Accelerator cable mod and/or replace

[Mark_88]

Original Poster: Mark_88

Difficulty: 2 out of 10

Time to install: 30 minutes to an hour.


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation:

In the event that you need to replace the accelerator cable or want to modify the way it connects to your pedal this should help. The original config on my truck had the cable coming in about 2” below where the pedal attachment is and this became a wear point that eventually broke my cable. I modified the pedal so the cable attaches directly where it comes through the firewall.

NOTE: This configuration still requires zip ties or some other "spacer" due to changing the pedal attachment location. The only way to stop using the zip ties is to custom cut the end of the cable and affix a stop on it that is right against the pedal. If you make up a complete cable that can be slipped in where the old one is with proper connectors (I know, you can buy one for $75) this will save time and headaches.

Tools Needed:
- Drill and 1/8” bit
- Hacksaw
- #8 socket
- wire cutters

Parts Needed:
- Replacement cable (I used a bicycle brake cable, I also have one from a FI Mustang that is a bit thicker gauge to use later)
- Clothes line clamp or similar
- Cable end bobble (not sure what they are actually called)


Cable end bobble
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00098.jpg


Clothes line clamp
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00095.jpg


NOTE: If using a bicycle brake cable to replace a broken one, DO NOT CUT the cable until you have everything in place and tightened up. I would also recommend solder or something else to keep the cable from splaying after it is cut.
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Steps 1:


Remove the accelerator pedal using a #13 socket (I think that's a 9/16”) and disconnect the cable (if not broken).


This image shows the nut holding the pedal
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00091.jpg

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Steps 2:


Drill a 1/8” hole at the location shown in the photo below. With the hacksaw, cut into the pedal side just slightly higher than the hole and down to the hole making a slot for the cable to be installed.


This image shows the hole and the slot cut to the hole and the position relative to the original holes.


http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00094.jpg
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Steps 3:


If you are replacing a broken cable you will need to remove it from the carb or FI connector and remove it completely. On the original spring assembly, cut the end off about an inch up and you should be able to remove the cable and insert the replacement.


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Steps 4:


Thread the new cable through the spring assembly at the carb or TB end and pull it tight. I added a cable end bobble at this point to give it more strength.

This image shows the cable end bobble in place as well as the original cable end. The hole on the end of the original cable is larger than the bike cable end so this was needed in my application.


http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00099.jpg
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Steps 5:


Feed the cable through the firewall and ensure it is fed through where you can attach it. If using a brake cable that is not cut make sure it is not caught up on anything and that you can work with it. Once that is done, attach the spring loaded end to the carb and connect to the firewall.
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Steps 6:


Clear the cable from the pedal area (get it out of your way from under the dash) and attach the pedal to the mount.
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Steps 7:


Feed the cable through the new hole in the pedal or slip it through the cut in the side of the pedal.
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Steps 8:


Either use another cable end bobble (I found them too hard to get at under the dash) or the clothes line clamp and feed it up to where it meets the pedal. Make sure to loop the cable back through the opening so that it gets double protection from slippage.


Note: Due to limited room to work and other difficulties associated with contorting your body, you may want to add some zip ties behind the clothes line clamp before trying to tighen it completely. This will give you a few inches of play in the end of the cable so you can move it around and allow tool access.


This image shows the clothes line clamp loop.


http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/IMG-20111230-00097.jpg
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Steps 9:


Test that the pedal has no play in it before tightening the clothes line clamp. This would include checking the connection under the hood to ensure that the cable was not pushed back out during the install process.

After I installed one of these cables last summer I noticed it did stretch a bit so I had to add zip ties. Using the proper gauge cable would reduce the amount of stretch over longer periods.

I would suggest carrying a spare brake cable from a bicycle or similar and have it ready to install if possible. I now carry one cable that is ready to go in the event of another break. After modifying the pedal the way I did I can now replace a busted one in under ten minutes.

 

[gjm4l]

(Channeling borat) very nice. I like!

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the input...this can be used with FI models as well if needed. I don't hear of too many cables actually breaking, but it does happen.

I also found a hood release cable today that would work because it is braided steel, not like the solid steel on some vehicles. Makes it more flexible.

 

[Mark_88]

My bicycle cable finally wore through...not bad for $5 worth of parts...and I think it wore through because of the way I had it looped through the clamp...the rest of the cable was fine except that one bit...so I might buy another and make a second replacement...I'm using one I had to modify off a FI 2.3 Mustang...seems OK but I've developed a carb backfire since putting it on...now have to research that...ah, well...