AC Flush

[Moreflying]

Thank you for those tips. I've got them in my notes. Also what do you guys think about an inline filter? I was looking at some at Autozone for about 11 bucks. It looks like it fits right on the back of the compressor.

 

[Moreflying]

Here's a picture of the inline filter

 

[4x4junkie]

I would base that on how clean the system is inside when you open it. If it's clean, I don't think there's any need (I didn't use any filters on mine, nor is one used factory).
Additionally, it would be two more o-ring seals to potentially leak too.

When I was doing research for mine, filters I had seen were round ones that installed inline with the suction hose itself, and I think used a media more like that of an air-cleaner's or that of an oil filter maybe. That would catch a lot more debris (and not clog up right away) than that little screen on the one in that pic. If you think you need a filter, that would be the type I'd look for.

 

[Moreflying]

True. I think I'll need to see the system evidence inside before hand. I think it would be a good idea to have one on hand when i do open the system and end up needing it. How does the in line filter youre talking about hook up? I know my compressor did not fail but was leaking. So I hope it's clean in there. My order came in so I'll put up a pic of that. I'm going to verify the air gap on the clutch.

 

[Moreflying]

This is what I've got so far.

 

[4x4junkie]

I didn't pay real close attention to the filters, though I think I recall seeing it hooked onto the compressor's fitting, then you'd connect your existing hose to the filter.

 

[Moreflying]

What do you guys know about these books? Any good?

 

[Moreflying]

This is my solution to get a more accurate recharge with small cans when part of a can is needed to get the exact amount....say that last 2-5 oz or so. What do you think? I see it done on a bigger scale with the 30lb tanks. No oil mixed in the can, just strait r134a starting with a known amount.

 

[4x4junkie]

I don't see why that wouldn't work.

On my Ranger, two standard 12oz cans seemed to be the perfect amount. Maybe around the last oz or two of the 2nd can the upper (outlet) tube on the evap coil suddenly became cold, at which point I knew the evap coil had completely filled with freon and the system was full.

As for books, I got quite a bit of good info out of the Haynes book here
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...94829080&counter=3&itemIdentifier=581470_0_0_

I thought it explained everything pretty good when it came to the theory of AC systems all the various procedures used when servicing one (diagnosis, retrofitting, testing and what-not).

Not familiar with the ones you linked though (I typically prefer an actual physical book in my hand if I'm spending any $$$ on it)

 

[Moreflying]

Thank you for the link for the book.

I'm curious about some of the oils out there. I see PAG 46 with ICE 32 in it. Is that just a gimick to stay away from? It's hard to find the 46 around here, but I saw the 46 with the ICE 32 and wonder if it's good or bad.

Also, if I'm not flushing the evaporator do I need to accout for any oil in that component when filling the system with oil? In other words if my system requires 7 oz max should I reduce the amount of oil by a bit since there may be oil in the evaporator?

I know it is suggested to put x amout of oil in the compressor, x amount of oil in the condenser, and accumulator and so on, but if I don't flush the evaporator will I need to compensate any amount less when I put the system back together?

I also read that if you have a muffler on the high side (I do) that it cannot be flushed and to replace it or remove it. I guess I'll replace it (that would be the whole suction/discharge hose set) because I don't see anyway to remove it. Anyway, the quest continues and I'm learning more..$$

What are the thougts on thread sealer for threaded parts of the system? Thanks a lot guys!

 

[4x4junkie]

ICE-32 is a performance treatment. Going by what a guy I spoke to said, it's not detrimental in any way like a leak sealer or something along that line would be, though I suspect you'd be paying extra for it and as I mentioned earlier, I can't tell much difference in my two A/C systems, one with it and one without (FWIW, I've bought straight PAG-46 oils at both NAPA and at Carquest).

The deal with flushing the muffler is the same as for a serpentine-flow condenser, it's virtually impossible to get all of any debris particles out of one, so replacement is a better option. Though if the system is clean to begin with, then there's nothing to worry about.

All the fittings use o-rings, or in some cases are a compression type fitting. Thread sealer would do all of nothing for it, but could gum things up. Best thing to do is replace all the o-rings with new ones throughout.


As for the oil in the evap coil though, that one I'm not so sure on... The Ford manual says if you replace the evap core for any reason, to put 3oz oil into the new one to maintain the correct oil charge in the system. I would think that would mean subtract 3oz in your case, though I wouldn't feel comfortable with it myself (maybe blow as much oil as you can out with an air compressor (maybe flush some lacquer thinner through it at the same time) and then just add the full amount of new oil on it).

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If your real careful with the thread sealer just dont allow it to contaminate the oil. If you didnt allow any crap to get in the components I believe the accumulator has a screen filter built in. Water is the worst enemy it turns to acid and destroys the compressor. Never leave any of the components exposed to ambient air for any amount of time. With the fluxuation of the barometric pressure moisture migrates into the coils and lines and condenses into water. Once in the oil it is real hard to remove it, For home heating and a/c we always add a filter drier I am not sure about auto a/c tho. Just be real careful when you open a system up you can allways blow the coils out real good with nitrogen just before you seal it up to remove the old oil and moisture and add a little more oil to it to compensate. Water will be your worst enemy it will destroy the compressor and cause the system to fail premature.

 

[4x4junkie]

The accumulator has a desiccant bag in it.

PAG oil is highly hygroscopic though, so definitely try to minimize it's exposure to the air as you're putting it in (and again, evacuating it with the engine hot should help any moisture that does get in come out that much easier).

 

[Moreflying]

Thank you again for the input guys. I gotta say that some of the flush liquids out there are very expensive. So pricey (45-50 dollars a gallon) it seems easier to buy new parts. I can get a condenser for around 100 dollars and an evaporator for less than that. By the time I get flush liquid and the can to hook up to my compressor I'm at about 80 to 90 dollars. I don't know. I'm up in the air on that. Hell, for the quotes I got to just throw a reman. compressor and refill at a shop I could buy an entire AC setup, so I'm still ahead of the game either way. I got the discharge/suction hose in today. BTW if you guys know a good source for the smaller Liquid line from the condenser to the evaporator let me know.