Aerostar 4X4

[maitee1]

Wow!

I just joined here recently and I must say that thing is awesome. That is some ingenuity and master craftsman stuff there.

Congrats on the twins as well.

 

[Rulebreaker]

Well I ripped the TK4 out tonight. Mutant Pony got me a fresh C5 for it. Both trannys are 24" long so I wont have to change anything drive line wise. I'll need to somehow hook the Aero shift cable to the C5. I'm also going to remove the front seats and put a bench seat in the front making it a 9 seater. I'll have to change the transfer case shifter location once I put the bench in. I've got a rear wheel seal leaking so I've got to change that too. I still need to build a rear bumper for it yet. RB

 

[Rulebreaker]

I mounted the A4LD cable bracket to the bell housing of the C5. I hope I have it in the right spot. It's on the bell housing because the C5 is so much shorter than an A4LD. I took the C5 kick down arm off and put the A4LD one on and flipped it over like it was on the A4LD. I also modified the shift arm to fit the Aero cable. So if all goes well the shift cable's will all work. I need to build the shift linkage for the doubler and T case as the front bench seat wont allow me to use the shifters i was using because the Tcase one is right next to the drivers seat.

I'd like to use the A4LD starter (right one) anyone know if it will work? Or will I need to use the 2.8L starter.

 

[Mutant Pony]

If the c5 would bolt to a4ld flywheel then you could use the starter. You could take both flywheels to your local machine shop and have the a4ld flywheel redrilled for the c5 torque converter.

 

[Rulebreaker]

If the c5 would bolt to a4ld flywheel then you could use the starter. You could take both flywheels to your local machine shop and have the a4ld flywheel redrilled for the c5 torque converter.

Worth the time? RB

 

[Mutant Pony]

Well, It would be easier to just use the 2.8 starter. The bigger A4LD flywheel would reduce the load on the starter and the a4ld starter is gear reduction so I would think it would last much longer than the 2.8. The 2.8 is MUCH cheaper to buy a replacement for though.
The 2.8 also has only 1 wire going to it. That is one less wire to have a problem with. The A4ld starter has Battery power to it at all times, just brings back bad memories of my Chevy days of battery cables melted to the headers.
I would just run the 2.8 and keep a spare around.
On the other hand, If you use the A4LD starter it will reduce confusion later.

 

[Will]

What about the tooth count? I don't know about this, but I suspect the 2.8 converter and starter is the way to go.

Redriverranger has this setup. I don't think he is using the 2.8 starter. I haven't seen him post here in a long time. He said the 2.8 converter is very loose with the much stronger 4.0. That's a good thing with the weight of that van.

 

[Rulebreaker]

The 2.8L starter wont bolt up to the 4.0L because the armature dust shield hits a rib on the engine block. So i dented the dust shield enough so that it clears and bolted it up. Then i got to thinking that it might short out. Does the whole armature get hot when power is applied? I know the arm goes down and makes contact before the motor spins but if it is touching the dust shield is it a dead short? I dont think they touch but they probably only clear by a 1/16 but it's hard to say. RB

 

[Will]

I dunno. I said RRR ain't using the 2.8 starter. That must be the reason. I wish I knew how to get a hold of him because I am contemplating what you are doing--as I have been for years.

 

[Mutant Pony]

When you put power to the armature it creates a magnetic field which pulls the arm down and in turn engages the starter drive. Denting in the dust shield could cause the drive to contact the flywheel when the starter is not engaged. If you dented it to far you will know as soon as the engine starts.

 

[Rulebreaker]

When you put power to the armature it creates a magnetic field which pulls the arm down and in turn engages the starter drive. Denting in the dust shield could cause the drive to contact the flywheel when the starter is not engaged. If you dented it to far you will know as soon as the engine starts.

Cool it should work then. The cover is not dented enough to engage the gear I was smart enough to check that. I only had to dent the cover a little. I got some of the cooling line run tonight. I'm running it through the radiator and two Aerostar axillary coolers. They are not manifold style but hopefully it will be enough. I took the stock BroncoII C5 filler tube and shortened it about 5 inches and so I'll check it through the engine cover which will be easier than the stock Aero fill tube because with the van lifted and my front bumper you just cant reach it that easy. Tomorrow i will get the rest of the stuff I need and hopefully be able to start it. RB

 

[metalmacguyver]

Glad to see more progress!

 

[PARKINGLOT]

looking good man...

 

[Rulebreaker]

The starter works just fine. I got it wired up tonight and it rolls the engine over. I've got to rewire my NSS and reverse lights yet. RB

 

[Rulebreaker]

I got it together and drove it tonight. It is just staying in 1st gear and not shifting. If I pull the shifter down in 2nd it does shift into 2nd no problem. If i put it back in drive it just stays in 2nd. I'm thinking vacuum modulator but the parts stores are closed. I have another used one I might try yet tonight. There is some ATF in the vacuum hose so that's what makes me think it's bad. Anyone have any other idea's? Reverse works great. RB