop vacuum. A vacuumed Pro Dry S filter will return to 95% of its original performance and airflow characteristics. For a full cleaning the filter may be washed with soap and water to return it to near-new condition and 100% airflow capacity. Costly solvents and cleaning kits are not required to clean our new Pro Dry S filters."

Interesting.. I really wonder how much this thing actually filters, and how small of particles.

It also states "And at 99.4%* filtration levels, Pro Dry S filters accomplish all this without sacrificing engine protection." It would be nice to know what that asterik references to. The only thing I can think of is that they did the test with large particles.

It also states that the filter needs changed less often. With that thought in mind, where is the rest of it going? One would think that less cleaning intervals would indicate that the filter doesn't filter quite as well as an OEM.

IMO, I would rather have a slight loss in air flow to sacrifice more filtration. Dirt is one of the worse things for an engine.

Just some thoughts..

Pete

my K&N has already paid for itself in the 20,000 miles ive had it, including the cost of cleaning kits...but my truck sees more mud, sand, and water than most people would expect by looking at it.

The biggest turn off for me is the process of cleaning and re-oiling. It's a messy hassle. It's more effective for me to stop at the auto store on my way home from work and pick up a new paper filter and be done with it.

 

[exbass94]

I'd say it's pretty accurate for the majority of the population who change their air filter every 20k miles or more. $10 paper filter every 20k miles = $50 for 100k miles. Same as a $50 K&N. Add another ~$10 for the cleaning kit, and it takes 120k miles to break even. If it actually is cost effective for you, then great keep doing what you're doing. I just think everyone should actually do the math before they buy, and then decide if it'll be worth it.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

I'd say it's pretty accurate for the majority of the population who change their air filter every 20k miles or more.

thats my point. what research have you done that states most people change their paper filter every 20k? the reality is that filter changing habits vary widely for any given population, and ONLY the percentage that waits to change it every 20,000 miles or more are going to take 100k to make up the cost.

im not argueing your math and i agree that crunching the numbers BEFORE buying a re-usable filter is a good idea. im just saying that assuming he falls into your 20k service group is a little brazen.

 

[mjonesjr]

I'd say it's pretty accurate for the majority of the population who change their air filter every 20k miles or more. $10 paper filter every 20k miles = $50 for 100k miles. Same as a $50 K&N. Add another ~$10 for the cleaning kit, and it takes 120k miles to break even. If it actually is cost effective for you, then great keep doing what you're doing. I just think everyone should actually do the math before they buy, and then decide if it'll be worth it.

If someone follows the proper maintenance schedule for their vehicle, then they should change the filter every other oil change.

 

[jcmtbfreak]

"To clean a dirty Pro Dry S filter lightly tap it on the ground or vacuum with a standard house or shop vacuum. A vacuumed Pro Dry S filter will return to 95% of its original performance and airflow characteristics. For a full cleaning the filter may be washed with soap and water to return it to near-new condition and 100% airflow capacity. Costly solvents and cleaning kits are not required to clean our new Pro Dry S filters."

Interesting.. I really wonder how much this thing actually filters, and how small of particles.

It also states "And at 99.4%* filtration levels, Pro Dry S filters accomplish all this without sacrificing engine protection." It would be nice to know what that asterik references to. The only thing I can think of is that they did the test with large particles.

It also states that the filter needs changed less often. With that thought in mind, where is the rest of it going? One would think that less cleaning intervals would indicate that the filter doesn't filter quite as well as an OEM.

IMO, I would rather have a slight loss in air flow to sacrifice more filtration. Dirt is one of the worse things for an engine.

Yeah, thats one thing I was wondering about. What does that asterik refer to. With only a 2 layer media, I've been wondering. Thats why I asked. For the 2.9 I can find it for roughly $40. I don't know about you guys, but I've spent that much or more in the last 4 years that I've owned the B2. We are also looking to put one on my moms 08 honda CRV. Try to squeeze more mileage out of it. We're still on the stock filter as well, so anything purchased for that would be for the life of the vehicle. Seems to me that the AEM dryfilter might be a little better....but they don't have it available for jack squat. Doesn't even show anything for the 08 CRV or one for my dad 07 sport trac, much less my 87. So thus....the afe. Though I do like the idea of being able to wash the afe filter with common detergents I'm already going to have on hand, not having to buy anything special. I'll keep seaching for reviews of filtering performance. I'll post any good findings. Any more thoughts about it? I have considered trying to get an AEM dryflow cone filter and fab something up....dunno though. Still considering options, and that doesn't help the rents vehicles any.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

use a drop-in replacement, not a cone filter. there are no advantages to a cone setup over the stock filter assembly...and its difficult to turn most cone setups into a true cold air intake, which your stock intake is.

 

[jcmtbfreak]

Found this...AEM came out above the rest it seems to me. Couldn't hold the volume, but thats no biggy, just clean it more often, and with having no oil, its a snap! Just tap a few times. Sadly the aFe wasn't one tested.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/shop4parts/154_0611_jeep_air_filter_upgrades/test_results.html

 

[jcmtbfreak]

use a drop-in replacement, not a cone filter. there are no advantages to a cone setup over the stock filter assembly...and its difficult to turn most cone setups into a true cold air intake, which your stock intake is.

Yeah, thats what I'm looking for, but AEM doesn't make a drop ins for a whole lot of vehicles. So I was thinking maybe fabbing something together somehow with a cone. Main thing I'm trying to figure out, how well does the aFe filter. I'm finding stuff on the AEM, and it does quite well. But nothing so far on the aFe, which does make a drop in filter for the 2.9.