Ac cycling noise and recharge issue

[Mowgli]

I'm having some notice when my ac is cycling. It's like a clicking rotation noise. I bought a recharge can I think I may have messed up some thing. When I connected the gauge it was at 28 and after one can at 32. I used a second can and it got to 38. Now I checked this morning and it is at 30psi. Now my mistake was I was turning the can all the way upside down every 3 sec. It said rotate can so I thought all the way around but I was reading online that puts liquid into the lines. The clinking noise didn't get worse or better with the recharge

 

[doorgunner]

Can you see the sight-glass.....does it have bubbles showing in it....gauges show different readings depending on whether the A/C compressor is running or not (a/c clutch on or off)...or if there are bubbles in the system causing extra noises...I have the same problem lately..

TAIG...............That's All I Got......

 

[naford]

Pressure will change with outside temperature. What you did was put liquid into the vapor side of the compressor. You can get away with a little but not a lot. You could have hurt the compressor. Is the compressor making any noise? Is it still short cycling?

 

[adsm08]

Can you see the sight-glass.....does it have bubbles showing in it....gauges show different readings depending on whether the A/C compressor is running or not (a/c clutch on or off)...or if there are bubbles in the system causing extra noises...I have the same problem lately..

TAIG...............That's All I Got......

R134a system, no sight glass.

Pressure will change with outside temperature. What you did was put liquid into the vapor side of the compressor. You can get away with a little but not a lot. You could have hurt the compressor. Is the compressor making any noise? Is it still short cycling?

^All that and more^



I think I saw your other thread where I pointed out to you that A/C systems are not and cannot be charged accurately by pressure. They are charged by the mass of the refrigerant in the system. The absolute ONLY way to get it right is to evac the system, pull a vacuum on it, and then charge it from empty.

I also pointed out that if your compressor is making any noise other than one solid click when the clutch engages it is already damaged and while correcting the charge level may quiet it down it needs to be replaced.

Find and fix the leak, then replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and flush the remainder of the system out with A/C flush (reads as not brake cleaner, not water, not turpentine, nothing oil based Dura Kleen II A/C flush ONLY (it really is the best stuff on the market)).

That or whole-system replacement are the only options for a proper fix.

 

[doorgunner]

ads........................thanks......you tell me enough times & it'll soak in: The absolute ONLY way to get it right is to evac the system, pull a vacuum on it, and then charge it from empty.


I'm gonna e-mail that little tid-bit to my Shrink...maybe it'll work on me...


EDIT: Can you see the sight-glass.....does it have bubbles showing in it....(i forgot that I coverted....CONverted mine to R-raa 136 when I installed the system)

keep an eye on me ads.....better yet....both eyes

 

[Mowgli]

even after the two cans its only reading at about 32 psi? it is cooling semi good so how would i know if i damaged anything?

 

[Mowgli]

and what do you mean by short cycles?

 

[adsm08]

You have a leak. You need to have this air conditioning system looked at by a professional with the correct tools and knowledge to do the job correctly. The max refrigerant capacity of your system is 33 ounces. You have now added approximately 36 (Oh, over-charging the system will make it blow warm as well). You have done nothing to figure out the source of your loss nor to stop it. Your posts have also demonstrated a level of technical and mechanical skill that is below what is needed to find and correctly repair the system.


Short cycling is when the total length of time from the compressor turning on to shutting off to turning back on again is too short.

Usually a normal compressor cycle is +50 seconds on to 2 to 10 seconds off, depending on weather. If the clutch is spending almost equal amounts of time on and off or more time off than on, you have a short cycling condition which indicates low charge.

 

[LearjetMinako]

Usually a normal compressor cycle is +50 seconds on to 2 to 10 seconds off, depending on weather. If the clutch is spending almost equal amounts of time on and off or more time off than on, you have a short cycling condition which indicates low charge.

Thanks for that info. I know how to repair the A/C system on vehicles, done once or twice for every vehicle in my family. But after my recent repair, I had the short cycle time problem. I know I filled it to correct capacity according to what was on the label. I was thinking maybe the hi-pressure switch is going bad, not letting the system build pressure. I'll recheck pressures (hi & low) and might possiblely re-evac mine. Thou right now, it is doing okay, but then again, the 100+*F weather could claim another compressor. This thou, the compressor will be under warranty.

 

[adsm08]

Thanks for that info. I know how to repair the A/C system on vehicles, done once or twice for every vehicle in my family. But after my recent repair, I had the short cycle time problem. I know I filled it to correct capacity according to what was on the label. I was thinking maybe the hi-pressure switch is going bad, not letting the system build pressure. I'll recheck pressures (hi & low) and might possiblely re-evac mine. Thou right now, it is doing okay, but then again, the 100+*F weather could claim another compressor. This thou, the compressor will be under warranty.

Yeah, Ford has a big old set of charts that show where the pressures and cycle times should be for given temps and humidity levels. Those two factors can have drastic effects on performance and the pressures and cycle times.

Hotter it is, the longer the compressor should stay on. My rule of thumb is if I can drive around with the A/C on max and make the register temp get to 30 or 40 degrees below ambient (keep in mind the system is setup to never let the register temp get much below 45, usually just above 43* and best) at 40 MPH, the system is working as well as it can.

 

[LearjetMinako]

Yeah, Ford has a big old set of charts that show where the pressures and cycle times should be for given temps and humidity levels. Those two factors can have drastic effects on performance and the pressures and cycle times.

Hotter it is, the longer the compressor should stay on. My rule of thumb is if I can drive around with the A/C on max and make the register temp get to 30 or 40 degrees below ambient (keep in mind the system is setup to never let the register temp get much below 45, usually just above 43* and best) at 40 MPH, the system is working as well as it can.

I believe when I did the final temp test. I got it down to 42*F air on a 75*F day coming from the vents when idling in the driveway. It seems to work okay, but for some reason, it works better on some days than others. Its getting up to the 100's now and need the A/C working at its best. Its becuase of the intermittent problem is one of the other reason why I thinks its the hi-pressure switch. I've replaced the lo-pressure switch and got no change.

Heres a question. Does the hi-pressure switch screw hole have a valve stem to prevent the R-134a from escaping when removing the sensor? I know the lo-pressure switch does.

 

[adsm08]

Yes, there is a schrader under the switch.

 

[exbass94]

....(keep in mind the system is setup to never let the register temp get much below 45, usually just above 43* and best) at 40 MPH, the system is working as well as it can.

My vent temps are usually between 35 and 38 degrees after it's been running a while. This morning I managed to hit 32!

 

[Tominator]

My vent temps are usually between 35 and 38 degrees after it's been running a while. This morning I managed to hit 32!

LOL! How low can we go?

I had a Mitsubishi Van a long time ago with an icemaker in the console...

 

[adsm08]

My vent temps are usually between 35 and 38 degrees after it's been running a while. This morning I managed to hit 32!

The 94 or the 06? The 94 I can believe that. The 06 should hit about 43* and then you should see the temp jump about 5 degrees as the compressor kicks off.