Advice on axle brackets

[AlaskanRider]

Hey, so I am finally doing it. Ive had my d35 ttb bouncing around in my bed for a month now and finally have the steel and time to mate it to my offroad 2wd frame.

I was hoping for some advice on my design. I have a 2'x2' piece of 3/8", I think it will be solid enough. Below is my design.

Sorry about the pic, it is really the best I could do with my stupid camera. Proportionally, it's a little skewed, but the basic design is there. I may do A bit of clearancing on the 18"x21" plate, and on the bracket closest to the dif, but other than that, it's all there.

I am trying to accomplish this with the least amount of lift that I possibly can, and still clear everything. I am anticipating at least 1" of lift, but might actually need closer to 4". I hope to not exceed 4".

The design is based on the TTB jeep "juggy" build on pirate 4x4, just a little wider to accomodate the d35.

I will probably weld a beads along the bottom of the x-member, and it will bolt to the passenger side TIB bracket.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I am really open to advice, as I haven't done anything like this before.

The only thing I am sure about, is that I want to do this and I don't want to buy a 4x4 ranger. Also I am sure that I currently lack funds for an SAS. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.

 

[4x4junkie]

As I understand it, the bracket for the driverside TTB beam (the one that mounts toward the passengerside) will bolt 100% to the 2WD Ranger frame... It's where the passengerside beam bracket goes (behind the crossmember) that's different. That might save a fair bit of work being you would only need to turn your attention to fabbing up one bracket rather than two.

 

[AlaskanRider]

It's where the passengerside beam bracket goes (behind the crossmember) that's different.

Hey thanks for the reply!

I have thought about the idea of only fabbing 1 bracket, but I'm just a little skeptical that everything will clear using the stock bracket. Things are TIGHT under that explorer, and the 4x4 x-member has alot more contours than the 2wd one.

I figure with this setup, I can always lower the bumpstops on the frame to insure that everything clears, and if they do have to come down an inch or two for clearance, it wont be as big a deal if I already have some lift build into the brackets.

Oh* I also plan on tying that plate that will sit parallel with the ground to the 2wd TIB bracket, providing more support for the rear of the plate, as it will hang off the back of the x-member by a little. Like you said, the 2wd is about 1" narrower.

 

[4x4junkie]

I think with proper gusseting your plan would work, though I wonder if all that is really needed.
I'm guessing swapping in the 4WD crossmember is more work than you want to mess with?
Maybe a lifted 4WD bracket might work for the driverside beam (something like Tuff Country's 2" leveling brackets), then welding some sort of a spacer bracket to attach the other 4WD axle bracket to your crossmember.
(there was someone on here a long time ago who I seem to recall did just that. I tried searching for it but now I'm thinking it may have been lost in the board changeover 4½ years ago... anyone here happen to remember who it was?)

 

[AlaskanRider]

I think with proper gusseting your plan would work, though I wonder if all that is really needed.
I'm guessing swapping in the 4WD crossmember is more work than you want to mess with?
Maybe a lifted 4WD bracket might work for the driverside beam (something like Tuff Country's 2" leveling brackets), then welding some sort of a spacer bracket to attach the other 4WD axle bracket to your crossmember.

Ive considered swapping the cross members, although the two I have are either rusty or bent. The explorer's is the best candidate but I read somewhere the frame was a little different than the ranger's.

On that note, I was tossing around the idea of making some body mounts for my ranger cab and welding them to the explorer frame. I will scrap the explorer's body, but I think ima keep the frame around, in case this bracket doesn't work out. It looks like a tougher frame than the rangers.

There was a truck on here called Chester where someone had pulled this off.

I was thinking about using some square 1x1 tube to extend the x-member back an inch, but I was afraid it would create too much leverage on the x-member, particularly if I needed a couple inches of lift to make it all clear.

Maybe it makes more sense to do it that way though. I guess those brackets experience lateral forces primarily, maybe I'm overestimating the amount of force they will see.

I'm going to check my measurements again tomorrow (for the 3rd time, lol), and revisit the idea of extending the x-member back a bit.

Thanks for the advice, ill post the progress (if any) tommorrow.

 

[4x4junkie]

I think if you ran the 1x1" along the entire rear length of the crossmember (bending or sectioning it so it follows it's curvature), you'd be fine. I'd use the thickest wall 1x1" stuff you can find though (.180" if available, but definitely no thinner than .120").

Good luck on it.
Post up some pics when you get done.

 

[AlaskanRider]

Well, Im not done but I did make some progress on the bracket.

No dice on using stock axle brackets, an inch difference doesn't sound like much but there is no way it's gonna clear.

I think the rear lip of the crossmember would rest on the center u-joint at static height.

So it was torch time!

A little more cutting.

Time for some quick/dirty tacks

And we have just entered the third dimension! If only I had some of those glasses...

Seems to fit surprisingly well.

A little clearancing

I hope to do more tommorrow. I really need to get this thing under my truck to have a better idea of where to cut for the passenger side beam.

 

[AlaskanRider]

The brackets are drilled for 4" of lift. There is enough steel there to go up to 6", but I could also drill holes down lower for less lift. Well see how it all looks when I get it under the truck though.

I plan on boxing the brackets as much as possible. At least the top and back sides.

Clearance is pretty good between the diff and passenger side axle's bracket.

 

[disciplerocks]

Clean and simple. I like. Be sure there's more than enough clearancing and plenty of gussets.

I like the smile on the motor.

 

[88_Eddie]

looks good so far

 

[AlaskanRider]

Clean and simple. I like.

Thanks, that was the goal. TTB confuses me enough already, doesn't need to be any more complicated, lol.

I pulled my front end yesterday, and encountered 4 setbacks.

#1, my crossmember is going to need to be cut extensively. The drivers side rear lip hits the pumpkin about 6-8" before the bumpstop on its way up.

#2, Ran out of oxygen. Thought the gauge was bad, but nope, it really did only have 65 psi in the tank.

#3, Diff is a serious leaker. Finally got the thing thawed and this happened in about 15 seconds when I tipped it knuckle down.

This is thick oil too, the floor cant have been much warmer than 35 F.

#4 Brrrr.

A funny side note, straight Antifreeze will not pour at this temperature. You need to mix it with water, otherwise it just turns into this gooey slushy solid.

 

[4x4junkie]

Looks like a good start for sure. Lol'ing @ your temporary pivot "bolt"

 

[AlaskanRider]

Lol'ing @ your temporary pivot "bolt"

Well it fit real good. Haha, no that is a 1/2", the biggest that fit the chuck, but the real pivot bolt is just a tad bigger.

 

[96RedRanger]

Thats a intersting idea. I think your going to end up with more then the 1" of lift you wanted tho. Its okay, more lift=bigger tires

Just currious, what are you doing for your transfer case?did that go in with the 4.0 conversion

 

[AlaskanRider]

Thats a intersting idea. I think your going to end up with more then the 1" of lift you wanted tho. Its okay, more lift=bigger tires

Just currious, what are you doing for your transfer case?did that go in with the 4.0 conversion

Haha, I just commented on your build! I really should be doing an SAS like you, but im just working with what I got. I like IFS anyway, but if I had a d30 that's what would be going under here.

Looking like I'm going to need like 4".

Transfer case went in with the 4.0 conversion. It was a 100$ bronco 2, with 31" tires, 89k and a bad 2.9. Its got the manual shifter.